DRAG_ON

I race there in mojebing road bayswater WARCMCC track in year 1998-2000 loves that track----what rubber tires for winter to run with TA05 ? just loves the sweeper and "S"es

mok

iTrader: (9)

If you havent found these yet...

PRECC - http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...-car-club.html
BAYSWATER (WCMRC) - http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...ad-racing.html

PRECC and Bayswater are pretty much the two extreme ends of gearing. If you're talking 17.5, I think you need to be in the low 4s for Bayswater and low-mid 3s for PRECC, but I've never run that motor at either location!

I'd ask this same question in the "WA Onroad" thread (which is where stuff about Bayswater gets talked about) as you'll find some guys who have run them at one or both tracks. For Bayswater "Yah" or "Flight_Boy" will be good, but not necessarily have much knowledge of PRECC. Maybe "WAOscar" will have some knowledge of PRECC for 17.5s

Here's what I can comment on..

Note that my preferred ratios for these are somewhere in this range, different setups/tyres/weather/motor timing or esc settings etc would impact on what is run (also class requirements like 5 cell, 6 cell / lipo).

LRP 13.5 (original bonded rotor) - PRECC - 5.6-6.0
LRP 13.5 (as above) - Bayswater - 4.2-5.0 (havent run this myself yet)
LRP 3.5 - PRECC - 11.4-12
LRP 3.5 - Bayswater - 8.8-9.4
Speed Passion 3.5 - PRECC - 12-12.6
Speed Passion 3.5 - Bayswater - 10.2-10.9

There are more motors, but mainly stock 27 turn brushed which i havent raced for a while and cant remember what I used (think they were somewhere in the 9.2-9.8 range for PRECC).

Hope that helps for ballpark ratios!
(you'll definately get a better response in the WA Onroad thread)

-Mark

mok

iTrader: (9)

I'd say Sorex 36s are your best all round tyre for Bayswater in terms of grip and lifespan. On a cooler day, 36s might be a little hard and 32s would be appropriate. On a warmer day, you might like 40s. Each to their own, but I think if you used 36s all the time you'd have the best average grip level across the temp ranges. I liked using 28s, but lifespan was crap and sometimes was a little greasy on the warmer days.

-Mark

TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

OK thanks.

I'm positive I have more than 1.5 mm droop. We were all focusing strictly on the downstop setting alone, and not the resulting droop amount after lowering the ride height to 5.5 mm.

I guess I need to realize that a particular downstop setting alone doesn't mean anything -- it's the resulting droop amount with a given downstop setting and ride height that is critical ?

Thx again.

mok

iTrader: (9)

exactly

Mash13

The only mods I had to do where with the battery hold down bar (Standard plastic one) I had to dremel off the underside "cell bumps" only because I wanted the nice looking side up though and will only be using lipo's also I had to dremel out a little section so that the battery plug was able to be connected.
Hope this helps

Also guys, if you look at the far right pics of the car you can see the right front wheel has heaps more toe out than the left front. I have triple measured all the poxy turnbuckles and they are pretty close to being exactly the same (within a few .'s of a mm) What can I do to get rid of this? I have ordered the alloy steering assembly with bearings to replace the plastic one as it has heaps of play. Should I just adjust the turnbuckles to eye and forget about the measurements?

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I'd be slappin some universals in that thing, I think the stock IFS kits still use dicky dog bones.... *ouch!*

As for tyres, I have been running Jaco Rubberz Blue and they seem to hook up ok. I'd look at a Mazda 6 shell as well, you'll find that the stock shell doesn't handle too well, and yes it makes a difference! I've been persisting lately with a Honda Accord shell and handling wise it's just been way off everyone else.

mok

iTrader: (9)

you need to make sure that both steering links (turnbuckles) are the same, this will cause uneven steering left/right if they are different lengths.

what is causing the wheels to turn to the right like that is the link from the servo to the steering rack.. adjust this shorter and it will turn the wheels to the left (which is what you need)

-Mark

TwoTone

iTrader: (12)

Here's what I just got int the mail today. Works really nice not too pricey.


at Tower for $65.

It's been a long time since I raced, but I just got back into the hobby and in my opinion, the best way to improve you driving is to make sure you have consistent setups.

stocker

iTrader: (2)

It helps, thanks!

Mash13

OK cool I will pull off all the turnbuckles and set them as the manual suggests (they are pretty close anyway) I did have a bit of trouble getting the servo saver to the "nuetral" position. what sort of saver setup do you guys run?

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I run a Kimbrough Servo Saver in mine, I find the standard Tamiya ones are pretty weak, even their "High Torque" servo savers don't seem to be much better.

mok

iTrader: (9)

nothing wrong with the tamiya high torque servo savers in my books..
not once have i had an issue with these, but just incase i have a spare and also a kimbrough one :P

Mash13

I have been looking at uni's on fleabay and they where cheap ($15 pair) but where a no name brand. I had to pack out the font left axle cup with foam to stop the dog bone from poppin out.

I am suprised that it actually runs better without the shell lol. i'll get a mazda 6 next time home and some better tires.

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

The generic universals have a fairly weak crossjoint, IMO better to get the Tamiya ones straight up, they are rebuildable (ie just replace the cross joints and relube)