littleZEN

iTrader: (30)

The slipper was definitely snappier and was probably faster. The center diff took the edge off and made it easier to drive even with 500k.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

So, we had our club race Thursday, and my traction issue has more or less been solved. First off, there were a lot of guys on this thread who had ideas on how to help me, thanks very much! They were all fairly different, so I thought I'd change as little as possible to start off, to see if it was a simple tune or if a whole sale change in set up was needed. To be fair, the temperature outside was a lot warmer than the previous weeks racing, which helped immensely with traction overall. As for my set up, I ended up going from 500k to 100k in the center diff, this helped tame the power and the rear from getting out of control going straight, and lessened the front feeling like it was pulling the car around the track, but it did not add traction coming out of corners or sweepers. I added 3 dot front springs. This helped a bit more, but the rear still slid around. I then checked my buddy's B44.3 diffs at the advice of another and his were super free, so I pulled out my 8k front, refilled it with 3k and put it in the back, and moved the 5k rear diff now to the front, eureka. Now, it is a little wee bit sluggish probably due to the 100k center diff, but when my 200k arrives I'll try that. I have a better handling buggy now, but I could still use a bit more talent!

Willie Mann

iTrader: (12)

Hello I am just starting to put together the xb4 2015 and the differential on step 1 is totally binded up and will not spin freely could I have gotten bad outdrives? Or could it be the bushing?

*** fixed just needed to hammer in the bushing a bit more***

ATXPro4

iTrader: (4)

Mine did not require any hammering and did not have any bushings. Bearings yes, but no bushings.

Now you have me thinking that you are probably referring to the the diff alone and not installed in the car. And I can see how that spacer/bushing on the metal ring gear could cause it to be way to tight.

HulkNT1

iTrader: (1)

I am trying to get the Ride Height but can only reach 21 in both rear and front with the basic spec I am running on clay track bumpy. The Basic setup said 18 for front and rear I have the XB4 2015 kit any idea what can I do to decrease to 18 or 19. I also see the buggy doe not have a droop screw.

Thanks

HulkNT1

iTrader: (1)

Whats a good shock tool to tighten the shock. my shock came lose today in practice I hand tighten but as I see not very good. What shock tools are you guys using??

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Heavy,

Nice! Glad to here your buggy improved and very smart you applying small incremental changes. I really think you are going to like 200k in your center diff as I love it especially on a lower bite track. The buggy is very controllable and can be pushed aggressively when wanted.

Have an excellent rest of your weekend my friend.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

There is no shock tool like with the AE, Kyosho's or others as there is no "keyed" section on the shock for any tool to lock into. We all grip the shock body, sometimes with a shop towel to ensure it does not slip, and man hands the cap on tight.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

Use these http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/protek-...k-8267/p248643

Willie Mann

iTrader: (12)

Hey trying to finish up getting my xb4 2015 ready but running into another issue. the motor mount holes are about 1-2mm too close to each other to fit on my trackstar 13.5 motor anybody have this issue before? Could I have a bad motor mount or possibly a bad motor?

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

I would guess the motor before the mount.

Mizchief

+1 works great for holding bodies and shafts for all my models.

GrandeGixxer

iTrader: (21)

For the droop, the way to measure it is to measure from center to center on the shock mounting screws. I use a digital caliper, but I guess you could use a ruler as well. You use the shock length to set the droop on this car.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

Have a question for you long term XB4 guys. I have an 2015 that I've broken two front axles in the last two times out on the track (one left and one right). Droop and up travel are set perfect. In fact, there is not one mark on the axles from the outdrives. EPA's are set perfect as well (no noise from servo at full lock). Both axles broke at the ball. Now I'm searching for replacements and none are available. Not driving related as I rarely hit anything.

Is this a normal problem for these buggies? At $25 a pop this will be an expensive buggy to run.

Norse

iTrader: (43)

Pick up some Spec R Racing front CVD's. They are excellent as the reduce chatter and are easier on your front diff. Improved steering control.
Much like a double cardone CVD's from Tamiya as well as Shumachers True CVD's.

Under 50 for a pair of assembled fronts. These will last you a long time.