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Old 04-18-2017, 10:37 PM
  #1411  
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Also been using mine a fair bit too.
I have set front and rear camber to 0 degrees as it chews out the inside of the tyres too easily, havn't ran it since though, will tomorrow.

I noticed the front has a lot of camber gain, in the region of 4.5 degrees from memory.
Probably worth while messing with roll centres.

Still running the long shock rod ends too, I might try the shorter ones but seems nicely stable at 18mm ride height.

I've always been an off road kinda person when it comes to RC, on road never really interested me much (I really like on road full size racing though).
But this kit still manages to entertain me and it is fun to take it 'off road', when I remember I can that is.

Have handed to controller to my mates to have a go, and they're pretty chuffed with it too.
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:13 PM
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Indeed the ring of death seemed to happen to me quite often. I think I went through 5 or 6 sets of cheap eBay tires in matter of months. I am not sure what I did to have it stop or slow down. Perhaps the TC arm conversion I did helped reduce inner tire wear. Maybe the parts I got are 4 degree caster instead of 6? Unknown. I did give a serious go at setting up the suspension properly to have all 4 corners' preloads match up left and right. After months of tinkering I have it set up quite nice. And handling very well. I even bought a camber gauge and set my car up with unmounted rims so the inconsistencies in poorly mounted rubber don't mess up my settings.

I think when I was younger the offroad really appealed to me. I had 2 rc10s. What was ironic is that I ended up driving those cars on the street in front of my house more often than offroad with buddies. And so when I came back to RC 20 years later, on road made more sense. But not too on road. I think every xv-01 owner understands that this vehicle is special. My TA05 is strictly cleanly paved streets and lots. It's not very versatile. Where the xv-01 is pretty much "show me how bad the pavement can get, I'll give it a go!"

I love giving the suspension a good beating from time to time.

Speaking of which the CVAs aren't a bad shock. It's really just the pistons that are inferior. If you can find TRF or the Yeah Racing pistons, you'll be much better off. The only thing that the CVAs are missing then is the fine tuned adjustability of threaded shock collars. This i found to be very useful when setting up the car. A full turn would be equivalent to a 1mm spring collar shim. Once I got over needing to have identical left and right number of shims is when my car started handling better. Preloads left and right are almost never identical for this car.

Flex.

Originally Posted by Shimmy
Also been using mine a fair bit too.
I have set front and rear camber to 0 degrees as it chews out the inside of the tyres too easily, havn't ran it since though, will tomorrow.

I've always been an off road kinda person when it comes to RC, on road never really interested me much (I really like on road full size racing though).
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:46 PM
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I think you might be onto something about the TC bits reducing the "ring of death".
By looking at it, I think there's a considerable amount of positive scrub radius which may help explain why the front wears quicker and worse than the rear.

I've been rotating my tyres front to rear too, trying to make them last longer.

I've had maybe 20 or so packs through my XV now, the Tamiya blocks were gone in about 17, I didn't realise how long they did actually last until I thought about it.
With less camber and maybe camber gain, I'm hoping they'll last longer.

I'm only going to buy cheap tyres anyway, I'm not racing it or anything.

When I was a young kid, I wanted to get an on-road RC but my parent's couldn't really afford to, but when I was able to buy things for myself, I got a Stadium Truck (Losi Desert Truck, when they first came out about nearly 10 years ago I think).
Since then it's all been off road, more stadium trucks, 2wd buggies, truggies.
Mostly for racing, as I pretty much stopped bashing when I started racing.

Suspension setup has always been an interest of mine also, although it can be a bit overwhelming at times with how much is adjustable and what does what.
I probably enjoyed it as much, or more than the racing itself.
But as with all other "use it or lose it" things, my memory of it isn't as it used to be.

I think the XV-01 chassis is somthing that'll always be a compromise and be very difficult to consistently get balanced and de-tweaked.

Yeah, the CVA's aren't terrible but not great.
Pistons are their biggest downside.
I think I will still try those CC-01 alloy shocks, until I manage to find something better anyway.

