10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
03-04-2014, 09:24 AM
#6316
Thanks for answering Casper. I am just so bummed because I was so excited about this kit. How often are you at OCRC? I was going to head there this Saturday for practice. You think you'll be there? Maybe you can point out how I'm doing this diff wrong?
I like kits that require a bit of fine tuning because that means tolerances are tight which keeps the slack away for a while. I'm really not down on Losi or anything but this has put a bad taste in my mouth
I like kits that require a bit of fine tuning because that means tolerances are tight which keeps the slack away for a while. I'm really not down on Losi or anything but this has put a bad taste in my mouth
Are you breaking pins or what exactly is going bad? I have broken a few front CVA cross pins over the years but usually if I make sure the pinion to coupler are tight agains the bearings (you have to take the front diff out to make sure you push the pinion agains the case and make sure the coupler is all the way on) this helps with front pins breaking. Other than that I have not had many issues other than normal wear on the stock drive line.
Casper or anyone else, I have a shock question.
I have no problem getting zero rebound. My issue is the piston being pulled back up when its extended. This really came to light on my 22-4. Setup should be 19", but I can't get more than 15'. My piston goes back up 3/4 of the way.
No youtube video addresses how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston, just no rebound.
Now I know why I'm bottoming out after jumps.
Everyone, try pulling your piston down and see for yourself how far your piston travels back up. I gave a pistons to 4 different people at my track. All pistons travelled up over 1/2 way.
I hope Team Losi will make a new shock rebuild video that will address how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston while making a zero rebound shock.
AND FAST…...
I have no problem getting zero rebound. My issue is the piston being pulled back up when its extended. This really came to light on my 22-4. Setup should be 19", but I can't get more than 15'. My piston goes back up 3/4 of the way.
No youtube video addresses how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston, just no rebound.
Now I know why I'm bottoming out after jumps.
Everyone, try pulling your piston down and see for yourself how far your piston travels back up. I gave a pistons to 4 different people at my track. All pistons travelled up over 1/2 way.
I hope Team Losi will make a new shock rebuild video that will address how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston while making a zero rebound shock.
AND FAST…...
The shock will not want to the vacuum and will take in some air to balance out the shock
Assuming you are not removing too much oil in bleeding the shock (this should be done quite slowly) the vacuum should not be that bad if you stroke the shocks a few times.
Glad to offer the encouragement! This truck is so fun to drive that i like to help when I hear someone struggling.
As a tip for high high grip situations or when you have way more power then the tires can handle try turning down the current limiter in the rx8 till you notice a slight reduction in acceleration. Then go back up 1 or 2 higher on the setting. That way if you have a "heavy" throttle finger at least you are not dramatically overpowering the drivetrain. This will reduce wear on everything and reduce heat in the motor and almost always lead to smoother/lower lap times.
Since your track is going to dirt you will need to change your setup. Try Caspers latest setup on his site.
Have fun playing in the dirt.
As a tip for high high grip situations or when you have way more power then the tires can handle try turning down the current limiter in the rx8 till you notice a slight reduction in acceleration. Then go back up 1 or 2 higher on the setting. That way if you have a "heavy" throttle finger at least you are not dramatically overpowering the drivetrain. This will reduce wear on everything and reduce heat in the motor and almost always lead to smoother/lower lap times.
Since your track is going to dirt you will need to change your setup. Try Caspers latest setup on his site.
Have fun playing in the dirt.
Hello! 
I have an SCTE 2.0 and I am very happy with it!
I recently bought a Axial Exo Terra, and the shocks that came with it are pretty bad and I would like to replace them.
I tested my SCTE 2.0 shocks on it and it works perfectly.
I would like to buy the same shocks but I cannot find them on Amain, is it not possible to buy the entire shocks?
Thanks!
I have an SCTE 2.0 and I am very happy with it!
I recently bought a Axial Exo Terra, and the shocks that came with it are pretty bad and I would like to replace them.
I tested my SCTE 2.0 shocks on it and it works perfectly.
I would like to buy the same shocks but I cannot find them on Amain, is it not possible to buy the entire shocks?
Thanks!
03-04-2014, 10:20 AM
#6318
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TSR-Team-Los...item27df982dc6
I would just get a list of the parts you need from the SCTE exploded parts sheet and order the parts.
Or get this set and upgrade the caps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-TEN-SCT...item20dc7fa731
03-04-2014, 12:12 PM
#6321
Hi all,
Just built a new 2.0 and it seems like I have a lot of excessive play with the CV Driveshafts...I am able to move them back and forth a bit in all the spindle/carriers. is this normal? I have placed a washer/spacer between the bearing and the wheel hexes and it seems to take up a majority of the play. Will there be any issues running these spacers. Or is the play I am experiencing normal and just leave it as is?
