Originally Posted by Kraig

I thought I remember you saying that you will use the car for more than just driving it around the track so with that thought in mind I think they will do just fine. When buying batteries, usually, the higher the Mah the longer the run time.

Now the racer in me wants to inform you that almost everyone is running shorty packs now but don't let that stop you from running saddles. Saddle packs tend to have more capacity than a shorty so you will have a lot of time having fun.

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Anything can blow a ball differential if it is not maintained or set properly. I would recommend that you read the How To Properly Build And Break In a Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch thread. You might already know this but it is a nice refresher.



I would go with aluminum if you can. I don't know if one type of metal wears the plastic faster or not but it is nice to have less rotating mass.

You must have used a lot of grease building the diff. Not a big deal because any excess grease will just get spun off the differential. As for the gears, I run mine dry but adding grease should not hurt it but it will attract dirt so you may have to clean it more frequently.

Originally Posted by bubbaslash

OMG Reroy...that's a freakin' hilarious username. There's gotta be a "FAIL" story behind it. Please share

Originally Posted by tps3443

Kyosho RB6 15'
Team Orion R10 Pro
Trinity D4 6.5T 40°
Hitec 7955TG servo
J'concepts barcodes/brocodes tires


Waiting on my KO-Propo EX-1 Radio! I lost the receiver to my base model Flysky. And decided to just upgrade instead.

Everything soldered up, and ready to go! Just need a pinions, and servo horn screw.

Originally Posted by dmcguire

And keep an eye on your motor temps. I run about 10degrees timing in my 6.5 4wd motor. 40degrees may be a bit high.

Car looks great though, you'll love it.

Originally Posted by NastyNate88

Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.

Originally Posted by gunkis84

I just bought an sc6 and I'm trying to get the rear set with 3.5 deg of toe. What spacers would be needed to achieve this? Is there a chart online somewhere that will give the spacer/toe configurations?

Originally Posted by Kraig

Let us know how it goes. I have been thinking about getting one and using it on dirt with a 17.5.

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25

Using the stock setup, the RZ6 was the most loose car I have ever driven. I was able to get my Schumacher KF to work great at this track, so I'm confident I can get it to work. I'll be moving the speed control behind the motor, shocks to the rear of the a arms and 3.5 degrees of toe. The car is very light, so adding a little brass won't hurt.

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25

Using the stock setup, the RZ6 was the most loose car I have ever driven. I was able to get my Schumacher KF to work great at this track, so I'm confident I can get it to work. I'll be moving the speed control behind the motor, shocks to the rear of the a arms and 3.5 degrees of toe. The car is very light, so adding a little brass won't hurt.

Originally Posted by gokarter64

i found this spy shot from neobuggy of the new laydown trans case. it looks like you can change from 3 to 4 gear within the same case.



it also looks like the rear tower mounts up to the gearcase just like the yz2