172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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08-09-2016, 09:07 PM
The exotek one fits under the laydown trans
08-09-2016, 10:37 PM
Correct guys, the newer "B" alum block is machined to fit under the laydown transmission. otherwise the old block fits fine wth the stand up transmission cases.
08-10-2016, 04:17 AM
08-10-2016, 08:43 AM
I can take measurements of the new piece if you guys want to grind your old one down.
It would be cool to see Kyosho do a trade in program for a piece like this that they are obviously modifying. No sense in wasting the older pieces, although I know a lot of guys will run the RB6 for a while. Still an awesome car. Most of the new parts bolt on.
Hope this helps!
It would be cool to see Kyosho do a trade in program for a piece like this that they are obviously modifying. No sense in wasting the older pieces, although I know a lot of guys will run the RB6 for a while. Still an awesome car. Most of the new parts bolt on.
Hope this helps!
08-10-2016, 08:49 AM
I built mine up last night and although it is very obviously warped it goes together and the transmission is pretty smooth. I don't notice any binding. It's a bit tough to get the long screws into the motor plate due to the bind but I think maybe after it's been bolted together for a bit it may start to come into the proper shape. Either way mine spins pretty well and I think it will really open up once the bearings break in a bit. Hope you have good luck with your's too!
So I was just about to start the step 44 where you start to assemble the transmission and was messing around with the case seeing how it looks before I assemble it and found that the molds are not straight. Again these are two empty cases that I just stuck together. Even after forcing it to close the gaps you can see a hole where dirt can easily get in. What would you do?
This is a picture of one side on a flat surface. You can see where it isn't touching. Same for the other side just one is more than the other.
You can see the gap even after closing the two cases. You can actually se thru the cases which can't be good.
This is a picture of one side on a flat surface. You can see where it isn't touching. Same for the other side just one is more than the other.
You can see the gap even after closing the two cases. You can actually se thru the cases which can't be good.
08-10-2016, 08:59 AM
I just finished the build and haven't taken it to the track yet. First impressions aren't as good as I thought it was gonna be. Stripped more screws building the car than I've ever experienced in my life(Kyosho titanium screws suck) with brand new hand tools too. Seems to be a little on the heavy side. My YZ2 is in a league of its own I guess. As you can see from my user name, I'm a Kyosho guy. My first race car being a Ultima EP Type R and have had almost every K car and boat since.
Currently waiting on a few more titanium goodies to come in but this is my RB6.6 as it sits.
3 Gear lay down transmission
Titanium screws
5mm front and rear Carbon Fiber shock towers
Aluminum gunmetal wheel nuts
Aluminum front suspension block type B
Aluminum steering assembly with steering support UMW724
Aluminum rear 0 degree hubs
Aluminum battery post and thumb screws
Aluminum rear suspension holder
Yokomo spur gear cover(cause it looks great with all the other gunmetal lol)
Not to mention this was built with all aluminum washers not the plastic ones for more bling lol
One hella expensive roller here!
08-10-2016, 10:01 AM
I take it we can use the new B version with the stand up cases as well? In the part description it says for laydown trans only.
08-10-2016, 01:36 PM
Derry, it will work.
DriveKyosho, speaking from personal experience remove the aluminum washers from the rear hubs. They will rub against each other and that will not be good. You are better of using the plastic washers instead.
DriveKyosho, speaking from personal experience remove the aluminum washers from the rear hubs. They will rub against each other and that will not be good. You are better of using the plastic washers instead.
08-10-2016, 01:53 PM
Derry: Yeah, the B Version will work with all the transmission cases.
@DriveKyosho: what the brace you are using on the top of your steering columns? I want!
@DriveKyosho: what the brace you are using on the top of your steering columns? I want!
08-10-2016, 01:56 PM
Good call I'll get those changed out before I run it
08-10-2016, 01:57 PM
08-10-2016, 03:43 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
That's because titanium screws have absolutely no place in the hobby, but we the racers have sucked them up like crazy because 99% of people think/research before buying: more expensive = better
08-10-2016, 04:52 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Well, there is no denying the fun of Ti. You just have to keep in mind that While Japanese Ti screws are better than Chinese, neither are as good a American Ti.
08-10-2016, 04:57 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Has anyone tried the exotec carbon chassis?
08-10-2016, 05:10 PM
Back when I quit racing in the early 90's it was all about aluminum screw kits. Honestly never had a problem with aluminum screws as long as you only used them in non-critical areas and replaced them once worn. There is quite a difference in different titanium manufacturers but some things stay constant. Titanium doesn't flex like steel or aluminum. It breaks. With as many ball studs as I've broken I'd never go titanium. For all the non-critical screws I wouldn't be afraid of aluminum at all. What's the weight difference to go all titanium anyway? Then guys go all titanium and buy brass arm hangers and chassis weights? Maybe once I get my top 15 laps within 2 tenths I'll think differently....