WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Arghhhhhhhhhhh!!! I just ordered my RB6 and a mate's RB6 RTR today So excited!!!
Is there a quick link to Zack Rogers setup? And I heard about the driling of the rear suspension arms. Picture anywhere?

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

I can post a pic later

rpboggs1

iTrader: (19)

Awesome! Welcome to the family! Haha. Here's the link.... Keep in mind this is only for mid motor. There's no need to drill the arms when in rear motor form since you'll already have two shock holes. I'll post a pic of my car soon... I might be a little too far up on the arm but at least they're even. And I was trying to keep the hole where there was the most plastic so I could use a longer screw. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...nmans20140821/

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I want to run mid-motor because it just seems to suit my driving style a bit more. The rear motor guys seem to be turning in, powersliding the rear end and powering back out of the corner, whereas I prefer a bit smoother line. Would I be right in saying that mid-motor cars are more suited for that style of driving?

CaseyD

iTrader: (2)

As long as the track is suited for it. If you're out at a loose dirt track RM will be better regardless of your driving style. Even my home track which is nice clay and misters, sometimes MM is still loose. I'm just stubborn and like my MM, I probably could have been faster with a RM car.

AlanHall

iTrader: (43)

No one has tried the extra arm hole in RM? I'm fighting for fwd bite , so I plan to next day out.

CaseyD

iTrader: (2)

What kind of track do you run on? Hit Snyder up or try and find his rear motor set up, he never had a forward bite problem, he did have a "I can't keep my front tires on the ground" problem though.

AlanHall

iTrader: (43)

He's posted up In a Facebook discussion about giving it a shot. Im going to try that and moving my battery back more. Track is clay but I believe it has a sand mix or somthing being down near the coast. It's probably the losest track I've ever driven on.

MrHistory

iTrader: (2)

Here is the Zack Rogers Setup Sheet:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...nmans20140821/

I just drilled my arms last night, so:

1: Zach says drill this hole on the arm side that already has 2 shock hole positions
2. Drill the new (3rd) hole the same distance as the first 2 holes are spaced. I measured the original 2 holes are 4.25mm apart center to center. So measure 4.25mm further in C/C and mark the arm.
3. Use the flashing line in center of the arm to find vertical line so as to drill right in the middle of arm top to bottom, with the 4.25mm in left to right.
4. I used a 2.4mm drill bit for the hole, then tapped with an M3 screw.
5. Install shocks!

jmoneym

iTrader: (357)

Trying to install the Avid slipper. I used the first washer in the kit but Spurs sticks out to far.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

To run the avid slipper, you need to run their topshaft also.

dpcardoza

iTrader: (83)

anybody got any advice on how to remove a stud out of the aluminum rear hub? I snapped a ball stud off just leaving the stud threaded in. Thinking about drilling a small hole in the center and then see if I can back it out.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

So I know you can run the RB5 arms to do prevent this but I dont have them yet.

If I land wrong or the car starts to get wrong the car get's really upset and hard to get back under control (like to much front traction) what can I do to prevent this? I currently just have the stock setup with 1.4x3/1.6 32.5/30 wt.

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

Ran last weekend with a shorty battery all the way forward with ESC between motor and shorty pack. I was struggling for traction in MM -- B5Ms seemed to be doing well on same conditions. I do not want to go RM because I feel it doesn't fit my driving style -- besides at our track MM is the rage right now.

I am running the latest Kevin King MM setup with new drilled shock location.

Trying to get more traction I decided to run saddles all the way back against a shaved motor guard. Electronics between servo and saddles. Doing some math I have gained around 50 grams of weight and moving the saddles all the way back has changed weight distribution to the rear -- maybe?

Anyways what should I expect from this setup change? I am going in cold this weekend to a big race and would like to get a sense of what it'll behave like.

Ultimately I am looking for more rear traction and decrease steering just a tiny bit. I feel right now my RB6 oversteers coming out of turns and just feels too aggressive for my liking.

CoryD

iTrader: (2)

Have you tried MIP pucks? Gord Tessmann suggested I try them as the RB6 has a lot of dog-bone plunge which he thinks causes extra friction and fights the suspension compression on-power. I switched over to the MIPs and it was a lot better; the car actually squatted.

Give it a try.

Regards,