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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-24-2013, 11:30 AM
  #6361  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
what was your issue with the viper?
That would be the brakes and their zero lack of feel when compared to other brands.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:37 AM
  #6362  
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ok, I agree. I have enough to bring my nose down and slow for a corner. But if I am on an incline and try to hit the brakes to stop myself, I cant. So in short its enough brake for me racing. But I do agree that the HW based esc have way more brake.
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:02 PM
  #6363  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
I am looking for more forward bite. Loads of side bite but need some more forward traction. Do you guys have any suggestions for changes that may help increase this. I'm running close to the tebo mm setup.
White rear springs and add a bit more droop to the front, unscrew the shock ends 2 threads if you can.
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:56 PM
  #6364  
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sounds like droop is worth a shot, i was thinking about this. i went from gold kyosho to green ae rear springs last week and it helped. i tried to change back to golds lastnight and didnt feel as good. i will have to bite the bullet anfd get some whites to try as well.
also how about wheelbase? im in the middle now
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:17 PM
  #6365  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
sounds like droop is worth a shot, i was thinking about this. i went from gold kyosho to green ae rear springs last week and it helped. i tried to change back to golds lastnight and didnt feel as good. i will have to bite the bullet anfd get some whites to try as well.
also how about wheelbase? im in the middle now
Is the problem mostly when coming out of a turn? if the track is loose I'll switch to a set of pushy front tires as well.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:22 PM
  #6366  
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Yes coming out Of a turn when trying to get on power. Like start of the straightaway
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:41 PM
  #6367  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
mm
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Old 04-24-2013, 02:50 PM
  #6368  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, I agree. I have enough to bring my nose down and slow for a corner. But if I am on an incline and try to hit the brakes to stop myself, I cant. So in short its enough brake for me racing. But I do agree that the HW based esc have way more brake.
I wouldn't Agree with the lack of feel (unless you read his post literally as zero lack of feel...) But weak brakes certainly.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:22 PM
  #6369  
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I dont mind the viper brakes. when I was running 4x4 sc, then i would have wanted more brake, but i have plenty for 2wd. ok, so we all know I bought my buggy used. But the previous user seemed to really go for a low roll center. It seems awefully high, no?
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:24 PM
  #6370  
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I plan to ar least try his setup, as he was a sponsored guy, or at least he told me. then I might goto the team setup or the Tran setup.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:05 PM
  #6371  
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on the setup sheets for the chassis screws. if the screw is marked does that mean the screw is there or not. Also, are the screws to give more of less grip? for now I will assume i need all the grip I can get from the rear.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:40 PM
  #6372  
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how is the RB6 Build for a novice builder. I was looking at the B4.2 FT but I like the RB6 but this will be my first solo build.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:52 PM
  #6373  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
on the setup sheets for the chassis screws. if the screw is marked does that mean the screw is there or not. Also, are the screws to give more of less grip? for now I will assume i need all the grip I can get from the rear.
Taking them out offers more flex for more traction. It's a feel thing really I just always left them out except when I ran Cactus. There was soo much traction I stiffened the car to help keep it from flipping off the track.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:09 PM
  #6374  
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Originally Posted by Gitsum
Taking them out offers more flex for more traction. It's a feel thing really I just always left them out except when I ran Cactus. There was soo much traction I stiffened the car to help keep it from flipping off the track.
thanks. holy money butt. I just took apart the rear end because I wanted to see if the .5mm shim was under the rear holder.....well, the entire rear end literally fell apart. pillow balls, washers, spacers and shims fell all over the floor...those hinge pins are soooooo free that they made it a pain to get them to stay in place longer enough for me to get he holder, shim and read bumper into place. I really dislike how the bumper stacks with the shim and holder. grr, maybe with practice..... If I ever break a holder parts are going to be all over the track.......good thing I have some delrin pillow balls coming. if you guys loose the 2mm plastic spacer in front of the rear arms, aside from buying and entire parts tree, what do you use? the losi plastic ball stud shim pack?
ok, gitsum, I will run without the screws this weekend. I am really nervous about how loose people say the rear of this buggy is. I keep having sc10 4x4 flashbacks, lol.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:16 PM
  #6375  
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ok, I cant figure out what front casters are on this car. I assume the stock kits ones. This is the setup to the best of my ability that the buggy came with. some of the setting in the setup sheet I didnt understand and left blank. Anything seem obviously wrong besides the 4mm spacer under the inside rear stud.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rb6_start.jpg  
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