Philipp1990

Use Xenon or Much More Grease for inside the Blocks! Or AE white Diff Grease!

Very smooth and not that sticky like the black grease from AE!

For shocks iīve only use a drop of silicone oil on the o-rings...

Every good damper leaks a little bit because of low friction between the shock shaft and the o-rings...

So i rebuild my dampers every time i drive, so every morning before the race run and maybe twice a day...

Using a shock pump and itīs done in a few minutes!

Nuno Gancho

iTrader: (1)

Is there a chart for the different suspension mounts lengths used on the front and rear for the toe in.

Mr. MR4

iTrader: (8)

..

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

I like your style. I really want one of those pumps.

Nuno Gancho

iTrader: (1)

Mr.MR4 thanks.

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

well I ran the car box stock today. I ran a 48 dollar speed control. Then my usual Trinity Battery/Motor combo. Tq and Win. I can't get over how smooth and easy this car is to drive. I still think the car tweaks a little easy but I'm gonna throw a servo saver on it and see it that helps some the issues I've had. I think my Horn skipped a tooth in the main when I got tapped. I was scrambling setting the tracking on the car down the back straight.

So simply put I have yet to drive a car that is quite like this one.

Biggest two tips if your putting this car together. Install the Battery guides(Optional) and make sure you sand the strapping tape area to round it. But thats to be said with any car.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

No offense, but that chart doesn't make sense on the Front combo's.... surely 42.0FR/44.2FF should give 1.0, and 42.0/43.5 should give 0.5... otherwise the other jumps between blocks don't tally up.

cyclonetog

Ed,
42.0 , 42.0 = 0deg (obviously)

42.0 , 43.5 = 1deg (43.5 is 1.5mm more than 42.0)

42.0 , 44.2 = 1.5deg (44.2 is 0.7mm more than 43.5)

Hinge pins moving through arcs would make it less linear than that but at such small angles that can probably be ignored.

It's basically saying that every 0.75mm is worth about half a degree.

cyclonetog

To put it in Tamiya terms.

Let's assume the FR block is a Tamiya X.
There is no FF Tamiya A available, the chart is using a B and a C.

You can however get a FR A block and make 0.5deg with a FF B block.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Gotcha, was early in the morning and I wasn't paying attention to the numbers... :P

Velocitygt

iTrader: (4)

How are you guys achieving zero rebound on the shocks like most of the setup sheets state? Drilling caps?

kiloolli

Here are a new Setup Sheet from my last outdoor Race this Year. Easy to Drive despite the problematic 30X Tires.

Stilo

I ran the car both days on carpet during the weekend. The quality of the car really is great. Easier to built than Tamiya Iīve used to run, I really didnīt expect that. The manual is a bit hard to understand a few time, but not too bad. Only the rear suspension arms needed a bit filing to get the rear hubs move more freely. I built it to the base carpet setup, but with pink front springs and a bit softer shock oil and stock plastics.

At our local club where we have quite low grip the car would need a bit more rear traction to get a bit easier to drive. Yesterday at a bigger and about medium grip track the car was awesome. Tons of steering and the rear end is still planted. It is really smooth and easy to drive. I stripped the threads on the plastic front hub and changed to graphite arms and front steering block. The limit of the grip became more clear and the car was more on edge, but at the same time it was a bit easier to drive a tight and clean line. I think Iīm going to use the graphite parts for now on, but the plastic stuff may be easier for less experienced drivers. On the last heat I changed to blue front springs and it was even better. I managed to run first 6 laps of the heat under 0,1s from each other, so really easy to run consistent laptimes as you donīt need to push the car to get it round the track.

Overall, really happy with the car so far!

mikeygar

iTrader: (14)

was going to try that since the new caps are plastic and with the BD5 it was very hard since the caps were aluminium.

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

My spare pistons came in so I was finally able to drill them out to 1.1 except the closest drill bit I have measured 1.08 so it's not exact.