Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
#7906
Tech Initiate
Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
#7907
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
#7908
Tech Initiate
#7909
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
A lot classier than trying to unscrew it with a set of needle-nose pliers, that's for sure.
#7910
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
Not sure which screw it is but what I've done in the past that worked was remove all the other screws then rotate the plate to loosen the stuck screw. After it loosened up it was easy to unscrew even stripped
#7912
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
It handles as well as my TA05 did. I learned A LOT about set up because the TA05 reacts to tuning so well. So now the grand experiment begins, to see if I can apply all that to a car that has more tuning options.
So far, I'm still finishing second to Core Creations, so that goes to prove that just changing cars wont make you faster!
So far, I'm still finishing second to Core Creations, so that goes to prove that just changing cars wont make you faster!
#7915
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
It handles as well as my TA05 did. I learned A LOT about set up because the TA05 reacts to tuning so well. So now the grand experiment begins, to see if I can apply all that to a car that has more tuning options.
So far, I'm still finishing second to Core Creations, so that goes to prove that just changing cars wont make you faster!
So far, I'm still finishing second to Core Creations, so that goes to prove that just changing cars wont make you faster!
#7916
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
all screwed up!
Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
The screw will either loosen up and come right out or you can use an easyout to get it to come out the rest of the way! Last, did you try to remove all the screws on the upper deck so you can rotate the upper deck itself to loosen the screw! I never tried the soldering trick, I wonder if that works with titanium screws also?
Just my 2$
#7917
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Drill a hole in the hex that's no larger than the minor diameter of 3mm screw!
The screw will either loosen up and come right out or you can use an easyout to get it to come out the rest of the way! Last, did you try to remove all the screws on the upper deck so you can rotate the upper deck itself to loosen the screw! I never tried the soldering trick, I wonder if that works with titanium screws also?
Just my 2$
The screw will either loosen up and come right out or you can use an easyout to get it to come out the rest of the way! Last, did you try to remove all the screws on the upper deck so you can rotate the upper deck itself to loosen the screw! I never tried the soldering trick, I wonder if that works with titanium screws also?
Just my 2$
#7918
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
anyone still know where to order Kawada (TUB501) or 3racing CF chassis? Checked everywhere - from eBay to dinball. I emailed RC-champ and they only had the Flip (?) blue CF chassis. I guess with the MS coming out, no one is carrying any cf chassis at all. I spent almost $250 in hop-ups from a bonestock TA05, and if I do plan to sell it there is absolutely no way I'm getting back for even just the hop ups (my chassis is in MINT condition as I only played with it once.) So i've decided keep going for the whole 9 yards.
also, I posted on the last page if anyone knew what Tech Racing's "slipper diff" does? My car is being setup for drift on ABS tires - TR states its for drifting so I was curious as to what it does.
any help is greatly appreciated
also, I posted on the last page if anyone knew what Tech Racing's "slipper diff" does? My car is being setup for drift on ABS tires - TR states its for drifting so I was curious as to what it does.
any help is greatly appreciated
This is the cheapest I found and I bought 1 myself 2-3 months ago.
#7919
Tech Initiate
it seems it was actually my allen keys that were stripped and not the screw. i thought it was a bit strange that i stripped a titanium screw. thanks for the help though, i was able to remove another stripped screw from a nitro engine mount
#7920
I just noticed a major problem with my rear suspension. The A-arms are coming in contact with the inside of the rim presumably during heavy cornering. This may be why I would get the tail coming out really quickly sometimes. I haven't been able to dial it out and if the rim is "locking up" on the arm, then it would explain the erratic performance.
I currently have 1 degree rear camber and changing it to about 3 will eliminate this problem but I don't really want to have to do that. The rim itself may be suspect; it feels a little loser than the stock Tamiya dish wheels. I use the premount CS27/RP30's because they are the spec tire in my club series.
You'll see in the attached pictures that it's actually chewed out a good portion of the carbon reinforced A-arm. Anyone have this problem. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
The other pic is my newly finished Kawada conversion. So far every setting change is much more pronounced with this chassis. Next week it will get raced for the first time.
I currently have 1 degree rear camber and changing it to about 3 will eliminate this problem but I don't really want to have to do that. The rim itself may be suspect; it feels a little loser than the stock Tamiya dish wheels. I use the premount CS27/RP30's because they are the spec tire in my club series.
You'll see in the attached pictures that it's actually chewed out a good portion of the carbon reinforced A-arm. Anyone have this problem. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
The other pic is my newly finished Kawada conversion. So far every setting change is much more pronounced with this chassis. Next week it will get raced for the first time.