jaykay

Buon giorno e benvenuti!

You dont really need hop ups. My next MTX4 will only have the front cvd´s and the Titanium Screws.

This year I also tested the 4mm chassis, 4mm damper tray, teflon brake pads, rear cvd´s. At least, it´s more important that you have good setup, good tires, good engine and clutch performance and last but not least the driver is more important than everything.

Seisick

any one knows the total weight loss if using both titanium screw sets a and b for the mtx4

kidDynomite

Seisick, it's been a while, but I had weighed the Ti screws before installing and then as I pulled the stock screws off I placed them on the scale. If I remember correctly, the stock screws weighed in at about 89-90g. And the Ti's were about 40-45g. But I decided to use aluminum screws for mounting the spur gears and for the diff housings to reduce rotating mass. So I lost a few more g's there as well. I would suggest not to use Ti screws for your engine mounts.

For you weight weenies, here are a few other misc. weight specs I did record:

Stock Main Shaft = 22g vs. Sato Hollow Shaft = 14g
Stock Front Shaft = 12g vs. Sato Ti Shaft = 4g
Mugen Option Brake Disc = 13g vs. PDub Fiber Glass Disc = 3g

I previously drilled out the stock 1st & 2nd gear housings, which weigh as much as the Kawahara's 1st & 2nd. I also milled out the stock pulley adaptors which knocked off 2g per piece. The stock brake pulley adaptor lost 3g and now weighs the same as the Kfactory. Drilled out the spur gears and lost 1.5g per gear. As far as the pulley adaptors go, just buy the MSRs. Trying to lighten the stock ones was a pain to loose significant weigh and keep it balanced at the same time. Plus you'll need a mill, drill press, a prop or wheel balance tool if you do it yourself.

Seisick

thanks kid for the info,
the titanium sets should put my weight around the minimun,
how is the wear on the pdub disc?

jaykay

That´s right. Don´t use the Ti Screws for engine mount.

Where have you bought the Aluminium screws? That make really sense what you said.

kidDynomite

Ira told me that Mike said it would take about 20-30min to break in. Larry told me the same thing. No pads needed, just the brake plates. It's cold here in Chicago, so I haven't had a chance test it. Robbie did explain that it worked opposite of the norm. The soft disk material acts more as the pads and the plates acts as the disk. Reverse friction of some sort.

BTW, MSR will also be releasing a lightened brake pulley adaptor pretty soon.

Have a Merry Christmas everyone!!!

dg8one

where can i oreder this new brake disc?

deviltires

hey nelly i one for you just let me know when the next time your at 301

nitro_moe

Hi guys,,

I just lost my thrust bearing for my MTX-4. I was wondering if i can replace it with another manufacturer's thrust bearing. Since I can't find any in my LHS or onilne, any suggestions or ideas..??

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all..

asw7576

G4S ? V1RRR ?

FREELANCE_RCer

iTrader: (27)

I used serpent, hpi, kyosho and team magic. They all use 5x10mm thrust bearings for centax clutch.

nitro_moe

Thanks for the advice,, but isn't the RRR's thrust bearing a little bit smaller(4.8x10x4)??

I thought Mugen's was 5x10

nitro_moe

Thanks Freelance..

I'm looking at the ceramic thrust bearing from Serpent (SER-1388). Any ideas or opinions on this item? Would you happen to know the part number for any thrust bearing of the ones you mentioned?

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3885

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

I don't know the size but I know they are interchangeable. I've done it plenty times.

stefan

Hi Marco,

versuchs mal bei Daniel Tomaschko unter "Alu":

http://www.rc-car-exklusive.com/shop...sive.com/shop/