RacinJ

I've always had good luck getting my sidelinks to move freely, without slop, by doing the following.

First I'd install the pivot balls into the new sidelinks then, using the standard steel screws, tighten the set screws down completely. Close the gap at each end of the sidelink but don't over tighten. Just enough to close the gap. Then, set the links aside for a day or two.

After sitting I would remove the clamping screws and the pivot balls. With the screws and pivot balls out of the links the gaps should now be almost closed. Use a jewelers screw driver to reopen the gaps at each end the sidelinks. I also use the screwdriver to ease installing and removing the pivot balls by holding open the ends of the links.

With the pivot balls reinstalled and no set screws in the links, the pivot balls should be moving very freely and even have some slop. Reinstall your set screws, preferably aluminum ones, and use them to adjust out any slop or play in the pivot balls.

This had worked very well for me.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Love...This...Car.

Wow, simply wow.

Over the past weekend I decided to do a shakedown with my R125.2. Usually a "shakedown" requires some extra tuning to get the car on point. However, I wasn't totally ready for how well the car would handle straight out the box. No changes, from the bench to the track, and nothing else. I even used a donor body for this chassis, lol. With only a few minor tweaks such as CRC side springs, Team Prime damper, and a new battery configuration, I was already on pace for the A-main.

The car was so easy, predictable, and FAST!

I managed to qualify 2nd for the A-main in 1/12th 21.5 2 cell (Japan). This class has a lot of extremely talented drivers, there are multiple Japan National/AOC A-main drivers to battle against. Which is great because they set a high bench mark. With them, you'll notice if your setup is off.

Unfortunately I geared a little too much and the car started to fade at the end. But, the car was so smooth, so fast, so consistent. The drivers in the A-main were all running the same motors and roll out (76 mm), I on the other hand was running 93 mm..... A little too big.

I'm definitely getting another one for modified

HappyHippo

iTrader: (12)

Anyone that can point me in direction of who is making battery brace for running the batteries crossover for the R5.2

Scott_T

iTrader: (5)

I used the one from the TOP rebel. See my post here - http://www.rctech.net/forum/14334261-post769.html

Raced it Saturday night and had some good spills but the battery stayed nice and secure. Would be nice to cut the brace out of carbon fibre, would look more trick!

Reflex Racing also makes a conversion kit.

Cheers,

stankulas

search crazed builds on the net he has them and is making chassis and other things for this car also rc madness has some for sale in enfield ct guys at the track are running his parts

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

Krazed Builds



He has the chassis kits too (2.5mm) that bolt up to the stock rear pod, use transverse battery, floating servo and let you use stock links or Xray ones.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

We also sell a transverse kit for the 12 R5. http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-AE-12R5-Transverse-Conversion-Kit_p_2367.html
Looked up the krazed conversion, once again, flattered that people are copying our ideas! This means we are doing something right. 😊 and seriously, no sarcasm intended.

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

I believe I'll try one of your transverse kits

Cosmo

iTrader: (5)

I had one in my car. Worked well.

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

Getting ready for my next purchase... electronics for the RC12R5.2.

This is what I have decided on.

Reedy Blackbox 410R 1S-2S ESC w/program box
Mylaps Hybrid RC4 (2-wire) transponder
Futaba 3PL or 3PM-X
CRC or Reedy 1S Lipo battery/s

One thing I'm unsure of... will I need a RX battery?

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

Nope the blackBox will go down to 1s which is all you need

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the info!

ModularGT

Looking to upgrade to this car from an old CRC GenX. I'm changing because a lot of the parts for my car and the XTi are now discontinued.

As for this car, is there any parts that are discontinued? Can I use my CRC front and rear ride height adjusters?
I know about the RSD transverse battery option, how does the car work with the battery inline?
Once I order the kit, are there any tuning parts I should get with it?

Scott_T

iTrader: (5)

Parts seem to be readily available.

CRC rear ride height adjusters should work, I use them in mine. Not sure if the fronts will.

Car works fine with battery inline, I only changed mine to make it easier to get the pack in and out.

I bought mine used, so didn't get everything that was in the kit. But the front ride height shims and king pin shims are useful. Maybe some silver side springs and various damper tube lubes. The only thing I have broken (and I crash a lot!) is the rollover mast and steering blocks.

NomadRacer

iTrader: (9)

The Slapmaster #109 thurst bearing kit was recommended to me. There's a seller on ebay that's "chop shopping" new R125.2 kits. Parts 30-40-50% off retail. I've picked up a few parts at great prices.