Fuzzi0n

The diff comes with the right gasket, don't worry about that. The rest on that list are all worth it. Layshaft bearings are 5x8x2.5mm.

Not much breaks, just the usual stuff on a touring car. The suspension parts seem to be pretty robust, although they will break if you hit something hard enough. It's certainly no less durable than the other cars out there.

Pe4atnik

Hi there guys!
I've got the S1 kit, we desided to use it for beginners 17,5 blinky class locally. I had much pleasure building it and trying it. I don't have too much experience in onroad, but I really love this car now. I never tried such a durable car! It's fantastic! At least I raced it in 13,5 blinky and that was fantastic! I tried shown set ups, but it's not perfect yet.
Now rebuilding it I'm impressed again with its durability.
Also I have a question. I've seen kit spring rates (2,9-2,7)here and also someone wrote that softer springs fill better. My car is rather nurvious and rather hard to drive. I installed eBay-bArs 1,4-1,2 and that made it better, but still not good. The grip is rather low.

Pe4atnik

Oh! The only 2 things must have - bamper plastic and outer pins! Metal breaks faster than plastic

Fuzzi0n

If its nervous, try some thicker diff oil, 3000-5000 is a good area to start. I'm running Tamiya white and blue springs, front and rear. Yokomo pink and blue are a good choice too.

Pe4atnik

Yeah! Thanks! I already tried 3000 and 5000 in diff and 5000 is better, but sometimes the rear of the car slips to the outside of the corner. I know that it is too much throttle, but that's too much control. I thought that rear swaybar will solve that - but not at all. I'm thinking about sanding the gears and tightening it.

The springs you mentioned - they are softer than kit ones?

I'd like to mention one strange thing for me - ball bearings! They don't have locks, so it's rather hard to open them, but it's rather easy to take carpet frame them without opening)))

Fuzzi0n

The springs are softer, the stock ones are quite hard. Perhaps also try running the thickest front roll bar and the thinnest rear one, might help out. Also leaning the rear shocks in more can calm it down a bit.

Bappe

3racing ecs driveshafts for spec r/xray, really good price!

http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-t301-d...t-p-36126.html

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

I've read about some people having to shim the diff and some not, why would that be ? shouldn't the mouldings be consistent and all be the same ? If I need to shim the diffs on the 2 cars I've bought, does the kit come with enough shims or do I need to buy some ?

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

Are you referring to the top bumper plate or the bottom bumper mount?

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The only parts I've broken on my S1 are the front lower bumper plate and the front body posts. The car has been solid for me other than those parts.

spencehotbodies

Hello

On drive shafts, I have been using spec r double jointed ones, very good and strong.

Pe4atnik

I mean bottom bumper mount! I also broke one body post after a hard crash!

Pe4atnik

About shims: some people put too much shims, so there is no play at all, that makes the transmission work harder, not very smooth. Best of all I liked flanged ball bearings with stock inserts. You also can put some shims to spool and diff bearings, but leave some play.
On s1 you shouldn't screw out the spur screws (on spur tower), you can strip the spur when you hit someone hard)))

SpecRC

You would need to purchase some more, i brought some from spec R. The kit comes with only one per side. Your diff might be fine and the internal gears are inexpensive if they do have trouble.

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

I bult the car box stock. I assumed with shock adjustment I could get 5mm ride height. This does not appear to be the case. I have turned the shock adjuster all the way out and the lowest I can get the ride height is 6mm. Should I put spacers under the arm mounts? What millimeter would recommended so I will have some adjustability by turning the shock ring?