Best Car to buy at the moment..
#1
Best Car to buy at the moment..
I do not want to make people fight with this post ..However there are quite a few cars which seem very nice. Capricorn seems very good car however i dont know how it is compared to other cars in terms of reliability durability and other factors and what is the support.
There are also:
mugen
serpent
Kyosho
Xray with the new pro version
Shepherd
Can anyone give me some advice?
Thanks a lot..!!
There are also:
mugen
serpent
Kyosho
Xray with the new pro version
Shepherd
Can anyone give me some advice?
Thanks a lot..!!
#2
I do not want to make people fight with this post ..However there are quite a few cars which seem very nice. Capricorn seems very good car however i dont know how it is compared to other cars in terms of reliability durability and other factors and what is the support.
There are also:
mugen
serpent
Kyosho
Xray with the new pro version
Shepherd
Can anyone give me some advice?
Thanks a lot..!!
There are also:
mugen
serpent
Kyosho
Xray with the new pro version
Shepherd
Can anyone give me some advice?
Thanks a lot..!!
Kyosho has fallen to the way side, the decision should be based on what others run at your track and your expectations. They all break when they come to a sudden stop, most have quirks all of them need a Hi performance engine to make them tick and finally it's up to which you like most!
PS: My son loved his Shepherd and would bag out his brother's Capricorn for fun, then he drove one and the mocking stopped abruptly...
#4
Thanks a lot blis..
Both 1/8 and 1/10..
Both 1/8 and 1/10..
#6
what bout Motonica?
#7
#8
#9
Don't get me wrong, in Europe they're big. But in the US, they're a bit "boutique". But in the long run, what 1/8th scale isn't? Motonica is just a bit off the beaten path in comparison to mugen/Xray/Serpent...
I run the pan car (P8C) and it's tough as nails and drives really well. I'm just lucky that there are quite a few in our club, which if I do break something, makes it a bit easier to hunt down a part in the pit.
As long as you're willing to stock your pit bag with enough spares to fix minor "incidents", You'll love the car (I am assuming you are referring to the P81RS and not the P8C).
I run the pan car (P8C) and it's tough as nails and drives really well. I'm just lucky that there are quite a few in our club, which if I do break something, makes it a bit easier to hunt down a part in the pit.
As long as you're willing to stock your pit bag with enough spares to fix minor "incidents", You'll love the car (I am assuming you are referring to the P81RS and not the P8C).
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Full line of Motonica RS2 parts available here http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...dl&filter_cat= , and several shops on the east coast are now also stocking parts. You can also order direct and have parts in 2 days. Can't use parts supply as an excuse anymore. And really, what 1/8th 4wd on road racer doesn't have a bag full of parts, no matter the brand of car they run?
Pick whatever brand of car you like the most, they are all good cars. If you choose Motonica for 1/8th, you can count on service and support from me.
Pick whatever brand of car you like the most, they are all good cars. If you choose Motonica for 1/8th, you can count on service and support from me.
#11
Full line of Motonica RS2 parts available here http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...dl&filter_cat= , and several shops on the east coast are now also stocking parts. You can also order direct and have parts in 2 days. Can't use parts supply as an excuse anymore. And really, what 1/8th 4wd on road racer doesn't have a bag full of parts, no matter the brand of car they run?
Pick whatever brand of car you like the most, they are all good cars. If you choose Motonica for 1/8th, you can count on service and support from me.
Pick whatever brand of car you like the most, they are all good cars. If you choose Motonica for 1/8th, you can count on service and support from me.
#12
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Try Motonica for 1/8 on-road. Some says it's the Lambo of 1/8 on-road car and I could not afford to oposse that and here's the reason why?
Scuderia Motonica '12, the P81 RS2:
When it comes to performance, it's a beast too. I maximized my time, building, studying and figuring the right set-up for it to fit here in our track (local). I upgraded it with some updates except for the new kevlar belts and partnered with the best engine, Vox.
HTH. Cheers
Scuderia Motonica '12, the P81 RS2:
When it comes to performance, it's a beast too. I maximized my time, building, studying and figuring the right set-up for it to fit here in our track (local). I upgraded it with some updates except for the new kevlar belts and partnered with the best engine, Vox.
HTH. Cheers
#14
Don't get me wrong, in Europe they're big. But in the US, they're a bit "boutique". But in the long run, what 1/8th scale isn't? Motonica is just a bit off the beaten path in comparison to mugen/Xray/Serpent...
I run the pan car (P8C) and it's tough as nails and drives really well. I'm just lucky that there are quite a few in our club, which if I do break something, makes it a bit easier to hunt down a part in the pit.
As long as you're willing to stock your pit bag with enough spares to fix minor "incidents", You'll love the car (I am assuming you are referring to the P81RS and not the P8C).
I run the pan car (P8C) and it's tough as nails and drives really well. I'm just lucky that there are quite a few in our club, which if I do break something, makes it a bit easier to hunt down a part in the pit.
As long as you're willing to stock your pit bag with enough spares to fix minor "incidents", You'll love the car (I am assuming you are referring to the P81RS and not the P8C).
It's quick as hell and most importantly easy to set up.
It's one of the last "plastic cars" which is great. No expensive aluminum bulkheads that bend or break so easily and the car doesn't tweak.
With the new front end of the RSē the car became even more nimble.
Where we race, we started the season with 2 Motonica and now we are already up to 5 cars with more people looking to change for next year.
#15
I believe there is more room on a 1:8 scale to have the scope for design differences and evolution, in 1:10th things are a little more cramped and most cars have evolved similarly. And from a drivers point of view I'm stoked components from other cars will fit a C0-1. For performance you cant go past less rotating mass. The 2 speeds and transmission is smaller, diffs are smaller and this lends itself to failures. I cant speak for Serpents, I almost bought one myself, it was the predecessor to the 747 and what i found was that while the car was great value out of the box, the Race Spec upgrades bridged the gap in costs.
We opted for the V10 through parts availability. The build tolerances weren't great and it took a little experience to get it together. Grubs screws falling out etc, so best know how to build a tight car for V10.
Things changed and we lost availability and switched to the Capricorn. It's the best car for us, it's race spec out of the box, nice to work on and a better car than we are a team. It's important to be realistic and if everyone's running Xrays, V10's or 747's and you aren't going to TQ, you best add to the parts in the garage and enjoy racing.
The most expensive part of RC, is a DNF.
We opted for the V10 through parts availability. The build tolerances weren't great and it took a little experience to get it together. Grubs screws falling out etc, so best know how to build a tight car for V10.
Things changed and we lost availability and switched to the Capricorn. It's the best car for us, it's race spec out of the box, nice to work on and a better car than we are a team. It's important to be realistic and if everyone's running Xrays, V10's or 747's and you aren't going to TQ, you best add to the parts in the garage and enjoy racing.
The most expensive part of RC, is a DNF.