Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
|
|||
#9466
Any suggestions??
Looking for gearing suggestions.. I will soon be switching from mod to stock.. (10.5 to 17.5) RB6 MM, Small track... High bite clay. My 10.5 was geared 81,21,Triad slipper. I had to gear it that way otherwise it was just too much.
Im getting a Orion 17.5,, heard it was a "torque monster".. hoping its true..
Any suggestions??
Im getting a Orion 17.5,, heard it was a "torque monster".. hoping its true..
Any suggestions??
#9467
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
So it's finally starting to make sense. I'm asking for your approach when u want to make the car exit of of the corners better. What is the first thing you try after u got the tires figured out.
1) add more toe
2) run less anti squad
3) lower roll center
4?????
What is typically the first thing you would change. We're talking midmotor off course.
1) add more toe
2) run less anti squad
3) lower roll center
4?????
What is typically the first thing you would change. We're talking midmotor off course.
#9468
Tech Elite
iTrader: (133)
Looking for gearing suggestions.. I will soon be switching from mod to stock.. (10.5 to 17.5) RB6 MM, Small track... High bite clay. My 10.5 was geared 81,21,Triad slipper. I had to gear it that way otherwise it was just too much.
Im getting a Orion 17.5,, heard it was a "torque monster".. hoping its true..
Any suggestions??
Im getting a Orion 17.5,, heard it was a "torque monster".. hoping its true..
Any suggestions??
#9469
Looking for more side bite I see I need to add the shim to remove the
Anti Squat as I seem to missing that any other tips for a new rb6 guy
Do you guys run the diff tight no matter rear or mid?
Anti Squat as I seem to missing that any other tips for a new rb6 guy
Do you guys run the diff tight no matter rear or mid?
#9470
Tech Adept
i run my diff some what tight when the track is hooking.. when its a bit dusty/wet i loosen it up a bit.. mid
#9471
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
Hey guys here is something I have tested a few times with some nice results.
Changing the spindle height.
My teammate Andy DiBrino runs his with 1mm on top .5 on the bottom. Essentially lowering the spindle. This creates Bump-In which can help make the car enter better, and steer less coming out of a turn.
It's really good for tight tracks or tracks where the front end is grabbing too much on exit.
You can go back to bump-zero and still maintain the additional steering change by adding a 1mm shim to the steering ballstud. With this you should essentially be giving your car an extra 1mm of droop without having to mess with the shocks. This will in turn give you more downtravel and less steering on the exit of a corner.
I know many probably don't mess with this setting, but try it out and see what you think. The adjustments take minimal time and you should see a difference on the track.
Changing the spindle height.
My teammate Andy DiBrino runs his with 1mm on top .5 on the bottom. Essentially lowering the spindle. This creates Bump-In which can help make the car enter better, and steer less coming out of a turn.
It's really good for tight tracks or tracks where the front end is grabbing too much on exit.
You can go back to bump-zero and still maintain the additional steering change by adding a 1mm shim to the steering ballstud. With this you should essentially be giving your car an extra 1mm of droop without having to mess with the shocks. This will in turn give you more downtravel and less steering on the exit of a corner.
I know many probably don't mess with this setting, but try it out and see what you think. The adjustments take minimal time and you should see a difference on the track.
#9472
Looking for more side bite I see I need to add the shim to remove the
Anti Squat as I seem to missing that any other tips for a new rb6 guy
Anti Squat as I seem to missing that any other tips for a new rb6 guy
#9473
So it's finally starting to make sense. I'm asking for your approach when u want to make the car exit of of the corners better. What is the first thing you try after u got the tires figured out.
1) add more toe
2) run less anti squad
3) lower roll center
4?????
What is typically the first thing you would change. We're talking midmotor off course.
1) add more toe
2) run less anti squad
3) lower roll center
4?????
What is typically the first thing you would change. We're talking midmotor off course.
Another option which I learnt from 12th scale and have applied successfully to 2wd buggy is in all but the lowest traction conditions, the more entry steering you have, the rest of the corner will sort its self out. The theory being you do 50% of your rotation in the first 1/3rd of the corner, then you will be turning less when you are applying the gas on exit. I see a lot of cars with bad understeer and they scrub speed at the apex then try and get on the gas (cause the corner speed is so slow) while completing the turn causing the rear to get outa shape. So they look for more rear grip and gain more understeer and the cycle repeats. The more corner speed you have the less acceleration you will need.
