246LikesXray XB4 thread
12-23-2013, 10:13 AM
#3646
until recently I was running the car the same way. I was also on tacky clay. Now that the cold weather has come into Chicago the track is getting drier and drier. I took the composite piece off the rear of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. wow. quite a difference in the amount of power I can put down through the middle and exit of a corner.
12-23-2013, 10:21 AM
#3647
That's a big indoor. It almost looks like a Rebar, holeshot, impact, or even a green barcode tire.
I would play with the EPA settings and turn down the initial punch. Also run no to low drag brake. And with a 6.5 you really don't need any Turbo or boost (my opinion).
I have the same amount of rip as the 6.5's
I'm geared 23/84 with a 7.5 Orion vst. And I have my curve turned down
I would play with the EPA settings and turn down the initial punch. Also run no to low drag brake. And with a 6.5 you really don't need any Turbo or boost (my opinion).
I have the same amount of rip as the 6.5's
I'm geared 23/84 with a 7.5 Orion vst. And I have my curve turned down
finally watched that video and if you think that's a big indoor, well, don't ever watch a video from my home track. haha. more than the size of the track though, it looks like there are no jumps or straight shoots that would require more than a 13.5 on that track to be fast. maybe a 10.5 if you wanted to pull full trigger for just a moment. any more power than that and I can see how a car could get loose. looks bumpy too. so I'd suggest the lower end on shock oils, 35wt, 27.5 wt. maybe even lower if it gets cold in there. run ride height a tad on the higher side as well, 21 ish.
12-23-2013, 10:38 AM
#3648
sure, I've been meaning to post one on the xray site but just can't seem to get it done.
I'm very close to the stock clay setup. in the Midwest I am usually on med to high bite indoor dirt tracks. low to med bite outdoor in the summer.
here are some of the highlights of my setup along with some guidelines for the things I typically change. besides tires of course.
I moved my hinge pins to the Martin Bayer settings and the car got more stable the wider I got. and like I mentioned before, I cut off the rear composite piece of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. I cut slots in the forward screw holes and left the rear 4 holes alone so I can slide it in under the gear box if needed by leaving the front two screws just a little loosened.
shocks are 35wt, 27.5 wt, 3 hole 1.3 pistons (I tried 1.6 and 1.7 and didn't like them)
stock shock positions. for a lot of bigger sweeping turns or a very loose
track I will lower the upper position in the rear one hole.
stock springs -sometimes progressive front - again for more sweeping turns or looser track to tame down the front end in mid corner and exit.
bigger bushing underneath the caster block. 9 deg caster blocks
rear hole on the steering rack unless I am on very tight track with tight 180's.
I am running 5k front and 3k rear almost exclusively now. if I get on a very high bite track again I might go back to 7k and 5k.
typically I run 1deg of camber but may adjust each end according to the grip I feel.
I vary ride height to track conditions a bit. Very hooked up and flat dirt I will run around 18 or 19, the looser or bumpier it gets the higher I will go. never above 21 or so though. and I usually run the rear about .5 to 1mm lower. after a hot lap I may have someone adjust one end or the other .5 to 1 turn if my guess on the track changes were wrong. on carpet I dropped it down to 15 and made a few other changes too but that's a whole other setup.
something else important I noted recently: the weight of the battery. I have some that are 275 grams and others that are closer to 230 (very light for a decent saddle pack). the lighter pack was definitely much better as the track got looser. the heavy pack made the rear end swing around corners much easier but also made it step out a bit around some corners I wasn't looking for it to. the lighter pack kept the rear end tracking behind the front end much better on the real loose tracks. something to experiment with anyway.
hope this helps.
I'm very close to the stock clay setup. in the Midwest I am usually on med to high bite indoor dirt tracks. low to med bite outdoor in the summer.
here are some of the highlights of my setup along with some guidelines for the things I typically change. besides tires of course.
I moved my hinge pins to the Martin Bayer settings and the car got more stable the wider I got. and like I mentioned before, I cut off the rear composite piece of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. I cut slots in the forward screw holes and left the rear 4 holes alone so I can slide it in under the gear box if needed by leaving the front two screws just a little loosened.
shocks are 35wt, 27.5 wt, 3 hole 1.3 pistons (I tried 1.6 and 1.7 and didn't like them)
stock shock positions. for a lot of bigger sweeping turns or a very loose
track I will lower the upper position in the rear one hole.
stock springs -sometimes progressive front - again for more sweeping turns or looser track to tame down the front end in mid corner and exit.
bigger bushing underneath the caster block. 9 deg caster blocks
rear hole on the steering rack unless I am on very tight track with tight 180's.
I am running 5k front and 3k rear almost exclusively now. if I get on a very high bite track again I might go back to 7k and 5k.
typically I run 1deg of camber but may adjust each end according to the grip I feel.
