Motor - magnetic field center?
#1
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Motor - magnetic field center?
I hear terms bandied about where builders "center the armature" in the can's magnetic field.
Can someone tell me how you can tell when or if your arm is centered properly?
Can someone tell me how you can tell when or if your arm is centered properly?
#3
For stock motors (bushings) I would suggest you shim both ends until the arm rests in the field center and there is less than a millimeter of space that it can travel outside of the center either way. The closer the better, without being snug. I also recommend using at least one teflon shim at each end to provide the least amount of friction when the arm moves (due to cornering forces) and causes the shims to rub against the bushings.
For mod motors (bearings) you can shim it snug but not tight. Most of todays high-end motors come with o-rings that fit the arm snug, but beware that the arm may be pushed ouside of the field with o-rings.
For mod motors (bearings) you can shim it snug but not tight. Most of todays high-end motors come with o-rings that fit the arm snug, but beware that the arm may be pushed ouside of the field with o-rings.
#5
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Originally Posted by MikeXray
what if your motor wants to pull towards the pinion side always? I have a co27 that was only run once, it was overgeared at first, but I fixed that. Do the magnets need to be rezapped?
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2004
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Long winded reply
i`m following you John
shimming in 27`s with bushing`s ;;
take shims out both ends put arm back in ,endbell on & fasten the screws down as the timing ring comes up to clamp endbell down the magnetic field changes due to the metal timing ring ,ping the arm around (spin it,make sure arm is free in bushings ) then add shims till there is a nats play either end of arm,allways use phenolic washer on comm end
if you just put endbell on can by finger pressure this gives you a false reading,
Note;;when power is applied to motor the arm will move one-way or the other any way ie;;spool up it could push against endbell,,off power it will push against can end or vica versa,till it`s settled then sits in middle (which is very rare coz we are all ways on or off power
i use nickle shims ,since the magnets don`t mess with them
there are a couple of very fast 27 drivers over here that don`t use shims atall & the arm floats around like a Pr@~k in a bucket & do very well
HTH
Disclaimer
this does not mean i`m right ,it` works for me just passing Good info
shimming in 27`s with bushing`s ;;
take shims out both ends put arm back in ,endbell on & fasten the screws down as the timing ring comes up to clamp endbell down the magnetic field changes due to the metal timing ring ,ping the arm around (spin it,make sure arm is free in bushings ) then add shims till there is a nats play either end of arm,allways use phenolic washer on comm end
if you just put endbell on can by finger pressure this gives you a false reading,
Note;;when power is applied to motor the arm will move one-way or the other any way ie;;spool up it could push against endbell,,off power it will push against can end or vica versa,till it`s settled then sits in middle (which is very rare coz we are all ways on or off power
i use nickle shims ,since the magnets don`t mess with them
there are a couple of very fast 27 drivers over here that don`t use shims atall & the arm floats around like a Pr@~k in a bucket & do very well
HTH
Disclaimer
this does not mean i`m right ,it` works for me just passing Good info