I have put the single hole pistons in the front though with the kit shock oil.
It's a little better and worse though, it dampens better but I think it packs up a bit too hard.
I suspect a lighter oil will be a bit better.
I think I have some 40 weight I can try.
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Old 04-20-2017, 12:34 AM
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Claimed my first broken part.
Front drive cup on the wheel side.
Looks to have worn out, got too thin then broke.
I've broken them on other RC's or worn them out but nothing like this.

Oh well, CV's were on the list to upgrade.
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:45 AM
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Had my first breakage as well..! i stripped the pin slot for the idler gear driving the rear belt in the front gearbox. very odd and required taking apart most of the font end it access.
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Old 04-20-2017, 01:24 PM
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Ring of death? You mean the tread is wearing unevenly? You adjust that by changing the camber, then you compensate for changes in the handling by tweaking the spring preload and the swaybars.

EDIT: Also, move the steering assembly to the rear of the two available positions; this will give the steering more Ackermann so the inside wheel turns more sharply. That should help reduce tire wear.

Last edited by fyrstormer; 04-20-2017 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePanda
Had my first breakage as well..! i stripped the pin slot for the idler gear driving the rear belt in the front gearbox. very odd and required taking apart most of the font end it access.
An annoying one for sure.
I just pulled mine down to check over and redo the diffs, all looks pretty good so far.

The front uni setup just can't handle any real power it seems.




Originally Posted by fyrstormer
Ring of death? You mean the tread is wearing unevenly? You adjust that by changing the camber, then you compensate for changes in the handling by tweaking the spring preload and the swaybars.

EDIT: Also, move the steering assembly to the rear of the two available positions; this will give the steering more Ackermann so the inside wheel turns more sharply. That should help reduce tire wear.
Yes, the tyres wearing unevenly.
I have done just that, and will be getting swaybars in my parts order.

I considered doing changing the ackermann, I'll give it a go with the changes I have done already, might do the change after a few packs.
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Old 04-28-2017, 02:32 AM
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Parts arrived!
So I did end up getting the GF-01 Alloy shocks (54670), and they fit just fine with the long damper towers.
It would be perfect if the shock and body were about 3mm longer over all but they'll still do the job.
They are 72mm long with the long rod end.
So if you still want to run it slammed to the ground with the short rod ends, that shouldn't be an issue.

I have 50w in the front and 35w in the rear, with the white 3 hole pistons and TRF201 front shock springs.
Seems ok, but is over damped, the front should probably have around 35w max.

Also got the CVs in place, a 67t 48p spur and the roll bar set.
Not going to fit the roll bars until after I run it with the new shocks.


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Old 04-28-2017, 05:37 AM
  #1419  
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Agreed the front damper oil doesn't need to be too high. I tried 70wt and 3 hole pistons before, much to stiff. I ended up with 40 3 hole which seems pretty good front and rear. The rear springs I've found just need to be 1 or 2 levels of stiffness lighter than the front.

The shocks look pretty good! When you do end up getting the sway bar on, you'll need some collars as they don't include them in the kit. Secondly the rear sway doesn't need to be too stiff (use the lightest or none) as it makes the rear end slide out quite very easily if it is.

Happy to see the Xv-01 getting upgrades!
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:03 AM
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Yup, I agree.
I'll change the oils soon enough.

Yeah, I'm quite happy with how the shocks fit and all.
They also allow the chassis to bottom out first too.

Didn't know about the collars for the swaybar though, I'll figure something out.

I was already planing on running the lightest rear sway bar.

Yeah, I"m quite happy with the XV-01 so far I never expected to enjoy an on road chassis so much.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:13 PM
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I very much agree with your sentiment. Coming from offroad and big suspension and going to subtle tweaks in on-road cars, the turning ability is far superior. At least with 4wd touring car Vs 2wd buggies. The tuning nature for handling, camber and tie rod positioning to affect camber gain and roll center of on road cars makes me have a greater appreciation for the real thing. I love how the Xv-01 handles compared to my TA05. The sway bars help quite a bit. I think learning how to tune on road suspension is my greatest take away from this hobby. It directly translates to real cars. Especially with a front mount motor RC. I have my front springs very firm, tamiya whites and blues in the rear. It's almost perfect. I am running about 10mm ride height with standard touring car wheels.

