farm

Hey.
since T4 have few months, is there any dissadvanteges like shorter shocks or things xray change from T3'12.

Actually i got T3'12 with non standard bottom chassis and alu shocks.

use it for 13.5t prostock.

Im thinking of switching chassis to t4 have some $ to spend , and wonder do i need it?
What i need from tuning parts,
definitely some springs and antirollbars.
but what can i expect , bumper to thin?
I saw guy who put higher tower in t4 to put t3 shocks on it.

Is there a chance that i will be not satisfied by T4 desing/eng?

Bar

iTrader: (1)

The T4 is an amazing car, probably the best spec for a car out the box, only options you really need are some t4 springs for tuning. The new shocks are probably some of the best shocks out there at the moment, hence why most teams are going the same way, lower towers shorter fatter shocks.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I've been battling leaky diff issues for a while but think I finally got it sorted out.

I've built it with the O-ring, without, and then went back to using the O-ring.

Make sure to use green slime on the outdrive O'rings and on bottom of the washer under the pin. Then I like to fill it just under halfway on the crosspin on the gear diff. I've been building 1/8th buggy diffs all the time like this and never had leaks unless I went quite a bit over the crosspin.

Paper gasket, make sure the super slick side is mating with the diff half surface. Not the part that meets the other plastic diff halve. I like to use a bit of green slime on the back to hold it in place. Next, apply the large thin O-ring on the OPPOSITE diff half in the manual. The manual has you applying it to the pulley halve and its just easy to get the O-ring bunched up when you meet the two sides. I forget what spray I used but I sprayed the O-ring and let it set overnight so it can thicken up a bit (while on the diff half). Then apply green slime, mate it with the other diff halve, making sure the notch matches up. Tighten 1-2-3-4 cross sequence a bit at a time, no need to overdo it. So far I have gone thru a race with no leaks at all.

EvanAZ

iTrader: (99)

New here, I don't have one yet, but seriously thinking of dropping the ball on one of these. Never ran on-road and have some questions.

What are the major differences between a T3 and T4? I've seen some T3's even T2's for good prices but wondered if they would be a waste of money.

Basically should I pick an older T2/T3 or just take the plunge on a T4?

Also if anyone has one they would like to trade for a Durango DESC410, LMK

Thanks

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

Basically everything is lower/narrower towards centerline on the T4 and the chassis is thinner from factory. I think 2.5 vs 2.2.

I still run a T3'12 and finished 2nd behind a T4 at the last local big race we had. His driving is much much better than mine (owner of Nexus racing). I think a T3 is still a great car to start with!

noworries

iTrader: (42)

Brand NEW and built (professionally) never run T4. put 3,000 in gear diff. also use green slime on o rings in shocks and diff. text me 518-495-0703. 475 shipped.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Professionally? By whom? LOL Can you provide reference to it? Sorry I'm just being skeptical about it because I was fooled by 2 people here saying the same thing twice.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I don't think anybody out there actually makes a living building RC kits for other people... so I don't think it can actually be professionally built.

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

I've seen guys that are in the hobby for 10 + years and built multiple kits out of the box make mistakes on builds... What's considered professional?
I bet if you look at 3 t4's built next to each other on the same day not 1 is perfectly built, some people just like to do it their way

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Let alone doing it right and doing the sanding/sealing on the chassis.

yunowill

Hey guys just giving everyone a heads up I am selling my Xray T4

Check out my ad and you can always msg me for details or questions

Thanks
Will,

SARBoy

Hi,

I'm about to buy a T4 and could use a little advice. I have most things covered, I think, but am struggling a little with a good esc. I have £100-150 to spend and will be running 13.5 blinky to start with. I'd prefer an esc that I can grow with rather than upgrading at a later date. I have no loyalty to brand so will consider anything. Whats worth spending on?

I'm also trying to work out pinion size. It's for an indoor carpet track with a 40-60m straight. Does the kit come with different spur sizes or will I have to buy extra and should I go for 48 dp or 64 dp?

Is there a detailed build log/vid out there with any good gems for this kit? Any help and advice welcome.

Cheers

Tom

artwork

iTrader: (88)

I have had a lot of success with the Speed Passion Reventon Pro...It works well in 17.5, 13.5 and modified. Really smooth and very powerful.

For 13.5 I would suggest a 100 tooth 64p spur and about a 43-45 tooth pinion.

Get ECSs in the front...and titanium turnbuckles for the steering links. Other than that kit stuff works very well. A spring kit is good to have...

seth556

iTrader: (43)

We all have that one friend who considers himself a master builder, but has their new kit fall apart over and over again. You'd think eventually they'd quit saying they put thread lock on everything when every screw on all their cars are falling out.

scoyle

Tom,

I have recently moved from the Hobbywing v3 to the LRP Flow Works and really like it - the works version is overkill and there is a non-works version that is worth checking out and would be great for 13.5. Easy to get you started as it does not require a programmer box (although you will need a friend with an update cable when you do come to update the software versions at a later date).

Indoors on carpet I have started with a 19/84 pinion/spur but the problem you will have is different speedo's and motors will mean slightly different gearing. You can see the speed of my car using the LRP and a Reedy 13.5 here; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RjwY...ature=youtu.be (I am the green car in first place that gets taken out around the two minute mark but you can see the car is pretty quick down the straight).

On the build review front I am working on one at the minute that I hope will be up within the next week. You will be able to see it at http://www.rcracingni.co.uk when I get it finished.

Stephen