Jimmyd

black knight

Hi there, are you using the grp or graphite version of the corally f-1?

jimmyd

black-knight

I run the GRP version, but one of my friends has the Graphite ver, the Graphite is stiffer but there is litte o rack performance difference.

wiley

Hi
Still waiting for my corally to arrive...have read all threads in this forum and so far i see that i need to do the split top mod....anymore tips on running c4.1 pls reply here...i need all the tips here....also read the tips on corally site...will check whether the car has the mod done..and will do it when it arrives...by the way i saw that the rear upright of C4 on the corally site has serpent logo to it....does it mean that c4 is using some serpent parts???how bout the shock??can i buy the metal shock body for the impulse to replace the plastic ones on c4...maybe i'll just wait for the kit to arrive and will bring it to LHS to compare.....thanks guys this thread is resourceful

black-knight

The C4/4.1 was developed in partnership with Serpent, hence the Serpent Impulse suspension. Serpent agreed not to enter into the electric scene and Corally would not enter the Nitro scene. After a while though the Xray turned up which is a Hudy/Serpent product anyway....

The split top deck is not necessary, and should be used as just another tuning aid, make sure you don't chop up your only top deck.

The shocks are Serpent so the alloy shock bodies can be used, you can purchase them from Corally or Serpent.

Jimmyd

Thanks for the reply

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

wiley: what BK said is exactly right. Especially about the top deck. I don't run the split top deck, and the car handles just fine and has plenty o' traction. And the aluminum shock bodies aren't really neccesary. The car is heavy enough as is, the aluminum bodies will only ad to this. If their in good shape stick with the composite bodies. Take the money you were going to spend on those and grab yourself the front transponder mount(if it doesn't already have one on the one your getting) or the full round front and rear axles(again, if it doesn't already have them) or an extra upper deck so that you can try the split upper deck.

Heres some other tips:

1. Pick up some extra rear hinge pins. How many pairs you get depends on what your track uses for borders. If they use fire hose or something else that gives way, then you can probably ignore this. On the other hand if they use PVC or 2X4 then you might want to pick up at least a couple of pair.

2. If you notice that the rear end starts coming around even though the car had been handling fine previously, check the rear hinge pins. They may not look bent at first, but remove the rear shock and do the suspension drop test. If it doesn't drop under its own weight, you've got a bent pin.

3. Forget whatever you might know about setting up other TC's, the C4.1 likes to have the front end set up softer than the rear. I know your new to the electric TC world, but trust me, this is unusual. But thats what the 4.1 likes.

4. DON'T LOSE THE CAPS THAT GO OVER THE UNIVERSAL PINS. You have probably seen this said before if you have read all the post in this thread, but it cant be said enough. In fact, order some extras just to be sure! I think that if you lose one, and you need a replacement in a pinch, a section of the tube that holds the ink in ball point pins will work.

5. Make sure the washers that go under the wheel screws still have their "cone" shape. This is important, that cone shape is what holds the screws from backing out. If they have lost their cone shape, order some more....in a hurry!

I cant think of anything else right now, but that should get you started off on the right foot.

wiley

hi
thanks for all the tips and info!
obviously i need a lot of hinge pins spares coz the track is made up of 2x4 and i'm a bad driver......softer front/hard rears...this is interesting...i really wanna feel what its like to have a softer front...so far i have always used softer rear or same tension rate for both front/rear.......by the way still waiting for the car to arrive...so i dont really know what the cone washer and the caps is like....will keep a note of the info
serpent parts are really expensive here....not sure bout corally
thanks a lot
really appreciate all the replies

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

wiley: with 2x4 for borders, you definitely need extra pins. At least for the rear. I have never damaged the front pins so I can't say for sure whether you need extras of those or not.

Just remember, no matter how odd it sounds, "soft front/firm rear" It pretty much plays out to orange front/white rear in the spring department. And I usually go with the same oil and piston hole combo for the front and rear. Now if you have great traction their you maybe can move up to white front/yellow rear. OR if you just have that mad-crazy-amazing-unbelievable-must be on new ozite carpet, type of traction then you may be able to use yellow/front and rear. But its rare to get that kind of traction unless you run foam tires on good carpet.

wiley

just got my car...will reassemble it ...and hook the electronics(will counter a lot of probs here coz this is the first electric)...and will have a lot of questions for u guys
thanks

black-knight

So are you still going to race Nitro???

black-knight

Some pics of my freshly bodied C4.1. Body is a Protoform Volvo S60, painted by a friend of mine who goes by the name of Thunder (not the Orion dude!).

Also did this to test my friends Sony Mavica digital camera. BTW: I'm not good at taking photos.



and



and my Corally G3 12th scale



all powerd by Corally S3K HV's

wiley

maybe....maybe not...i'll see how i like electric...

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Alright! No Stratus body
Nice- How much does that camera go for? Took a really clear close up.
And how are the HV's working out for you?

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Black-Knight: Nice pics. I see you mount your reciever on the servo, any particular reason? To make the synthesized reciever easier to adjust perhapes? I think when I get my synthesized reciever, I will mount it right where I have my XXL currently(next to the speed control). I'm sure I'll still be able to adjust it.

KnightShift

Hi all! I'm new to this forum and also new to the hobby! (been in for about 2 weeks now)

I recently bought a used Corally C4 from a guy at my local indoor carpet track and thought I'd post a picture of it...



You can see the BIG version here...

My Corally C4, The BIG picture

Just some questions...

1st... I know that my Corally is a C4, but does it looks like a version other than the C4? In the manual I got with the car, the chassis looks different than what's on the car (the batteries are exactly opposite in the manual, while on the car the batteries are staggered front to back...)

2nd... besides this forum and CorallyUSA.com, are there any other good resources for Corally owners??

I guess that's it for now...

Thanks!!

-KS