RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Tamiya are a nice option, not that I ever had a failure on the Yokomo ones
They don't need to be that tight

Jorge T

iTrader: (14)

Are You using the carbon pieces? Also the pin should keep the hex from crushing the hub.

I have run both sets back to back on carpet (17.5T) and end up running the normal shocks because I feel it makes the car easier to drive. Only under very high grip conditions I'll switch over to the short shocks.

The xray shock cant be compared to the short Yoks. The Yok is a short version of the normal with less oil volume. The xray is bigger bore with same volume(oil) as a normal (tall) shock

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

I thought they were strong I cant see how you could break them easily, perhaps a faulty part?

Bar

iTrader: (1)

I cracked a hex recently by over tightening one, I know a few others who have also done this, you do have to be a little careful with them

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I've cracked a hub/hex as well on my blue BD7. Just don't over tighten them. Just a light touch is needed. I did use a Tamiya hex until my spare came in. It was a tight fit I think. Or was it loose? I forget. I'm wondering if the old style Yokomo hexes will fit? I think they were on the original BD7. They were held in place by an oring.

Moving to the short shock discussion, I ran them back to back as well on low/med bite carpet. The normal shocks ran better. You can find my post several pages back, months ago. No need to waste money on them unless if you run stock class on a high bite surface, then they might be worth a try if you have money to toss around.

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

Fair enough still surprised they have broken easily.

niznai

Your wheel hex should be stopped by the pin, but just in case, you can use bearing spacers inside the hub carrier (between the bearings' inner races) so you don't "pinch" the bearings and snap the carrier.

To check if you still have some clearance after doing up the wheels you can give them a tug and watch where they move. If the axle is moving in and out, then you should have some clearance between hex and bearing.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

So I take it I did not need to order the complete short shock package? Can I at least use the carbon shock towers that come with it? I plan on running 17.5 stock on carpet.

fasfury

thanks for the replies about short shock issue, I cleared my mind. I have one more question: What about the steering bridge? Sometimes I use it sometimes I dont. I am wondering that when it should be used ; high or low traction? In a technical indoor or outdoor with long straights and sweepers? Should the car bend(flex) more in high grip or low grip?

JR Race

Best car EVER I've loved since I first raced it.

100% better than Xray

cyba888

frozenpod

iTrader: (1)

ROFL, both are great cars.

marcvanderzon

Thanks for the replies on short shocks so far. Has anyone run them on asphalt? I run on a med to high traction asphalt track.

Thanks

nepiman

iTrader: (7)

Please someone tell me.
Why it's different between the Protoform LTC-R body in shop and Ronald volker's PF LTC-R at ETS Race?
Where can I find Ronald Volker's PF LTC-R body?

cyclonetog

What do you think is different about it? Looks standard to me...