Now I rarely touch the rear end of my rb6 mid, my setup procedure is rear tire to suit track (you should probably be able to pick this from just looking at the track), then I try front tire inserts (open cell v closed cell) and front wheelbase adjustment.
#9474
Hey guys here is something I have tested a few times with some nice results.
Changing the spindle height.
My teammate Andy DiBrino runs his with 1mm on top .5 on the bottom. Essentially lowering the spindle. This creates Bump-In which can help make the car enter better, and steer less coming out of a turn.
It's really good for tight tracks or tracks where the front end is grabbing too much on exit.
You can go back to bump-zero and still maintain the additional steering change by adding a 1mm shim to the steering ballstud. With this you should essentially be giving your car an extra 1mm of droop without having to mess with the shocks. This will in turn give you more downtravel and less steering on the exit of a corner.
I know many probably don't mess with this setting, but try it out and see what you think. The adjustments take minimal time and you should see a difference on the track.
Changing the spindle height.
My teammate Andy DiBrino runs his with 1mm on top .5 on the bottom. Essentially lowering the spindle. This creates Bump-In which can help make the car enter better, and steer less coming out of a turn.
It's really good for tight tracks or tracks where the front end is grabbing too much on exit.
You can go back to bump-zero and still maintain the additional steering change by adding a 1mm shim to the steering ballstud. With this you should essentially be giving your car an extra 1mm of droop without having to mess with the shocks. This will in turn give you more downtravel and less steering on the exit of a corner.
I know many probably don't mess with this setting, but try it out and see what you think. The adjustments take minimal time and you should see a difference on the track.
#9476
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
I would add more rear toe (up to 3.5*), you could try going up or down one spring rate. Sometimes I feel a soft rear spring absorbs the weight transfer without passing it onto the tires. To hard a spring and it will feel like ice.
Another option which I learnt from 12th scale and have applied successfully to 2wd buggy is in all but the lowest traction conditions, the more entry steering you have, the rest of the corner will sort its self out. The theory being you do 50% of your rotation in the first 1/3rd of the corner, then you will be turning less when you are applying the gas on exit. I see a lot of cars with bad understeer and they scrub speed at the apex then try and get on the gas (cause the corner speed is so slow) while completing the turn causing the rear to get outa shape. So they look for more rear grip and gain more understeer and the cycle repeats. The more corner speed you have the less acceleration you will need.
Now I rarely touch the rear end of my rb6 mid, my setup procedure is rear tire to suit track (you should probably be able to pick this from just looking at the track), then I try front tire inserts (open cell v closed cell) and front wheelbase adjustment.
Another option which I learnt from 12th scale and have applied successfully to 2wd buggy is in all but the lowest traction conditions, the more entry steering you have, the rest of the corner will sort its self out. The theory being you do 50% of your rotation in the first 1/3rd of the corner, then you will be turning less when you are applying the gas on exit. I see a lot of cars with bad understeer and they scrub speed at the apex then try and get on the gas (cause the corner speed is so slow) while completing the turn causing the rear to get outa shape. So they look for more rear grip and gain more understeer and the cycle repeats. The more corner speed you have the less acceleration you will need.
Now I rarely touch the rear end of my rb6 mid, my setup procedure is rear tire to suit track (you should probably be able to pick this from just looking at the track), then I try front tire inserts (open cell v closed cell) and front wheelbase adjustment.
#9477
Hello all!
I'm about to start back running 2wd mod and was wondering why is everyone running MM vs RM. I was wondering which one should I run indoors on a low-Med traction track. Oh and where can I go to find some setups.
I'm about to start back running 2wd mod and was wondering why is everyone running MM vs RM. I was wondering which one should I run indoors on a low-Med traction track. Oh and where can I go to find some setups.
#9480
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
Here are some places for setup sheets - lots of duplicates, but should get you started:
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/SetupSheetDataBase.htm
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Factory-Setups_c_842.html
http://www.infernosonly.com/Download...heets_s/24.htm