I vary ride height to track conditions a bit. Very hooked up and flat dirt I will run around 18 or 19, the looser or bumpier it gets the higher I will go. never above 21 or so though. and I usually run the rear about .5 to 1mm lower. after a hot lap I may have someone adjust one end or the other .5 to 1 turn if my guess on the track changes were wrong. on carpet I dropped it down to 15 and made a few other changes too but that's a whole other setup.
something else important I noted recently: the weight of the battery. I have some that are 275 grams and others that are closer to 230 (very light for a decent saddle pack). the lighter pack was definitely much better as the track got looser. the heavy pack made the rear end swing around corners much easier but also made it step out a bit around some corners I wasn't looking for it to. the lighter pack kept the rear end tracking behind the front end much better on the real loose tracks. something to experiment with anyway.
hope this helps.
12-23-2013, 10:47 AM
#3649
sure, I've been meaning to post one on the xray site but just can't seem to get it done.
I'm very close to the stock clay setup. in the Midwest I am usually on med to high bite indoor dirt tracks. low to med bite outdoor in the summer.
here are some of the highlights of my setup along with some guidelines for the things I typically change. besides tires of course.
I moved my hinge pins to the Martin Bayer settings and the car got more stable the wider I got. and like I mentioned before, I cut off the rear composite piece of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. I cut slots in the forward screw holes and left the rear 4 holes alone so I can slide it in under the gear box if needed by leaving the front two screws just a little loosened.
shocks are 35wt, 27.5 wt, 3 hole 1.3 pistons (I tried 1.6 and 1.7 and didn't like them)
stock shock positions. for a lot of bigger sweeping turns or a very loose
track I will lower the upper position in the rear one hole.
stock springs -sometimes progressive front - again for more sweeping turns or looser track to tame down the front end in mid corner and exit.
bigger bushing underneath the caster block. 9 deg caster blocks
rear hole on the steering rack unless I am on very tight track with tight 180's.
I am running 5k front and 3k rear almost exclusively now. if I get on a very high bite track again I might go back to 7k and 5k.
typically I run 1deg of camber but may adjust each end according to the grip I feel.
I vary ride height to track conditions a bit. Very hooked up and flat dirt I will run around 18 or 19, the looser or bumpier it gets the higher I will go. never above 21 or so though. and I usually run the rear about .5 to 1mm lower. after a hot lap I may have someone adjust one end or the other .5 to 1 turn if my guess on the track changes were wrong. on carpet I dropped it down to 15 and made a few other changes too but that's a whole other setup.
I'm very close to the stock clay setup. in the Midwest I am usually on med to high bite indoor dirt tracks. low to med bite outdoor in the summer.
here are some of the highlights of my setup along with some guidelines for the things I typically change. besides tires of course.
I moved my hinge pins to the Martin Bayer settings and the car got more stable the wider I got. and like I mentioned before, I cut off the rear composite piece of the chassis and dropped the gearbox down. I cut slots in the forward screw holes and left the rear 4 holes alone so I can slide it in under the gear box if needed by leaving the front two screws just a little loosened.
shocks are 35wt, 27.5 wt, 3 hole 1.3 pistons (I tried 1.6 and 1.7 and didn't like them)
stock shock positions. for a lot of bigger sweeping turns or a very loose
track I will lower the upper position in the rear one hole.
stock springs -sometimes progressive front - again for more sweeping turns or looser track to tame down the front end in mid corner and exit.
bigger bushing underneath the caster block. 9 deg caster blocks
rear hole on the steering rack unless I am on very tight track with tight 180's.
I am running 5k front and 3k rear almost exclusively now. if I get on a very high bite track again I might go back to 7k and 5k.
typically I run 1deg of camber but may adjust each end according to the grip I feel.
I vary ride height to track conditions a bit. Very hooked up and flat dirt I will run around 18 or 19, the looser or bumpier it gets the higher I will go. never above 21 or so though. and I usually run the rear about .5 to 1mm lower. after a hot lap I may have someone adjust one end or the other .5 to 1 turn if my guess on the track changes were wrong. on carpet I dropped it down to 15 and made a few other changes too but that's a whole other setup.
12-23-2013, 10:58 AM
#3650
Take an hour or so on a practice day and bring a wrench and your springs to the side of the track, turn a few laps, change one pair, turn a few more, go back, then change others, etc etc. in 1 or 2 packs and less than an hour you will feel what all the combinations will do in your hands. Then when you are racing and feel you need a change you have an idea of which way to go. I personally wouldn't use the hard spring unless I changed to heavier oils and were running on very high bite or carpet. soft and progressive for me on dirt. but again, you have to feel it out a bit for yourself.
12-23-2013, 11:20 AM
#3652
thanks. I wanted to have a way to put it back quickly without having to completely loosen the rear end. it worked well when I did a "test replacement". slid right in around the forward 2 screws.