Thanks in advance
Ken
Just built a new 2.0 and it seems like I have a lot of excessive play with the CV Driveshafts...I am able to move them back and forth a bit in all the spindle/carriers. is this normal? I have placed a washer/spacer between the bearing and the wheel hexes and it seems to take up a majority of the play. Will there be any issues running these spacers. Or is the play I am experiencing normal and just leave it as is?
Thanks in advance
Ken
OK so I am putting together my brand new $500 kit (and I mention price because of how ripped off I feel) and am encountering some issues. And before I rant, you should know that I have an enginerring degree, race motocross every other weekend (Transworld MX - Muscle Milk Series) and have been building kits since I was 10. What I am getting at is that I know how to building / work on anything mechanical.
1) Was assembling the diff outdrives / covers and the bearings wont slide on the. They are so tight, I had to use a bearing punch to gently tap them on to the diff halfs. I am...ok with this, as this means that the tolerances are very tight. It still should be addressed by losi.
2) DIff screws (holding the ring gear on) are a freaking joke. As previously suggested in this thread, I was careful with them. NOPEEE. No bad. I loose. 2 stripped screws and 5 hours of carefully drilling them out. I finally went and bought the HPI z449 m2.5x12 screws and what do you know...they worked perfect. BTW, I am using MIP tools. Very expensive...very good.
HEY LOSI! Why dont you quit being cheap a-holes and use good quality screws on parts that are as incredibly vital as the diffs? I dunno, just a thought.
3) I put the diff into the diff housing and sure enough, the diff binds. From what I can tell, the 2 diff housing pieces arent big enough on the flang / the bearing races are too tight. What this means is that when I use the 4 screws to secure the housing halfs together, it squeezes the bearings so tight that they bind. See below.
4) Holy freaking god the directions are horrible. How do I know whether to use a stainless or regular screw? The directions sure dont say anything. Also, PICK ONE FREAKING UNIT SYSTEM AND STICK WITH IT!! Losi goes between metric and SAE measurements and bolt sizes like every other freaking page. What is going on here guys!?!?
I hate to say it but this will most likely be my last Losi kit. I have owned upwards of 35 Associated kits and never bought losi. I am now sad that I ever strayed from Associated.
1) Was assembling the diff outdrives / covers and the bearings wont slide on the. They are so tight, I had to use a bearing punch to gently tap them on to the diff halfs. I am...ok with this, as this means that the tolerances are very tight. It still should be addressed by losi.
2) DIff screws (holding the ring gear on) are a freaking joke. As previously suggested in this thread, I was careful with them. NOPEEE. No bad. I loose. 2 stripped screws and 5 hours of carefully drilling them out. I finally went and bought the HPI z449 m2.5x12 screws and what do you know...they worked perfect. BTW, I am using MIP tools. Very expensive...very good.
HEY LOSI! Why dont you quit being cheap a-holes and use good quality screws on parts that are as incredibly vital as the diffs? I dunno, just a thought.
3) I put the diff into the diff housing and sure enough, the diff binds. From what I can tell, the 2 diff housing pieces arent big enough on the flang / the bearing races are too tight. What this means is that when I use the 4 screws to secure the housing halfs together, it squeezes the bearings so tight that they bind. See below.
4) Holy freaking god the directions are horrible. How do I know whether to use a stainless or regular screw? The directions sure dont say anything. Also, PICK ONE FREAKING UNIT SYSTEM AND STICK WITH IT!! Losi goes between metric and SAE measurements and bolt sizes like every other freaking page. What is going on here guys!?!?
I hate to say it but this will most likely be my last Losi kit. I have owned upwards of 35 Associated kits and never bought losi. I am now sad that I ever strayed from Associated.
1. We are still looking into this to see if this can be resolved properly. The bearings were initially too loose on the diff and so we tightened up the tolerances and so they got a bit tight. Most go on with a tiny bit of work but it is still work.
2. I use a powered driver and MIP tips and have yet to strip one of these screws. I run them straight in with no grease and no tapping. For those using hand tools, I always recommend grease and tapping these as these holes were also tightened up so as not to strip. I do not take being called a a-hole lightly but realize you are venting so I will just assume that is what it is. HH CS would be happy to send you new ones if you so desire.
3. I have never had an issue with the diff in the housing, in either the front or rear. If you feel there is an issue, you can surely contact HH customer service and they will get you a new one. It is possible that the bearings may not be fully seated on the diff and this could possibly cause this. When you place the screws into this system and screw it together, it aligns everything.
4. I have not heard such remarks on the instructions. As for as metric versus standard, this vehicle includes metric screws where they engineering wise were needed. I do hear you on this and this is an issue coming from when this vehicle was originated and something that we want to address in time.
As far as your AE wants...sorry to hear you feel this way. I am incredibly familiar with AE and their quality and I can say our quality is very good.
