8LikesYOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
12-28-2012, 05:07 PM
#1426
Can someone explain whats the point on installing BD-010RW Rear double joint universal shafts in the rear of, well, any car? other than having more moving parts to break, i really can't see how a regular CVD wouldn't work as well for the limited suspension movement the rear hubs and arms do...
I know all of the top guys use them, but what's the reason? It should not change the way the car handles, i get how the steering would work better, but in the rear?...
I know all of the top guys use them, but what's the reason? It should not change the way the car handles, i get how the steering would work better, but in the rear?...
12-28-2012, 07:04 PM
#1427
Hi,
normally racing 13.5 and last night tested a modified never had a so easy to drive car in modifiy stable and fast.
Have lack of middle and exit corner what should i test the car just the problem is when I push the throttle the front looks it is lift up and then the car just gos forward out of the corner.
thanks.
normally racing 13.5 and last night tested a modified never had a so easy to drive car in modifiy stable and fast.
Have lack of middle and exit corner what should i test the car just the problem is when I push the throttle the front looks it is lift up and then the car just gos forward out of the corner.
thanks.
12-28-2012, 08:47 PM
#1428
I still haven't recieved my kit yet, and i haven't even SEEN a BD5, ever, but after spending the week reading through the whole thread, i can say that the car is an improvement in handling and in durability. Also, now that Amains has support in the US, parts for the BD7 will be easier to get, and i'm sure you can get BD5 parts. There are also parts that are carry overs to the BD7 from the BD5, i remember reading something about the arms, rear carriers, the front C hubs from a BD5 fit on the BD7, but are more prone to break.
But you are right, the BD7 doesn't seem to have much breakage problems so far.
12-28-2012, 09:35 PM
#1430
I have both the BD5WX and the BD7. The BD5WX comes with all of the graphite arms, front knuckles and rear hubs in the kit. This makes the car stiffer out of the box. I use this car presently on carpet. I am still musing the standard 3.5 toe blocks FF and FR on the BD5WX. With the 6.4 rear toe block.
My BD7 is fitted with the plastic arms, front knuckles and rear hubs which I find suits our lower grip asphalt tracks. I am using the Tamiya DCJ's on this car with no issues. I have found them to be more durable than the Yokomo ones.
The best part about the two cars is they both use the same arms, knuckles, hubs, drive shafts, belts, spool and rear diff. The front front toe block and rear rear toe blocks are the same on both cars.
The BD7 c hubs will fit on the BD5 which makes for a stronger c hub, however these are plastic and not graphite. I believe the new c hubs are being released in graphite in the future.
I like both cars and can not tell you which is faster on the track as they are run in different classes and on different surfaces.
I am building a BD7 with all of the graphite parts minus the c hubs for TITC non boosted 13.5 next year. I am looking forward to running the car at RC Addict at this event on a high grip track. We have to run GT style bodies limited to Tamiya and HPI body shells.
To me all cars can be made to work, however you need to find a setup that works for your own individual driving style and the surface you are running on.
Later,
Calvin.
My BD7 is fitted with the plastic arms, front knuckles and rear hubs which I find suits our lower grip asphalt tracks. I am using the Tamiya DCJ's on this car with no issues. I have found them to be more durable than the Yokomo ones.
The best part about the two cars is they both use the same arms, knuckles, hubs, drive shafts, belts, spool and rear diff. The front front toe block and rear rear toe blocks are the same on both cars.
The BD7 c hubs will fit on the BD5 which makes for a stronger c hub, however these are plastic and not graphite. I believe the new c hubs are being released in graphite in the future.
I like both cars and can not tell you which is faster on the track as they are run in different classes and on different surfaces.
I am building a BD7 with all of the graphite parts minus the c hubs for TITC non boosted 13.5 next year. I am looking forward to running the car at RC Addict at this event on a high grip track. We have to run GT style bodies limited to Tamiya and HPI body shells.
To me all cars can be made to work, however you need to find a setup that works for your own individual driving style and the surface you are running on.
Later,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 12-28-2012 at 09:57 PM.
12-28-2012, 09:48 PM
#1431
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Can someone explain whats the point on installing BD-010RW Rear double joint universal shafts in the rear of, well, any car? other than having more moving parts to break, i really can't see how a regular CVD wouldn't work as well for the limited suspension movement the rear hubs and arms do...
I know all of the top guys use them, but what's the reason? It should not change the way the car handles, i get how the steering would work better, but in the rear?...
