Jspeed

Thank you very much for trying the Warrior as your race body, the paint and video look great.

I noticed the back of your Warrior; it looks cool, but if your track rules allow you can consider a few good options that will help increase your hi-speed steering, traction and acceleration on race day.

Here are few examples shown in the attached pics below the post:

The 1st pic shows the rear tail light panel cut along the standard line. It still maintains the tail lights but allows the evacuation of a lot of trapped air underneath.

Car bodies with big tail light panels that catch a lot of air are always at a disadvantage because the back of the body works like a parachute; not that good really.

The 2nd pic shows the Warrior body with the tail light panel cut out using the optional high line. This cut line allows the free flow of air to exit out the back.

This increases the speed, downforce, steering and run time over a closed back or parachute body.

The 3rd pic shows the “Gurney Flap” and "Side Stiffeners". The flap was invented by “Dan Gurney” of racing fame. It is designed to offer an adjustable height option for the rear spoiler.

All Warriors come with the flap and there are cut-lines under the tail lights. The flap has vertical slots that allow you to use plastic screws to attach.

These plastic screws are available at any Home Depot or Lowes stores. When you loosen the plastic screws you can more or less steering and rear downforce to the body. The result is a body that can be slightly changed to “dial it into” track layout or conditions.

Another thing to consider are body stiffeners for the sides. Shown in pic #3.
Instead of using heavy drywall take & shoo-goo, you might just consider an easy homemade lexan body stiffener.

If you’ve ever seen the 1/8 Lola type race bodies, you might have seen them in use.

Just get a few flat strips of lexan about 1” in width and about 5” long. Go in 1” from each end and make a 45 degree angle bend. Then use shoo-goo to attach to the body’s sides to the top surface of the fender.

I usually back these up with small rivets and they stay on for good. That will minimize the body’s side flex for the lower speeds found in track racing.
Good Luck & thanks again!

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For the rest of you Top-Speed racers, follow johnracerx’s suggestions on youtube and get those Warriors ready for the Ipanema Top Speed Club event in September!

NiteCap2k

Hey Marcus,
i'm wondering how you think the aerodynamics of the f458 body will be? do you think it would do good on speed runs

NiteCap2k

thanks for the tips. i do plan on doing mine like pic 1 i just havent yet. our 1/8 on road track still under construction so i have time. yes ive taken tips from John on my DM1. i also use a warrior body but didn't cut away the rear. and it became a parachute..anyway thanks... I do have one question, you plan on any decals for the warrior body?

Jstall7543

iTrader: (2)

It makes me really happy to finally see this thread poppin off, it was just me for a long time lol this is cool!

Jstall7543

iTrader: (2)

Cant I just flip the inserts for less toe like on my rc8be or scte or mc2 toe block? I could easily make a new block but for a $20 part why bother. I want to change the toe at the rear of the car so I don't run into out drive / cvd engagement as mentioned in chris's video.

FLoJo

iTrader: (2)

my warrior with kyosho ferrari decals

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Definitely, I think the maclaren may be even better. cars with long front overhang and short rear overhang have good aero. You speed guys really need to do some underbody aero, your fighting a losing battle by leaving the bottom open it just creates vacuum even with the rear cut out. Look at 1:1 speed cars. You dont want large side dams are really rear wings at all, they just slow the car down. look at prostock drag cars. Extended wings hanging off the back will work better than anything sticking up including gurney flaps which are designed for downforce by creating drag, both of which are the enemy for all out speed.

Do some research on F1 and pay attention to what they do on the bottom of the car. They spend the majority of their time and research making the bottom work properly more so than the top.

Jspeed

Yeah, for top speed running, any RC car body design with a tail light panel will run slower and even blow-out; its all physics.

That gurney flap on your Warrior body is great to have in your track toolbox. You don’t have to use it, if your car is dialed on the track; but there’re times that gurney is nice to have and can help to own that apex, lol

The Warrior street price is around $45 dollars and made in the USA. Haven’t been able to find a commercial printer in America that could make them cost effectively…… yet, but when/if I do we’ll all have decals & masks. Personally would not like to have see the body’s retail price go up these days.

Been working on two other potentially faster GT race bodies.
Most of the guys that have been running the Warrior on tracks for years, using liquid mask and go wild on paint jobs. I’ll look into it more. Thanks

Jstall7543

iTrader: (2)

Rawsteel on youtube did 137mph with a C6r body and a stock chassis, sides open and everything. I know what your saying! Xo-1 style chassis.

Jspeed

Marcus,
I actually agree with some of your post, not all, but some, holy cow! Lol.

The underpinnings of an F1 car are essential for F1 style racing, but drag racing & top-speed running are a different animal. F1 cars still race thru switchbacks, chicanes, sweeper turns, dog legs and track racing stuff like that. F1 cars are not top-speed run cars.

If an F1 car raced against a Bonneville Salt Lake top-speed run cars, it would lose a lot of the time, lol.



Top-speed running GT bodies not only need to lower drag coefficient and control lift, there’s also vibration oscillations from the rotating mass of gears/shafts/bearings/tires & stuff.

Top-speed GT cars also have to deal with horizontal wind shear the car can experience at the insane mph speeds some of these brushless cars go.

The two “winglets” or “shark fins” on the Warrior work using the same physics principles found on most jet planes, the Blue Flame or a NASA rocket; they all have “fins” to help keep them going straight and not flipping out.

A lot of the fastest GT top-speed runners say the Warrior feels more “locked-in” over 100 mph and that’s good safety feature too. It could be tragic if somebody got hurt by an out of control toy car. So, the Warrior's fins are a good thing.




A floor pan would be very cool, a friend made a nice looking carbon fiber set-up for my IGT2 once.

It looked awesome and felt really good on the track under my Warrior, glued feeling, but they got damaged real quick.

They would be excellent if made with plastic injection, the plastic wouldn’t shatter and not weigh very much. Anything else brittle or heavy would suck, lol

Make some plastic ones, yourself and sell them!

Jspeed

I saw that video the other day, fast ride!
Hope he wins our September Warrior Top-Speed Club contest!

Jspeed

Awesome!!!

Jstall7543

iTrader: (2)

Haha look at this gt8le rally car coming out, I wonder how that would actually drive on gravel or trails.
Check it out here:

http://www.rcdriver.com/rcd/index.ph...ess-rally-car/

Jstall7543

iTrader: (2)

Haha look at this gt8le rally car coming out, I wonder how that would actually drive on gravel or trails. I like the way the tires and shocks are the same as the regular car.
Check it out here:

http://www.rcdriver.com/rcd/index.ph...ess-rally-car/

NiteCap2k

Jstall
looks more on-road to me.. i agree i dont think it will do well on a rally course or track. i can see folks buying and converting to completely on-road car though