Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-16-2014, 08:44 AM
  #9406  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 189
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by whitrzac
Your putting them on to tight... (unless the bigbore tool is worst than the small shock tool)
I use this one from Avid. That said I only put my shocks together hand tight. No leaking. Kyosho shocks are the best.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
sak13 is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 09:28 AM
  #9407  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 188
Default

Originally Posted by whitrzac
Your putting them on to tight... (unless the bigbore tool is worst than the small shock tool)
I put it nice and snug.. I used it like 5 times now removing all 4 and it was starting to wear out then it just gave out.. I'm using a wrench now works better but kind of scuffed it a bit..
iMarky is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:09 AM
  #9408  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
 
B00t13g's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,041
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by whitrzac
What's the best mid motor body?
The stock one or the proline phantom.

I use pliers for the shocks. Not pretty but it works.
B00t13g is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:37 AM
  #9409  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Is there an easier way to remove the ball studs on the rear of the mid motor car?
Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:41 AM
  #9410  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
yodace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Caleb
Posts: 2,596
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

What do the 521-1 arms do for the buggy ?
yodace is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 01:23 PM
  #9411  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
justpoet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 2,063
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

For the rear hubs, I know there are alloy options for different toe settings.
Are there composite hubs for different toe settings too? I'd like to experiment in this area, but not get alloy until I settle on what works best for me, to do so at a reasonable cost.
justpoet is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 01:24 PM
  #9412  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
justpoet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 2,063
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

For the rear hubs, I know there are alloy options for different toe settings.
Are there composite hubs for different toe settings too? I'd like to experiment in this area, but not get alloy until I settle on what works best for me, to do so at a reasonable cost.
justpoet is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 01:37 PM
  #9413  
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
 
1967rs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Roy Utah
Posts: 1,027
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by whitrzac
What's the best mid motor body?
The proline gen 3 bulldog or phantom, the phantom covers the area before the shock tower just a little better.
1967rs is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 01:40 PM
  #9414  
Tech Master
iTrader: (56)
 
1967rs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Roy Utah
Posts: 1,027
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by justpoet
For the rear hubs, I know there are alloy options for different toe settings.
Are there composite hubs for different toe settings too? I'd like to experiment in this area, but not get alloy until I settle on what works best for me, to do so at a reasonable cost.
I think all the composite hubs are 0deg. I prefer to run the 0deg hubs and adjust the toe and track with using the new arm hangers.
1967rs is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 02:34 PM
  #9415  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
yodace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Caleb
Posts: 2,596
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

The mm hangers are back ordered everywhere
yodace is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 02:53 PM
  #9416  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (37)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 622
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by yodace
The mm hangers are back ordered everywhere
Try absolute hobbyz.com that's where I got mine
chrisjohns is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 04:39 PM
  #9417  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
yodace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Caleb
Posts: 2,596
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Back ordered
yodace is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 05:20 PM
  #9418  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
gelshocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 719
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by justpoet
For the rear hubs, I know there are alloy options for different toe settings.
Are there composite hubs for different toe settings too? I'd like to experiment in this area, but not get alloy until I settle on what works best for me, to do so at a reasonable cost.
These:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...b-Set-2-Off-47
gelshocker is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 05:20 PM
  #9419  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Razathorn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,214
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by iMarky
I put it nice and snug.. I used it like 5 times now removing all 4 and it was starting to wear out then it just gave out.. I'm using a wrench now works better but kind of scuffed it a bit..
Serious. You're putting them on way too tight. I never even use the tool to put the cartridge assembly back together—just bare fingers on the o-ring cap as that turns the whole assembly into the shock body hand tight. There's no need to torque anything. Then the tool just pops it right back off no problem.
Razathorn is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:02 PM
  #9420  
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Houston TX (formally Sou CA)
Posts: 1,220
Trader Rating: 90 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Razathorn
Serious. You're putting them on way too tight. I never even use the tool to put the cartridge assembly back together—just bare fingers on the o-ring cap as that turns the whole assembly into the shock body hand tight. There's no need to torque anything. Then the tool just pops it right back off no problem.
+1! This is so true and wished I knew this when I first got my buggy.

Unfortunately, it costs me $100+ early on with new shock parts due to my bad habits from over-tightening my prior Aslowciated.

Last edited by Kuya_Kimo; 01-17-2014 at 01:57 AM.
Kuya_Kimo is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.