03-04-2014, 12:50 PM
#6322
Tech Adept
iTrader: (25)
OK so I am putting together my brand new $500 kit (and I mention price because of how ripped off I feel) and am encountering some issues. And before I rant, you should know that I have an enginerring degree, race motocross every other weekend (Transworld MX - Muscle Milk Series) and have been building kits since I was 10. What I am getting at is that I know how to building / work on anything mechanical.
1) Was assembling the diff outdrives / covers and the bearings wont slide on the. They are so tight, I had to use a bearing punch to gently tap them on to the diff halfs. I am...ok with this, as this means that the tolerances are very tight. It still should be addressed by losi.
2) DIff screws (holding the ring gear on) are a freaking joke. As previously suggested in this thread, I was careful with them. NOPEEE. No bad. I loose. 2 stripped screws and 5 hours of carefully drilling them out. I finally went and bought the HPI z449 m2.5x12 screws and what do you know...they worked perfect. BTW, I am using MIP tools. Very expensive...very good.
HEY LOSI! Why dont you quit being cheap a-holes and use good quality screws on parts that are as incredibly vital as the diffs? I dunno, just a thought.
3) I put the diff into the diff housing and sure enough, the diff binds. From what I can tell, the 2 diff housing pieces arent big enough on the flang / the bearing races are too tight. What this means is that when I use the 4 screws to secure the housing halfs together, it squeezes the bearings so tight that they bind. See below.
<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-9.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-8.jpg"/></a>
4) Holy freaking god the directions are horrible. How do I know whether to use a stainless or regular screw? The directions sure dont say anything. Also, PICK ONE FREAKING UNIT SYSTEM AND STICK WITH IT!! Losi goes between metric and SAE measurements and bolt sizes like every other freaking page. What is going on here guys!?!?
I hate to say it but this will most likely be my last Losi kit. I have owned upwards of 35 Associated kits and never bought losi. I am now sad that I ever strayed from Associated.
1) Was assembling the diff outdrives / covers and the bearings wont slide on the. They are so tight, I had to use a bearing punch to gently tap them on to the diff halfs. I am...ok with this, as this means that the tolerances are very tight. It still should be addressed by losi.
2) DIff screws (holding the ring gear on) are a freaking joke. As previously suggested in this thread, I was careful with them. NOPEEE. No bad. I loose. 2 stripped screws and 5 hours of carefully drilling them out. I finally went and bought the HPI z449 m2.5x12 screws and what do you know...they worked perfect. BTW, I am using MIP tools. Very expensive...very good.
HEY LOSI! Why dont you quit being cheap a-holes and use good quality screws on parts that are as incredibly vital as the diffs? I dunno, just a thought.
3) I put the diff into the diff housing and sure enough, the diff binds. From what I can tell, the 2 diff housing pieces arent big enough on the flang / the bearing races are too tight. What this means is that when I use the 4 screws to secure the housing halfs together, it squeezes the bearings so tight that they bind. See below.
<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-9.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-8.jpg"/></a>
4) Holy freaking god the directions are horrible. How do I know whether to use a stainless or regular screw? The directions sure dont say anything. Also, PICK ONE FREAKING UNIT SYSTEM AND STICK WITH IT!! Losi goes between metric and SAE measurements and bolt sizes like every other freaking page. What is going on here guys!?!?
I hate to say it but this will most likely be my last Losi kit. I have owned upwards of 35 Associated kits and never bought losi. I am now sad that I ever strayed from Associated.
03-04-2014, 01:48 PM
#6323
Hey guys when I find a diff bearing is really hard to push on I use a little fine sandpaper and just lightly sand the surface the bearing presses onto until the bearing can be squeezed on firmly by hand. The diff centres itself nicely and no binding.
You only need to remove the tiniest bit of material so take it slow.
You only need to remove the tiniest bit of material so take it slow.
03-04-2014, 01:56 PM
#6324
Interesting to hear, I'm coming from the latest Durango (Desc410v2) and the TLR was a dream to build compared to the rango... The only issue I had, was with the shrinked bottom caps, something you can find a solution for if you search the internet...
But for gearboxes, try tightening them on other kits... Most of them will bind if tightened to much.
Love my SCTE 2.0, it's a luxury SC out of the kit...
But for gearboxes, try tightening them on other kits... Most of them will bind if tightened to much.
Love my SCTE 2.0, it's a luxury SC out of the kit...
03-04-2014, 03:53 PM
#6325
Seeing that 80% of the trucks in my area are scte's there must be something to them and if all you have t complain about is a bearing and a diff case then wow! I have read horror stories in other threads before purchasing my scte and its been a work horse for me.... So here's a cheer for losi!!!
03-04-2014, 04:43 PM
#6329
03-04-2014, 04:54 PM
#6330
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I agree. this is the worse kit I have ever built, and my first Losi as well. Myself and two other guys had a similar binding issue with the front diff.. What we come to find out is that the issue is tied to your first issue, the bearings. After pressing the daylights out of them, that just gets them flush to the edge. After tapping them beyond flush the binding went away. Possibly they are not 100% true until taped further.