I know all of the top guys use them, but what's the reason? It should not change the way the car handles, i get how the steering would work better, but in the rear?...
12-28-2012, 09:58 PM
#1432
Thanks for the info Xpress. I might try a set of rear DCJ's on both my cars.
12-28-2012, 10:48 PM
#1433
I have both the BD5WX and the BD7. The BD5WX comes with all of the graphite arms, front knuckles and rear hubs in the kit. This makes the car stiffer out of the box. I use this car presently on carpet. I am still musing the standard 3.5 toe blocks FF and FR on the BD5WX. With the 6.4 rear toe block.
My BD7 is fitted with the plastic arms, front knuckles and rear hubs which I find suits our lower grip asphalt tracks. I am using the Tamiya DCJ's on this car with no issues. I have found them to be more durable than the Yokomo ones.
The best part about the two cars is they both use the same arms, knuckles, hubs, drive shafts, belts, spool and rear diff. The front front toe block and rear rear toe blocks are the same on both cars.
The BD7 c hubs will fit on the BD5 which makes for a stronger c hub, however these are plastic and not graphite. I believe the new c hubs are being released in graphite in the future.
I like both cars and can not tell you which is faster on the track as they are run in different classes and on different surfaces.
I am building a BD7 with all of the graphite parts minus the c hubs for TITC non boosted 13.5 next year. I am looking forward to running the car at RC Addict at this event on a high grip track. We have to run GT style bodies limited to Tamiya and HPI body shells.
To me all cars can be made to work, however you need to find a setup that works for your own individual driving style and the surface you are running on.
Later,
Calvin.
My BD7 is fitted with the plastic arms, front knuckles and rear hubs which I find suits our lower grip asphalt tracks. I am using the Tamiya DCJ's on this car with no issues. I have found them to be more durable than the Yokomo ones.
The best part about the two cars is they both use the same arms, knuckles, hubs, drive shafts, belts, spool and rear diff. The front front toe block and rear rear toe blocks are the same on both cars.
The BD7 c hubs will fit on the BD5 which makes for a stronger c hub, however these are plastic and not graphite. I believe the new c hubs are being released in graphite in the future.
I like both cars and can not tell you which is faster on the track as they are run in different classes and on different surfaces.
I am building a BD7 with all of the graphite parts minus the c hubs for TITC non boosted 13.5 next year. I am looking forward to running the car at RC Addict at this event on a high grip track. We have to run GT style bodies limited to Tamiya and HPI body shells.
To me all cars can be made to work, however you need to find a setup that works for your own individual driving style and the surface you are running on.
Later,
Calvin.
Oh I just realized that the floating servo mount is not included in the BD7 kit from looking at the manual. Is that true? The picture on the box has it though...
12-28-2012, 11:37 PM
#1434
gom,
Some shops are including the aluminium servo holder with the kit and others are making you purchase it as a seperate part. Both of my kits included the part. I also ordered the extra split blocks for my car, as a tuning option.
I may even see if it will fit my BD5WX. Never know unless I try.
Later,
Calvin.
Some shops are including the aluminium servo holder with the kit and others are making you purchase it as a seperate part. Both of my kits included the part. I also ordered the extra split blocks for my car, as a tuning option.
I may even see if it will fit my BD5WX. Never know unless I try.
Later,
Calvin.
12-28-2012, 11:52 PM
#1435
gom,
Some shops are including the aluminium servo holder with the kit and others are making you purchase it as a seperate part. Both of my kits included the part. I also ordered the extra split blocks for my car, as a tuning option.
I may even see if it will fit my BD5WX. Never know unless I try.
Later,
Calvin.
Some shops are including the aluminium servo holder with the kit and others are making you purchase it as a seperate part. Both of my kits included the part. I also ordered the extra split blocks for my car, as a tuning option.
I may even see if it will fit my BD5WX. Never know unless I try.
Later,
Calvin.
12-28-2012, 11:57 PM
#1436
Thanks Dan. I was just going to file the locating lug off.
I found the post in the BD5 thread. Might try it in the future.
I found the post in the BD5 thread. Might try it in the future.
Last edited by caltek1; 12-29-2012 at 12:10 AM.
12-29-2012, 07:17 PM
#1440
I use the black bladder and blue seal on the bottom and haven't had one leak.
Not that I had a leak with the clear bladder and black seal but still.
I haven't played with all the cars shocks but I would put these in the top of the class hands down with my experience. I've had the car since the first run.