BennyBagems

iTrader: (15)

Hi guys, I'll be switching to an RB6 from a DEX210 soon, will the 210 hex rears fit on the RB6 OK?
I still have a heap of tyres mounted I would like to use before I change over to kit wheels.
Thanks.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

No they are 12mm

Dale.0

iTrader: (2)

When you add washers behind the ball studs on the steering rack, are you adding Ackerman? Or taking it out?

E73

iTrader: (3)

I've been trying to figure this out as well. This is the best information I've found on this subject: petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb4/B4_CharliePerezSetupHints.htm

Increasing ackerman (front wheel angle difference is increased) mellows the steering and is accomplished by reversing the steering bell crank and putting the ball studs back in facing the stock direction. This effectively moves the position of the ball studs back a millimeter or two.

Decreasing ackerman (front wheel angle is similar) makes the car more aggressive and is accomplished by adding spacers under the bell crank ball studs.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Turbo911

iTrader: (4)

Thinking out loud here. When I get to a track that I know or to a new track, the first thing I do is test tires. Primarily looking for max rear traction and good side bite. I usually use a front tire that I know will push as to not interfere with the selection of the rear tire. Once set on rear tire, I try different front tires til I am satisfied or run out of time. Most times I end up changing to a front tire with less traction than the max traction tire that I have.

I also will play with roll center on the rear for traction and side bite, generally don't play with anti-squat.

My question is: maybe I should start using the front tire with more traction than I like and start tuning the front of the car to take traction out versus changing to a tire with less traction.

I would be interested to hear some other opinions/thoughts on this.

Turbo

JiuHaWong

Anyone run a protek servo in their RB6? If so, what model did you get?

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Putting a shim behind the stud on the RB6 will increase steering by decreasing ackerman. The B4 has 2 holes, forward and back. Going to the back will mellow the steering. The way you can achieve this is installing the ballstud on the other side, but I would run a low mount ballstud if you were going to do that.

I've run both 1mm shim and 0, and I like 0 the best for my track.

K_King

iTrader: (47)

So I ran my second car that I built as MM for the 1st time yesterday in a race. Wow. Our track is indoors, but it's not exactly high bite. Medium bite would be describe it, and it can be loose so it was going to be interesting to see if it would work.

I had never run a mid motor car before, and I have a bit of work on it to make it better, but essentially I took my rear motor car setup and tossed it on this with some adjustments, but the base is the same.

I was able to run my fastest laps with MM, ran more consistent, jumped better, and was overall smoother than I had been with my RM car. I TQ'd and won the 7 min main by a good margin.

My RM car was good, but there's something to be said about how a MM car drives without feeling like you have to drive hard to get a really good lap time.

Here's how I made the car config wise. I am going to try saddle packs eventually, but I need to figure out how they are mounting them.

I did have to modify the rear motor guard to move the battery back further back, and the braces look a little tweaked because of it (the holes are actually not made for the braces so it stretches it a bit, the battery doesn't move though. Just looks goofy.)



Here is my setup

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.pdf

Phone friendly JPG version
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Motor_SDRC.jpg

ColbyRichards

iTrader: (1)

What does increasing toe in on the rear give and take away? I picked up a used roller and it comes with 0 degree aluminium rears. Is this the common set used or the 0.5 set?

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

When traction is low, you'll typically migrate to using more toe-in in the rear to lock it in more on power. In stock classes you'll loose perhaps a little straight away speed by increasing toe, but I'm not so sure that's an issue with modified classes with as much power we have these days.

Some racers also say by increasing rear toe-in that it gives more initial steering because of more break-effect (drag) caused by the rear end. I typically don't consider it.

ColbyRichards

iTrader: (1)

Does this affect how it corners through the end of the corner? I like to have lots of turn in and holding lines through the corners. Like I'm driving on carpet really

K_King

iTrader: (47)

It should rotate less. Meaning more rear grip.

teeforb

iTrader: (94)

I run on the same track as K_King. I just came back from running my 17.5 in mid motor configuration and WOW! So much more corner speed! I may have to get my rear motor mod to mid motor configuration as well.

I was running clay compound front and rear

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

I Ran a new track today and the rear was a handful. It was so different from font to back I chose the easy way out and changed front tires to match the feel of the rear. As I work on rear grip I know I can easily add more front with a simple and quick change.
I suppose I could have changed several things for incremental loss but it was so far off the tire change was needed.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I stripped my servo horn today. I decided on the losi aluminum replacement. Should I be adding any shims behind the ball stud?