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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-17-2013, 06:25 AM
  #8671  
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Originally Posted by skengines

Car is easy to tune.....except I wish the rear bull stud to the bulkhead was a little easier to access.
Gecko rc rear bulkhead fixes this he also makes the strongest front pin brace . bigred5765 on oople
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:26 AM
  #8672  
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Originally Posted by K_King
Anyone have a good setup for MOD on a loamy track in MM? If not I might just go back to RM and not deal with out ever changing track conditions.
Ha! Now you know why I went back to RM.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:49 AM
  #8673  
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Which aluminum servo horn fits this car good. Just got a rb6 and I'm trying to get it together. Thanks.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:37 AM
  #8674  
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On a loamy track there is usually a lot more side bite, so MM isn't much of an advantage I would think.
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:19 AM
  #8675  
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Ok. This buggy has been out for over a year now and I'm getting one for sure. What are the must have spares to keep on hand? I've also read the steering system isn't all that strong so I was thinking exotek. I'll be running rear motor on carpet. Thanks guys
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:29 AM
  #8676  
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Took my first test drive of the MM layout on a med/high bit indoor clay track last night. I don't know why I waited a year to try it out. Buggy is much improved over the RM for my track: more stable on the ground & in the air, more corner speed, less "pendulum" effect, transitions faster. The concept of MM makes sense following the reasoning of "centralized mass" used in modern snowmobiles and high performance motorcycles. It is the best upgrade/change I've made.
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:21 AM
  #8677  
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla
I've never heard of anyone raising the tranny on the rb6. I don't think its necessary. I thought only the 22 guys were doing it.
you'll be surprise how it works.
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Old 11-17-2013, 12:34 PM
  #8678  
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18
Ok. This buggy has been out for over a year now and I'm getting one for sure. What are the must have spares to keep on hand? I've also read the steering system isn't all that strong so I was thinking exotek. I'll be running rear motor on carpet. Thanks guys
If your running on carpet go with the mid motor set up....
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:04 PM
  #8679  
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
you'll be surprise how it works.
What exactly did find raising the tranny. I run mm with slicks at my track and the car is awesome. I definitely don't need any more traction.
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Old 11-17-2013, 05:32 PM
  #8680  
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Originally Posted by Eric Tomczyk
On a loamy track there is usually a lot more side bite, so MM isn't much of an advantage I would think.
I should have said dusty, not loamy.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:26 PM
  #8681  
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Originally Posted by K_King
I should have said dusty, not loamy.
I can't guarantee this works but I'm willing to bet the set up i'm running would translate well to dusty or slippery conditions. The most significant changes would be running c-in/c-in on the new toe blocks and 1.5mm worth of shims below the rear toe block. The rest is really just personal preference.

I just finished racing the Spektrum and traction was "good" but after a few laps, the track dusted up. The setup i have now seemed to really get the rear end to squat and get the power down. After speaking with one of the Kyosho drivers, there are a few more things I want to try but i can't say I left feeling like my car was lacking anywhere (handling wise).
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:30 PM
  #8682  
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
I can't guarantee this works but I'm willing to bet the set up i'm running would translate well to dusty or slippery conditions. The most significant changes would be running c-in/c-in on the new toe blocks and 1.5mm worth of shims below the rear toe block. The rest is really just personal preference.

I just finished racing the Spektrum and traction was "good" but after a few laps, the track dusted up. The setup i have now seemed to really get the rear end to squat and get the power down. After speaking with one of the Kyosho drivers, there are a few more things I want to try but i can't say I left feeling like my car was lacking anywhere (handling wise).
And which setup would this be? Thanks,
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:02 PM
  #8683  
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Originally Posted by gelshocker
And which setup would this be? Thanks,
Without filling out a whole set up sheet, the significant changes were:

1. Running c-in/c-in on the new toe blocks
2. 1.5 mm shims under the rear toe block
3. Servo/speedo/shorty battery/[3/4 ounce weight]/motor
4. White rear springs.

The rest of your set up is really personal preference and based on tuning for the tires you use. Keep in mind, to put the 1.5mm under the rear toe blocks, you will need to loosen the 2 transmission screws prior to putting the rear bulkhead back. Also do not run any shims on top of the toe block, your already past the 1 mm the designers allowed for spacing.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:26 PM
  #8684  
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Cnelson had an awesome showing at Spektrum. His buggy looked locked in.

Nice job this weekend!

I bought an extra rear bulk head that I'm gonna try shave 1mm off so the shock tower height is not effected at all. I think some Dremel work will do the trick.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:36 PM
  #8685  
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Originally Posted by joecool
Cnelson had an awesome showing at Spektrum. His buggy looked locked in.

Nice job this weekend!

I bought an extra rear bulk head that I'm gonna try shave 1mm off so the shock tower height is not effected at all. I think some Dremel work will do the trick.
I was thinking about that as well. I let the shock eyelets out a half turn to compensate for the raise in shock tower height. Honestly, i have no idea if that truly compensated for the extra .5mm spacer but... it put my mind at ease. haha.
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