246LikesXray XB4 thread
10-29-2013, 08:27 PM
#3241
I marshaled your race last week, your car looked ok but not as settled as the two running at the front of the pack. You can compare your times either if you aren't clipping the apex's like the faster drivers.
I have put my latest setup for our home track on the Xray website if you wish to try it. Some of the stock drivers had a wheel of my car on a practice day with the EPA reduced to stock speed. They liked it because it turned in a little harder then their own cars with stock settings.
Putting the washer under the o-ring is now moving the force/energy that is being absorbed by the chassis to the shock and the shock tower.
I have put my latest setup for our home track on the Xray website if you wish to try it. Some of the stock drivers had a wheel of my car on a practice day with the EPA reduced to stock speed. They liked it because it turned in a little harder then their own cars with stock settings.
Putting the washer under the o-ring is now moving the force/energy that is being absorbed by the chassis to the shock and the shock tower.
Will have a look at your latest set up anyway, thanks.
10-30-2013, 08:02 AM
#3243
Are sway bars for this car bad because the base clay setup sys 1.2 away bars front and rear I'm on a smaller clay track should I remove them? And does anyone make premounted that fit the xb4 yet or are there some hexes I can put to where I can buy premounts for the car? Here's a picture of the track I'm running on so will this setup work I've already been told I should probably run 5 and three in the diffs but I followed the test of this setup sheet pretty exact and haven't had a chance to run the car yet should I change anything? http://www.teamxray.com/xb4/download...sheet_clay.pdf thanks for the help guys I'm also running the diggity shock towers so I have an extra outer mounting hold on the rear tower help is greatly appreciated I also put 30 and 27.5 in the shocks thanks again
Last edited by T3tsaya; 10-30-2013 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Typos
10-30-2013, 07:50 PM
#3244
The swaybars aren't bad, they're just not suitable for my track. I run outdoors loose dirt/clay and needed to stop it sliding around -> fastest way to do it is to pull the swaybars off. It's probably fairly telling if I say that we need to run ifmar pins or flipouts (or sometimes ifmar studs). In contrast, I would probably put the swaybars back on if I was running, say, barcodes/rebars/whatever and come close to tractionrolling...
10-31-2013, 10:13 AM
#3247
Tech Adept
Is the new aluminium chassis flat lying on its own on a glass board? Because my new one isn't...
On the other hand the aluminium chassis is so soft on its own that it'll probably get straightened out when attached to the plastic chassis.
BTW: Picked up my XB4'14 yesterday, carbon parts are sealed now and I'll start the build this weekend
Regards,
David
10-31-2013, 10:27 AM
#3248
Did the topdeck hold?
Is the new aluminium chassis flat lying on its own on a glass board? Because my new one isn't...
On the other hand the aluminium chassis is so soft on its own that it'll probably get straightened out when attached to the plastic chassis.
BTW: Picked up my XB4'14 yesterday, carbon parts are sealed now and I'll start the build this weekend
Regards,
David
Is the new aluminium chassis flat lying on its own on a glass board? Because my new one isn't...
On the other hand the aluminium chassis is so soft on its own that it'll probably get straightened out when attached to the plastic chassis.
BTW: Picked up my XB4'14 yesterday, carbon parts are sealed now and I'll start the build this weekend
Regards,
David
everything held. I thought for sure an arm was going to be severed off but to my surprise it didn't.... I just destroyed everything else! lol
the old aluminium chassis was bent and tweaked from side to side. the new aluminium chassis didn't lay down perfectly flat but wasn't tweaked.
I'm still waiting for my 2014 to arrive*
10-31-2013, 11:18 AM
#3249
The chassis is quite soft, my v1.0 was bending at the rear after ten packs, just the tiniest bit but still disconcerting. The chassis wears badly at the rear as well. A harder/stiffer chassis would be nice not only for tuning options but to increase the durability.
10-31-2013, 10:17 PM
#3252
In short, a rear bumper will be nice, like what is on the K1.
11-01-2013, 01:08 AM
#3253
Really not needed......nothing wrong with the original chassis as it wears very well (unless you're constantly chassis slapping) 
Tuning chassis flex is done with the flex screws and longer top deck or additional rear chassis brace
If you're concerned about excessive chassis wear due to a very rough track you could always opt for the Bugle Boy front bumper and chassis undertray
Bent
Tuning chassis flex is done with the flex screws and longer top deck or additional rear chassis brace
If you're concerned about excessive chassis wear due to a very rough track you could always opt for the Bugle Boy front bumper and chassis undertray
Bent
Last edited by BentKa; 11-01-2013 at 01:58 AM. Reason: Added Bugle Boy info
11-01-2013, 03:00 AM
#3254
Tech Initiate
XB4 2WD pics and tech. So it is probably a 2WD version, for NOT low traction;
http://www.rcspecial.com/news/?p=134909
http://www.rcspecial.com/news/?p=134909
11-01-2013, 03:20 AM
#3255
XB4 2WD pics and tech. So it is probably a 2WD version, for NOT low traction;
http://www.rcspecial.com/news/?p=134909
http://www.rcspecial.com/news/?p=134909
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...al-thread.html
And on Xray's website:
http://www.teamxray.com/xb4-2wd/
Bent