eper

iTrader: (14)

thank ou. i changed up my entire wheel base width yesterday an will go and do some testing\racing tonight to see how it goes looking to make the car more stable but still have the car turn like i had it doing should be interesting

K_King

iTrader: (47)

I run the 3 line axles because the extra stability is awesome. I didnt lose any traction, if anything I felt like I gained some because the car would use the pivot better. I run C-in/C-in as well, and sometimes the rear end would dump over and and I would get loose. With the wider pivot you keep the roll you want but it wouldnt dump over either.

carpet Carlos

iTrader: (1)

How are you guys tighten your front axles I replaced bearings and when I tighten it binds and doesn't spin well

carpet Carlos

iTrader: (1)

Or building I looked at the manual 100 times I'm sure I built it right

ThePanda

iTrader: (68)

Are you using the stock wheels with the one piece front axles? Some wheels use a deeper hex, and will biND if used with the one piece hex axle.

cnelson3

iTrader: (66)

did you every try the flat arms with the longer axles? I'm curious if the longer axles would have numbed the car with those arms.

K_King

iTrader: (47)

One final setup.

Car has been really really good lately. Really stable and the best it's probably ever been for me.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...0RB6%20Nov.pdf

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Yeah I did. The flat arms just keep the rear end so flat through the corners I couldn't really get the roll I wanted. If the track is really high bite I could see them working better than the gullwing arms.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@K.King: what's the part number for the 3 line axles you mention? How do you have them shimmed? I have a new 2015B RB6 and I'm wondering which axles it came with. I've recently started using the AVID axles as they let me use different types of wheels but I'm not opposed to trying the 3 line for width adjustments. Have you measured the rear width at the wheels for your setup? Speaking of what wheels do you prefer?

Thanks in Advance!

K_King

iTrader: (47)

UM510 is the part number. I have it in the notes section as well.

I use the standard thin shim on the inside of the hub and then it's a 1.5 or 2mm external shim between the hub and the hex. LA253GM is the part for that.

When I run Cin and 3 line spaced out the car is right at the legal width or just slightly narrower.

I've always run Kyosho. I don't really trust other wheels with slightly different offsets.

Motorman007

iTrader: (89)

I see this on your sheet King

Sus Holder Spacer

F 0.5 R 0.5 checked
1.0 1.0
none none

do you put a shim under this rear hanger meaning .5 mm shim under the rear

Would you not want this shim in the Front hanger to get Anti-Squat?

also, where does it show to shim your rear arms forward or back or middle. meaning the arms that in the hanger part.

Thank you

K_King

iTrader: (47)

The wheelbase section is for both hubs and arms. Follow the lines to either or. It's a bit confusing. I shim my arms forward 2mm and run hubs in the middle.

Anti-Squat is done on the rear pivot because of the angle. The pin is higher on the F holder so you couldn't go lower there unless you made your own pills or holder.

Basically imagine the front pivot is locked and you are moving the rear up to level the pin out. The straighter the hingepin the less Anti Squat you have so you get more sidebite and an overall softer rear end.

I either run .5 on the bottom and .5 on the top or 0 on the bottom and 1mm on the top. I've tried 0 on the bottom and the rear gets really soft and doesn't work like I want it to.

Technically only the bottom shim affects anti squat. The one between the pivot and the rear bulkhead is a bit confusing. You don't really need one there and I was talking to another driver last night about the lack of info on it. I've always assumed that all of the shimming there had to equal 1mm to keep the tower in the same spot. However one could also assume that shim is just like the front pivot shim where it's used to change roll center as well. The thing that bugs me is that moving the entire tower up changes a lot of stuff like shock angle, droop, roll center and CG. I would assume having no shim would be the most aggressive since it's like lowering the ballstud but nobody has ever talked about it.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

THANKS K.KING! Always good tips

Motorman007

iTrader: (89)

Thanks King I see the two wheelbase part now.

eper

iTrader: (14)

I would assume having no shim would be the most aggressive since it's like lowering the ballstud but nobody has ever talked about it.


i agree this needs to be addressed more. ive tried both ways and am running with no upper shim to try and get the cg low as possible. it doesnt make a huge difference its a feel thing