Originally Posted by Riketsu

Im using this setup now:

Yellow clutch, stock spring, stock shoes (lightweight), 9mm spring (measured from the top of the crankshaft) and 0.4mm clutch gap. After measuring this clutch gap, you should shim the inside of the bell so there isnt any rubbing against the clutch shoe.

Originally Posted by gonzo416

anyone know if there are aluminum wheel hexes with the 1mm offset in them so you don't have to use spacers?

Originally Posted by asw7576

What happen to engines when I use very low gear ratio way over the manual ? ( aka to gain more top speed because the track is 80 meter long straight ). The engine is long stroke novarossi LL5

This is from 7.489 to 6.062 ( 1st gear ) and from 4.973 to 4.235 ( 2nd gear )

* I'm concern with 1st gear more, going from 7.4 to 6.0 *

This is for upcoming sunday race, April 9.

Originally Posted by Joe Os

The Side Belt (Urethan) or Side Belt (Rubber) can be used 23T or 24tpulley?

Originally Posted by ogreasurada

They both work, but the Urethan belt can be a little tight on the 24T, the 23T pulley is practically un-usable anyways, so as the manual suggested, Rubber is still better choice even tho it may be a little lose (so far no one is having problem with it tho), but the operation is smoother and easier to change to the 25T if needed.

Originally Posted by Chris West

the person calculating the inital pulley sizes and internal ratios must have stuffed up, but i must say i liked using the 23t before a stone got stuck between it and the belt , it felt like my brothers MTX-3 Prospec with the 19/16 conversion (more "pull" out of corners) (front overdrive), i think that they should still make the 23t pulley

Originally Posted by Chris West

but if you measure it from the end of the crankshaft you will get different measurements between a OSTZ and a N12LL3 as the crankshaft isnt the same length from the bearing out, measure it from the end of the flywheel nut

Originally Posted by Scott Fisher

I do use a switch, and mount it in the stock location using the mounting plastic that came with the kit. If you eliminate the switch, all you are doing is saving your self from either the switch getting turned off during a crash and the headache of eventually the switch will go bad. If you eliminate your switch, you will have to either plug some sort of extension into your receiver to go to the battery, or leave the receiver cover off so you can get to the receiver every time. Many of the team drivers do not put the cover over their receiver, but I always use it.

When I need to buy a switch, I go through a lot of them to find one that is hard to move. This helps prevent the switch from moving during a hard impact, and so far it hasn't happened since I started being picky about the swtich tension. One time I did have an extension go bad on a gas truck that caused me to lose power. After that, I would buy a switch, open the thing up and put a longer set of wires on so I did not need an extension.

Originally Posted by tommi

There's actually one from 3Racing with +1mm offset, but it's made for the RRR, I reckon it SHOULD be usable? Look for part no. KV-008A at www.3racing.com.hk

Originally Posted by gonzo416

the best thing to do when using a switch which i think is a must is mount the switch so the on position is facing the front of the car so if you hit something the impact will only push the switch to the front so it will never turn off.

Originally Posted by asw7576

In mtx3 thread, some says it's better to use 23t so the rear tires don't wear as fast like using 24t. The front is spinning little bit faster with 23t.

In mtx4, some says to use 25t instead 24t. Isn't that strange ? 25t is slower front wheel drive, right ? Is there any reasons for using 25t instead 24t ?

Originally Posted by asw7576

Chris, what's your comment on very low gear ratio ( my earlier post ) ?

Originally Posted by typer

use kawahara