12-24-2013, 07:40 AM
#3655
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
finally watched that video and if you think that's a big indoor, well, don't ever watch a video from my home track. haha. more than the size of the track though, it looks like there are no jumps or straight shoots that would require more than a 13.5 on that track to be fast. maybe a 10.5 if you wanted to pull full trigger for just a moment. any more power than that and I can see how a car could get loose. looks bumpy too. so I'd suggest the lower end on shock oils, 35wt, 27.5 wt. maybe even lower if it gets cold in there. run ride height a tad on the higher side as well, 21 ish.http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=F6EC2rnkwrk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=-g8VWKzOYDw
Last edited by auto2; 12-24-2013 at 09:51 AM.
12-24-2013, 08:49 AM
#3656
Tech Apprentice
finally watched that video and if you think that's a big indoor, well, don't ever watch a video from my home track. haha. more than the size of the track though, it looks like there are no jumps or straight shoots that would require more than a 13.5 on that track to be fast. maybe a 10.5 if you wanted to pull full trigger for just a moment. any more power than that and I can see how a car could get loose. looks bumpy too. so I'd suggest the lower end on shock oils, 35wt, 27.5 wt. maybe even lower if it gets cold in there. run ride height a tad on the higher side as well, 21 ish.when you said you ran it without the plastic peice , was that without any weights and on the standard hinge pin holders ? or the optional ones ?
i'm running my xb4 on astro turf , but as its a bit cold and damp/wet , i'm just trying to put some weight under the rear end to increase a bit of grip , but after reading your post im wondering if i should take one spacer out , soo its still lower but also has some added weight ... whats your thoughts ??
cheers shaun
12-24-2013, 09:56 AM
#3657
yes the 10.5 in mine was perfect for me.very controlable easy to drive. my thought is we have 2 tracks close to us and they are both so different. i had the 10.5 still in from the other track (vid below) but i found it still good on the bigger track. my question is without redoing the whole car what is good to change between tracks? the small track is very smooth,very tight, with med traction and some dust at times , heated.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=F6EC2rnkwrk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=F6EC2rnkwrk
12-24-2013, 10:04 AM
#3658
hi , ive only just done the mod to the rear chassis , only thro looking on the different bits on the xb4'14 !! , ive cut the peice off , and made 2 brass weights ( each 1mm thick , plastic bit is 2mm ) , weighing a total of 34g , to go in place of the plastic peice ..
when you said you ran it without the plastic peice , was that without any weights and on the standard hinge pin holders ? or the optional ones ?
i'm running my xb4 on astro turf , but as its a bit cold and damp/wet , i'm just trying to put some weight under the rear end to increase a bit of grip , but after reading your post im wondering if i should take one spacer out , soo its still lower but also has some added weight ... whats your thoughts ??
cheers shaun
when you said you ran it without the plastic peice , was that without any weights and on the standard hinge pin holders ? or the optional ones ?
i'm running my xb4 on astro turf , but as its a bit cold and damp/wet , i'm just trying to put some weight under the rear end to increase a bit of grip , but after reading your post im wondering if i should take one spacer out , soo its still lower but also has some added weight ... whats your thoughts ??
cheers shaun
I did not add any weight to the car when I took out the plastic "shim". (it's a shim now, I guess).
I'd say you just gotta try it. it seemed that lowering the gearbox was what made the change since the plastic piece is very light. and I used the stock pin holders.
but perhaps adding weight there will help. with more weight you may want less drag brake on the ESC so that you can roll through corners even more with less chance of the rear end starting to come around as you enter the corner.
maybe my driving style has changed a bit recently but I found that I'm liking less weight on my cars on looser tracks and more weight with more grip. BUT everything has it's limits.
12-24-2013, 10:19 AM
#3659
Tech Apprentice
neat idea.
I did not add any weight to the car when I took out the plastic "shim". (it's a shim now, I guess).
I'd say you just gotta try it. it seemed that lowering the gearbox was what made the change since the plastic piece is very light. and I used the stock pin holders.
but perhaps adding weight there will help. with more weight you may want less drag brake on the ESC so that you can roll through corners even more with less chance of the rear end starting to come around as you enter the corner.
maybe my driving style has changed a bit recently but I found that I'm liking less weight on my cars on looser tracks and more weight with more grip. BUT everything has it's limits.
I did not add any weight to the car when I took out the plastic "shim". (it's a shim now, I guess).
I'd say you just gotta try it. it seemed that lowering the gearbox was what made the change since the plastic piece is very light. and I used the stock pin holders.
but perhaps adding weight there will help. with more weight you may want less drag brake on the ESC so that you can roll through corners even more with less chance of the rear end starting to come around as you enter the corner.
maybe my driving style has changed a bit recently but I found that I'm liking less weight on my cars on looser tracks and more weight with more grip. BUT everything has it's limits.
, i don't normally run with any drag brake , but can see what you mean.. ill try it on sunday , ive also made a 1.5mm weight/shim soo will try them and compare , soo that will be a 1mm , 1.5 and 2mm shim , ive not changed anything else from last weekend , and it was pretty good then , apart from a bit of over rotation if i gave it full beans!!
12-25-2013, 05:42 AM
#3660
What do you guys recommend for options and or hopups for this buggy?? Also what spares are needed to be kept in the parts box?? I'm asking about the 2014 version. Thanks.