Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
GP 3300's or 3700's >

GP 3300's or 3700's

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

GP 3300's or 3700's

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-02-2005, 10:08 AM
  #16  
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,421
Default

The 3600 are Sanyos and the 3700 are Gps. They aren't the same, and testing shows that the GPs are better with less IR. My experience anyway.
edseb is offline  
Old 05-02-2005, 11:15 AM
  #17  
Tech Apprentice
 
grymg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 90
Default

FYI - 3700's will take about 15% longer than 3300's to charge. . . remember this before your next race
grymg is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 06:34 AM
  #18  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
F. Alonso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,141
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default Re: 3600

Originally posted by crACkeD ChaSsiS
mild seven- were did u get your packs?
I race with Mild Seven and he bought the packs from Harris R/C www.harrisrc.com

Check em out... Enjoy!
F. Alonso is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 06:46 AM
  #19  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 145
Default

I saw a few people in this thread talk about dead shorting. What exactly is that?

Thanks.
briansid is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 08:18 AM
  #20  
Tech Regular
 
oreo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 287
Default Sanyo 3600's vs GP 3700

Originally posted by edseb
The 3600 are Sanyos and the 3700 are Gps. They aren't the same, and testing shows that the GPs are better with less IR. My experience anyway.
....i'v also heard , depending on how you may charge Sanyo's 3600 cells, there may be a tendency for the cells to vent; ie. shortened life span ....stick with the GP's
oreo is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 08:24 AM
  #21  
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,421
Default

Deadshorting is when you discharge all your cells down to absolute zero, instead of a predetermined low amount (usually .5-.9 amps) on a tray. Once you have them down to zero, you connect the ends of the pack with a wire (most common method) so that positive is soldered to negative and then it becomes deadshorted. Don't touch them until they are exactly at zero or you could cause a small explosion, kill the cells, etc. Once the cells are deadshorted and the wire attached, you can remove them from the tray. Do not attach the wire after they are removed, since the will naturally start to pick up some voltage out of the tray. When you are ready to charge, just unsolder the wire and charge it. People debate the time you can keep it deadshorted, but I keep them at zero for up to a week. Deadshorted packs will give you more punch since you are charging them from absolute zero and this gives you more run time on that charge which equals a longer power punch on the initial first quarter discharge during a race. Be careful though, in the long run, it will reduce the life of the batteries and adds more wear and tear, but if you want to have a subtle affect of more power, deadshort. Also, because the pack is starting at zero, sometimes chargers will get confused and will false peak in the first few minutes of charging. Just watch it and start it again or if you have a charger that locks charging in for the first few minutes, do that. Good luck.
edseb is offline  
Old 05-03-2005, 08:57 AM
  #22  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 145
Default

Thanks for the explanation.
briansid is offline  
Old 05-05-2005, 07:11 AM
  #23  
Tech Adept
 
mudpuppy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 115
Default

Carl - just curious, have you lost many cells from dead shorting?
mudpuppy is offline  
Old 05-05-2005, 02:01 PM
  #24  
Tech Elite
 
edseb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Laguna Niguel, California
Posts: 2,421
Default

Since I've been racing Offroad more lately, I prefer to take care of my cells and don't deadshort. I only deadshort when it's a big race or I really want to do well in Onroad. In Offroad those small details pretty much go unnoticed, especially since my driving isn't good enough to tell the difference. When done right, I've never lost a cell, but I don't make it a very common practise.

On another note, I recently got some more info about the GP3700s. More tests are showing higher voltage and less IR. A lot of the top drivers are switching for the IFMAR events and willl switch when ROAR clears them. Only problem is the chasis on a lot of the touring cars where space can be a problem. A lot of the manufacturers that have problem with fit are addressing this issue to accomodate. Yokomo BD, Corally RDX are making different chasis or different battery holders. So far Losi JRXS is still a problem, with no solution in site (at least none that I've seen).
edseb is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.