oladele

I couldn't post a pic, don't know how to but the battery brace is not designed to go "over" the battery, if you look closely at Adrian's pic the battery sits in between the two prongs that stick out the from and rear braces and is secured using battery tape.

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

Superb Speedo, give me a PB with the motor and your e-mail and all try to give you a set-up.

Regards Robert

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

Isn't this due to the bumps which could fall in the old style battery slots? You can dremel the bumps away, or just flip the battery up side down. Or isn't it due to the bumps?

Regards Robert

oddski

Q1: what is the purpose of three bellville washers on 5.2, over the prior single?
Q2: how do you get the center shock long enough with total 5mm ballstud washers. Tried with 2x2 but rear chassis got too low, blue spring - turned all in. I would like some more offpower steering.

I have a 5.1 lipo and speedmerchant damper tube kit.

oladele

Question 2) Most people I'm aware of don't use the AE center shock, they use either the Hotbodies or IRS center shock. I personally run the Hotbodies shock.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

Q1: The belleville washers on the diff allow you more adjustment range when setting the diff. Without them a tiny change turning the nut affects the performance of the diff.

Q2: I like the stock thru shock. Its stays air free longer than bladder shocks and there is no rebound. I do find you need lighter oil than with other shocks (25-27.5wt). To get the droop you want you need to un-thread the end of the shock that attaches to the pod ball stud, ball cup. The blue alloy piece there has a square milled into it that you can adjust with the included turnbuckle wrench making the shock longer or shorter. You just stick it in between the spring coils and turn it. Very slick!

I like to put my chassis on droop blocks and adjust the shock so the tail end of the rear pod is around -1 to -1.5 on the droop gauge.

I to am running SpeedMerchange Tube Spooge. I like the Green Spooge on my 5.2. I hear it is around 10k to 15k wt.

mitrovic

Thanks. So my battery is some milimeters too far to the front!
In the back there is the chassis brace!
And right now studiyng the posts, the pictures and the manual, I notice my stupid ( ! ) mistake! I mixed left and right on the chassis brace!
What a stupid mistake not to see that!

Thanks! So now I go to change it!

mitrovic

OK The battery is now in its correct place. However I still hate that I have to unscrew to be able to change the battery.

I reduced the diameter of the front tyres, so the flipping problem is better, too. I will reduce the diameter of the tyres even further.

I ve done thorough testing on the track yesterday ( 250 rounds ) and have been to improve the car and my driving style a little bit. My best lap is now at 11.035. That is two seconds faster then at the roll out, but still 3 seconds slower then the track record ( however it is a modified car which has the track recors and I'm driving stock )

Next step will be reducing tyres further and programing the auto brake on the LRP Sxxx ESC. The Vortex ESC is still in the box. I wull use it after the first which is set for 19th january.

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

There are people who are filing the left tabs of the front and rear brace, so they can slide the battery in place.

For less traction rolling try to reduce camber, drive 10 deg reactive.

Regards Robert

mitrovic

Well, now it is 10,9 sec. Still a long way to go.

I have programmed the ESC ( LRP SXX Version 2 ) for auto braking, but I do not see any difference

Then I lost the front right axle. It did unscrew. I don't like how the axle is mounted on this car. It s a pain to refix it. E.g. how do you unclip the turnbuckles without destroying the geometry or braking some part? And why is the front axle hold with such a small screw?

I worked on the differential, I think I have it right now.

Besides of that the car is robust. Next time I will reduce the diameter of the tyres further.

oladele

In regards to your tire diameter I would shoot for Around 43 rear 42 front

oladele

Make sure after Every race to check and tighten Every screw on the bottom of your chassis. On these cars you don't want to use thread lock so with the vibration of racing after a couple of races screws get loose and fall out so always give it a once over before laying down some more hot laps

mitrovic

Thank you!

Right now it is about 47 and 45. Next time I will reduce it!

Right now I have a roll out of 64

I do check the screws, but those screws for the front axle ( not the front suspension ) are really hard to get.

Working on a new body. Should be much better then the first one!

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

Cut at 43/41!!!!! Dialed.

Lohan

I am thinking of upgrading my R5.1, and there are a few options:

1. get the associated in line upgrade kit;
2. get the british 'team doris chassis'
3. Get the CEFX Griffin
4. Get the On Point Lipo chassis
5. Get the ON POINT kit

tell me your thoughts