stocker

iTrader: (2)

Because of the "motor protector bar" the range of movement back and forth of the brushless motor is more limited than brushed. Anyone have any idea what would be the max number of teeth for a brushless motor to fit? Right now I am on 90/44 for 64 pitch, and the motor is somewhere in the middle.

Is a bigger spur/pinion # better, as the "angle" between teeth is less acute?

rctouringracer

iTrader: (5)

I had no problems with fitment using a Novak 13.5 SS bl motor with 90t spur & 51t pinion, all 64 pitch.

DRAG_ON

I used 48p, 69T xenon spurs and 31 Kawada pinion it gives me 4.5 something FDR i use GTB fit without any problems

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

I've run up to a 108 without it protruding from the bottom of the chassis. Also you are incorrect in your assumption that 13.5 is = to a 27T stock. That would be a 17.5. A 13.5 is closer to a 19T.

RielTime Racing

That's cool. I thought a 10.5 brushless was equal to 19 turn brushed.

I haven't been at the RC thing for very long, but am a quick learner.

SpeedKills25

Hey guy's. Im new to on road cars and have just recently built the Tamiya Ta-05 IFS , which i think is a great car in my opinion. I had a few practice laps on the track that i plan on racing at. My only concern was how the car handled coming out of the corners. The car likes to slide out into a 180 degree spin. I was running an 11T cobalt 2 which i plan on switching to something a lil more mild. Is my problem with the car sliding out have to do with too much power or should i change my settings for the track. I plan on making this car capable of hanging with some of the higher ends sedans, because i believe it has the ability to do so. Im sure there are some set ups through out the thread but if somebody would like to reiterate a few things i would greatly appreciate it as always. Thanks. A.J.

rctouringracer

iTrader: (5)

It's all about set up!
If you use the factory setting the car has tendency to be little loose in the rear with some understeer.
Fun for bashing but not for racing....
There are several set-up's on this thread as well as at least one on the Tamiya website that I know of. But remember those are someone's personal settings & may not suite your personal driving style.

05forfun

iTrader: (81)

Are you running original tires? If so, try racing tires, they will give your much better grip. you might also want to try a little lower gear ratio(bigger pinion), higher ratio gives the car more torque when you turn on the gas, then the car will spin if the car doesn't have enough grip. If spin only happened on left turn for example, you need to check some mechanical parts like drive shaft, hub or wheel alignment.

Minami

iTrader: (5)

if you have a ball diff on your rear, try loosening them up a lil bit.


there's a thread for the IFS btw..

SpeedKills25

Hey thanks a lot once again from all you guys with your helpful information. I think eventually i will have the car tweaked correctly for the track i plan on running on. One thing that i noticed tonite while tinkering with my car is that while having the trigger squeezed and the wheel turned all the way to either the right or left, i am getting an awful sound. Has anyone experienced this. The whole front steering unit along with the suspension arms vibrate quite violently. I hope to sort this problem out before i go to the track and embarass myself for the first time. Any suggestions guys? Thanks. A.J.

sosidge

Is yours a standard IFS? The problem in that case is the driveshafts - get the UJ's.

SpeedKills25

Yeah my car is the IFS version which is bone stock at the moment. I dont plan on hopping it up excessively but i will get the parts that i need in order to compete. I dont wanna get embarassed out on the track with some stupid problem. This will be my first time getting into any type of racing. I mainly bash but i figured i would give the on road scene a try for the winter. Any suggestions for necessary hop ups? Thanks.

stocker

iTrader: (2)

I thought a 13.5 is like a 23T? 10.5 is like 19T?

mok

iTrader: (9)

There is a difference between whats been approved as equivalents and what a lot of people believe the equivalents to be.

This formula works for me though...

Brushed Turns / 2 = x
x + 2 = Equivalent Brushless Wind

27T - (27/2)+2 = 15 (15.5T)
23T - (23/2)+2 = 13.5 (13.5T
19T - (19/2)+2 = 11.5 (10.5T)
15T - (15/2)+2 = 9 (9.5T)
07T - (7/2)+2 = 5.5 (5.5T)

But in terms of what has been approved..

27T = 17.5T ... some say these are too slow compared to brushed, probably because a 15.5T brushless would be more suited
19T = 10.5T

Just my 2 cents :P

-Mark

hpisims

iTrader: (10)

I would start with taking some droop out of the front. Also look online for a pro driver setup and copy it to your setup then you should be real close maybe just some fine tuning for your track and your set.