capellone24

did it myself



in red 2014,in black 2015.

so bulkhead holes have different spacing.

2uzferunner03

Nice. Thanks

Zhangesh

iTrader: (23)

Hi all, just about to begin my 2015 build. Any tips on building it? Currently I have:

Shocks: Black bladders (YS-8HD), 2 x blue o-rings (YS-7HG) with thin collar (BD-S2W)
Diff: As kit build specs but soaking o-rings in shock oil for a few hours first. Also sand gears down using 300 grit sandpaper

Is this correct? Much appreciated for any response.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Well if you haven't done so already, pick up front DCJ's and a decent servo mount. Stock turnbuckles aren't the best either...

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

It's not strange, sometimes a questions is ask over and over again and quick search may be the remedy.

The SSS and SLF question.

The SSS shock shaft is for the older 2013 BD7 and below and I believe is similar to the BD5 also. It is a different shock assembly compared to the SLF

The SLF is a hard anodized aluminum body that came with the 2014-2015. There may be a slight increase in volume, I don't remember. I never tried or care to swap parts between the old and new shocks. Two versions of this the standard and short and both can be used with standard touring car springs.

2uzferunner03

I read every page of this forum and exhausted Google search before asking about the chassis.

I have the blue 14 that came with blue alloy parts on the shocks. Does that mean their the sss shocks? Only reason I even care is because I want to get the tini shock shafts for them.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

You have the non SLF shocks, they do make the titanium nitride coated shaft for those also, same ones thats always used on the BD5.

YS-53S-4T is the part number.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

If you have experience building onroad cars it's fairly easy. Everyone has their own way of doing things. One of the most important things is to make sure everything moves freely...suspensions arms, spool, diff, turnbuckles etc. I usually have to had shims on the bearings at the front spool to take away some free play. Me personally I don't bother soaking the orings and sanding diffs. I don't have issues with leak diffs because I use yokomo sealing grease on the gasket area and dow 55 on the orings. Since we're discussing shocks, just make sure they're symmetric from left to right.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

The gear diff bearings fit very tightly on the housing. Before you build the diff, you may want to wrap some 600 or so sandpaper around the bearing seat to twist and sand it down a bit. That should prevent any possible binding. Just keep checking and make sure you don't sand it down too much.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Anyone had this problem ? Anyone have the RS ?

2uzferunner03

I don't have the rs but I would think if the ff mount is bent it would be impossible to bolt upto the chassis.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

The screws go in to the front and rear mounts, but on the left side there is about 2mm movement of the arm on the pivot pin. When you look at the pattern on the carbon fibre chassis, you can see that the mounts aren't straight.

Zhangesh

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for the tips, I have dcj's, ti turnbuckles and the floating servo mount. Just completed the build though and I noticed the rear diff feels much heavier compared to other diffs. I have 3000 oil in there and it feels like a 5000?? I replaced kit red o-rings with Kyosho ORG05 and removed the smaller outer o-rings.

Also, how to people build the shocks to be zero rebound? I tried a number of different techniques that I used to do on my xray shocks but I still seem to have 10-20% rebound and there is also a tin bit of negative rebound when the shaft is fully extended.

evochick

iTrader: (5)

Did you sand the dimples off the back of the diff gears as well. Might be a little tight to start with but will free up

Zhangesh

iTrader: (23)

Yeah sanded all the gears down, I think it may be the o-rings, they're a bit tight on the outdrives. First race day tomorrow, i'll see if it breaks in