Originally Posted by Shimmy
Yeah, I"m quite happy with the XV-01 so far I never expected to enjoy an on road chassis so much.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:39 PM
  #1422  
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Default Stadium Blitzer XV-01



Here it is. The Stadium Blitzer body on the xv-01. Basically what the XV-01T should have been. It still has shortish travel dampers. But because of the TC arm conversion and longer damper ends, it makes for a decent amount of travel. Even with 90mm tires it can still bottom out and a couple mm more.

The handling is very much like before, excellent, but with a bit of floatiness because of the cushion​ of the tires. However, after the tires warm up it's possible to roll this high center of gravity machine. It handles better and more predictable than the same big tire setup on my TA05. I think it has to do with the front mount motor weighting and the xv-01 being a little heavier and having more suspension.

The slipper clutch is so key. Pulling out of corners it really needs a little slip to smooth out transitional throttle stabbings. But even with the slipper stopping from high-speed (40+mph easy) it can nose dive and occasionally cause the dreaded belt clicking. That being said I've had my car for over a year with the same belt (upgraded one). And I have a little more tensioning available.

Anyway. This truck incarnation of the xv-01 is so real. I love the fat tires.
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Old 05-01-2017, 06:45 AM
  #1423  
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Originally Posted by 4roller
I very much agree with your sentiment. Coming from offroad and big suspension and going to subtle tweaks in on-road cars, the turning ability is far superior. At least with 4wd touring car Vs 2wd buggies. The tuning nature for handling, camber and tie rod positioning to affect camber gain and roll center of on road cars makes me have a greater appreciation for the real thing. I love how the Xv-01 handles compared to my TA05. The sway bars help quite a bit. I think learning how to tune on road suspension is my greatest take away from this hobby. It directly translates to real cars. Especially with a front mount motor RC. I have my front springs very firm, tamiya whites and blues in the rear. It's almost perfect. I am running about 10mm ride height with standard touring car wheels.
I'm finding the XV still lacks in the tuning/setup area, it doesn't have much room for change.
Both front and rear only have roll centre on the bulkhead, can't change link length.
Without the roll bar on the rear, you could maybe have link length and height on the hub (with a lot of spacers it seems).
Squat, front and rear seems adjustable by use of shims.

I quite enjoyed learning setups with the buggies and seeing what effected what and how.

That aside I wouldn't mind getting a more proper on road chassis to fiddle with.
I really like the look of the TA07, but I hope it doesn't use the same plastic as the XV-01, I find it's too soft, flexible and prone for stripping.


I have changed the shock oil to 30 front and 25 rear, which I think is ball park area.
I also think the TRF201 springs are all too soft, they may be ok for the rear but not the front.
So I'll be ordering the AE b4 front spring set some time soon.
Along with an alloy front suspension holder (the single piece one), as I broke 2 plastic ones today (I broke the bumper, so the whole impact goes through the arm and into that holder).

I'm running around 16mm ride height.

I also need to get myself some decent tyres, I've been using hobbyking ones and they provide very little grip on a cold surface, to the point it just spins and slides.

I added the roll bars today too, soft in both front and rear.
I might put the medium in front to try and shift some grip to the rear.
But it solved the lifting wheel issue.

The Stadium Blitzer body looks pretty cool on it, better than the XV-01T they made.
I reckon it would respond much better with a TC setup though, would be very easy to get the CoG way too high.
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:35 AM
  #1424  
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So I had another run today.
Changed a couple of things too.

Got it to a point where it's more forgiving, turns better and slides more predictably when I want it to.
That's on those hobbyking tyres too.

I must say Tamiya did a fine job of making the front sway bar difficult to change out.

I think I still need stiffer springs and maybe different shock pistons, the 3 hole ones don't pack up much at all.
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Old 05-05-2017, 06:29 PM
  #1425  
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so I'm finding the limit of what this chassis is capable of motor wise... and it comes in the form of a castle 1406 5700. Its tons of fun, but In just 3 runs I have broken a suspension hanger, a gear in the gearbox, bent a turnbuckle, and stripped the diff internals. Im thinking of getting the available slipper or maybe changing out the motor. I don't drive the car too hard, but with so much power its very easy to take the occasion tumble.

it could really use a set of roll bars too with the soft suspension.

even with its little foibles it still puts a smile on my face every time i drive it though
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