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Old 08-26-2013, 09:27 PM
  #5071  
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Originally Posted by hoonigantoo
they stopped selling to bashers and crashaholics.
Mine has been raced 2 times and is real bad.. if you roll the sc backwards the front wheels go positive 6 degrees real loose
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 1488rider
Mine has been raced 2 times and is real bad.. if you roll the sc backwards the front wheels go positive 6 degrees real loose
mine is 6 months old and I don't have anywhere close to that much play
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hoonigantoo
mine is 6 months old and I don't have anywhere close to that much play
its all in the steering rack
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:00 PM
  #5074  
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Originally Posted by 1488rider
its all in the steering rack
You might be missing the little bushings that the steering rack screws mount through, that would add a bunch of play.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
You might be missing the little bushings that the steering rack screws mount through, that would add a bunch of play.
it is where the Ackerman bar mounts
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:48 AM
  #5076  
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I was noticing how a friends was really loose in the front while mine was much tighter. A few races later, and mine is as loose as his. All the parts are there. The slop is mostly in the Ackerman, a little bit in each mount and it all adds up. I don't know if there is much one can do about it other than replace all the linkage parts together.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:51 AM
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There's a lot of slop at that point. Someone should really make an aftermarket ball bearing supported Ackerman arm. I have the 1.0 with the original rod ends and balls and they slop out after a few runs. I ended up replacing mine with something different. I still have the slop in the Ackerman arm and the hinge pins and such in the front end. Slop isn't necessarily bad but the amount I saw in the 1.0 was pretty ridiculous compared to the other vehicles I have owned. No need to beat this guy up for wanting his truck to be as good as possible.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:01 AM
  #5078  
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Tyler's new 2.0 is that loose too and it hasn't been races yet. And the bushings are in it. It does go way toeed in if you pull it back wards. Made tought to get toe set on it. I just thought it was ours that was that way.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyJones
Tyler's new 2.0 is that loose too and it hasn't been races yet. And the bushings are in it. It does go way toeed in if you pull it back wards. Made tought to get toe set on it. I just thought it was ours that was that way.
A - loose is fast. In general these trucks get better with some slop. I wouldn't worry about it.

B - check the pivot balls in the ball ends. I've run my truck hard since it came out in March and its only about ready for new pivot balls. I will only replace these when the ball is so worn it will not stay in the plastic rod end.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Grandturk
A - loose is fast. In general these trucks get better with some slop. I wouldn't worry about it.

B - check the pivot balls in the ball ends. I've run my truck hard since it came out in March and its only about ready for new pivot balls. I will only replace these when the ball is so worn it will not stay in the plastic rod end.
It's funny you bring that up. I was just changing the rodends on my truck just now. I used the old balls and just replaced the plastic (#LOSB4023 I think) and there is twice as much slop in it now than there was with the old ones.
Casper or Ryan, what part number do I need? These will not work. The ones that came with the truck were a lot better when first assembled. The balls are not bad because some are still ok in the old plastic rodends.
Thanks
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
It's funny you bring that up. I was just changing the rodends on my truck just now. I used the old balls and just replaced the plastic (#LOSB4023 I think) and there is twice as much slop in it now than there was with the old ones.
Casper or Ryan, what part number do I need? These will not work. The ones that came with the truck were a lot better when first assembled. The balls are not bad because some are still ok in the old plastic rodends.
Thanks
Definitely switch pivot balls and rod ends at the same time. You don't want to half ass it.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:52 AM
  #5082  
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
It's funny you bring that up. I was just changing the rodends on my truck just now. I used the old balls and just replaced the plastic (#LOSB4023 I think) and there is twice as much slop in it now than there was with the old ones.
Casper or Ryan, what part number do I need? These will not work. The ones that came with the truck were a lot better when first assembled. The balls are not bad because some are still ok in the old plastic rodends.
Thanks
The kit came with the upgrade balls.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB2187

You want to use these as they last a lot longer then the SCTE 1.0 stock balls did.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:08 AM
  #5083  
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I totally understand but the old hard anodized balls fit tighter in the old plastic rod ends then the new plastic rodends.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
I totally understand but the old hard anodized balls fit tighter in the old plastic rod ends then the new plastic rodends.
I don't think there's a difference in the balls and ends. The ends are the same and the balls are the same as have been available from the 1.0

Edit - I meant the upgrade hard ano balls are the same

No?
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:20 PM
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I may be wrong as well but I don't believe the plastics were ever changed on the Ten series.
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