puddleofmud

I'm considering buying one or the other but which one is better?

The aim is to race outside on road. Are there any weak points on either car and what hop-ups are needed or are benificial?

koabich

I run the 415 but have never touched an EVO4. I would say that the MS and the EVO4 are close to being the same (performance wise) as they have the same suspension and same thickness chassis. I would say that the decision would come down to whether you prefer belts or shafts.

I do know that the EVO4 doesn't come with alot of the option parts that the MS comes with. I also hear it doesn't come with alot of the different suspension blocks that the MS comes with. You may want to wait though as the EVO4 MS version is scheduled to be released very soon!

jw92656

I have both. Been driving the EVO 4, but haven't completed the 415ms I bought. From what I have read the EVO 4 excels on tight courses, as the shaft gives more direct power to the wheels. The belts from I am told, and have read have a slightly higher top end. I upgraded everything on my EVO, and I would stay away from front aluminum hubs, and steering arms. They slowed the steering down, and I haven't been able to sort it out yet? Add any other hop up and you shouldn't have a problem.

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Slows the steering down?? I've been pretty happy with them and I swear by them. I don't seem to have any steering lag. What sort of servo do you use?? I'm using a Futaba S9550 and it still flies just as much as it did with the plastic parts, but of course, I can finish a hell of a lot more races.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

check your screws. maybe you shimmed it too tight.. or tightened down the screws too much and its binding. i borrowed a friend's 415 that had this problem. i removed one shim from each post..and it freed up the steering.

make sure the screws on the c-hub/steering knuckle isnt too tight either.

jw92656

It definately adds durability. I run at a local indoor track that is semi tight (SoCal, CA -USA) at it just sucks there. I would get smoked if I raced it there, that why I have been racing offroad only. I also run at Tamiya's track at there headquarters, where it is much larger. There it doesn't have any big issues, but I still see it turning slower than it had before I added them. I have had 3 other frinds of mine with increadibly more experience help me try to sort it out, and that's the only thing we can come up with.

jw92656

Thanks Hebiki I'll try that, but our only conclusion from the way the car looks is that the weight is making the car push wide coming into the corners. I am running Sorex 32's w/ green HPI inserts, and a Novak brushless 5800. My servo is an Airtronics 357. I am thinking of going to Sorex 28's / greens to try and get more bite?

ChadCapece

I think you have a setup issue. To check this, take off the steering turnbuckle and rotate the aluminium hubs. Do they feel like they are tight? If so then it is a shimming issue. If not, then you have a setup issue. Maybe you had some down time between your plastic parts and adding your aluminium, and the track temp has greatly changed.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

since you run at Socal and Tamiya USA... post your set up here... there are several TRF guys on rctech (dan garber, ron canare, and ej evans along with a few others) that can get you dialed on both tracks.

definitely follow the previous posts. sounds like you have something binding thats preventing the steering knuckles from turning. either that or a set up thats causing your car to push.

jw92656

Ran at Tamiya. I sorted out the glitching I was having with the Yokomo Noise killer kit, and I CA glued the edges of the chassis. I received an Email from Airtronics, and they said sometimes there radio's go out but might need some extra tuning, and to send it back. I am running the brushless 5800 by Novak. I forgot to set the ESC to the #4 preset program, as it was set on #2. 4 offers a little more motor breaking off the throttle. So I am hoping this resolves my issues. Thanks for the help. Here is my current setup. Front caster 2 deg. Front camber 1 deg. Front toe 0 deg. Rear camber 1 deg. Rear toe 4 deg (stock). Basic setup, turning issues are happening at low, and high speed corners.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

jw92656, you were at Tamiya America this Saturday? I was the guy with the blue Calsonic sedan doing a lot of crashing If you need any help with setup, just bring the car over and see if we can sort it out.

Is this the Evo4 and what kind of "turning issues" are you having?

FYI, I could never get Sorex Anything with HPI Green inserts to work well (decent but not dialed) at the Tamiya track, so it could be a simple case of tire/insert selection.

jw92656

Yeah I was there for about 1 hr. I had the gold Opel sedan body. Crashing a little too; unfortunately.. Yeah my car pushes alot in the corners. It has been a gremlim of mine for a little while. I think changing the to the #4 Novak preset with a little more brake will fix it ? If not, I will definately seek you out for some advise. The guys that run there are always so helpful, thanks.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

I remember back when the Novak brushless system came out that we had to change our setups to overcome the lack of magnetic braking from the brushless motors to help with turn in. Also, is that the Tamiya Opel body or the Protoform version. In any case, I would look into getting a more race oriented body such as the Protoform Mazda6 (it works well at both Tamiya and Socal)

I would also suggest that you look through the existingEvo4 Thread and post there.

jw92656

Yeah I am using the Protoform Opel body. That is the exact issue I am running into. Lack of motor braking isn't allowing the car to apex the corner hard enough. Nice to know I haven't been the only one. Do you remember what helped to turn the car in harder? As posted previously I changed the preset program from #2 w/ Min Braking=Low, to #4 w/ Min Braking=High. I haven't tried it yet. Next weekend I hope to have this sorted out. But am I on the right track? Thanks.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

I do not believe that changing the profile to a higher min brake will help with turn in or cornering. That setting typically affects how the brakes feel when you get on them and has nothing to do with "drag brakes" that would simulate how a normal motor would feel. I think Novak is working on a newer version that includes a setting that'll make your car feel like it has a standard motor in it.