Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Old 03-25-2013, 07:40 AM
  #5881  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
aloksatoor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: N California
Posts: 3,150
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Not exactly clear about the background. But on my nitro xray cars, I do measure droop with 30mm blocks on a setup board. I measure it at the hub level comparing it to team setup sheets with a calliper or a ride height gauge. The xrays give a number which is equal to how high the hub hangs when the chassis is on 30 mm blocks. The tekno sct410 truck sheets give me droop settings via shock lengths.

The right thing to do is take the droop measurement after exactly setting the tekno up via given shock lengths, then changing the shock positions and measuring droop again via blocks. It should be different. I like the xray approach of course.
aloksatoor is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:42 AM
  #5882  
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
 
Yeti AS3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: lockport,IL
Posts: 1,349
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
im not sure, but in looking at Tebos car, he used the wider rb5 axles, but then used the narrow setting with his caster blocks to counter the width change. So im not sure what the point is.
I asked a guy at our track about this and he said onroad guys do similar changes. But didn't really get into it. It obviously changes pivot points. If you think about it, it raises the roll center slightly. I felt that steering was smoother with no loss of steering, even though it added 6 or .75mm to track width. I uses Yoshi wheels.

Last edited by Yeti AS3; 03-25-2013 at 09:31 AM.
Yeti AS3 is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:13 PM
  #5883  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
1fastdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Sinsinnati
Posts: 2,030
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default Little help please

Will RB5 front wheels fit the RB6? What Associated front wheels fit the RB6?


What is the part number for the white front springs please?
1fastdude is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:27 PM
  #5884  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,755
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 1fastdude
Will RB5 front wheels fit the RB6? What Associated front wheels fit the RB6?


What is the part number for the white front springs please?
Yes, I have only used JC fronts and they fit, it seems the aka ones maybe the only hex style that needs some work.
MikeXray is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:30 PM
  #5885  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,755
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

XGS002 is the white front.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Kyosho_Spring_Chart.pdf (57.7 KB, 298 views)
MikeXray is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 01:31 PM
  #5886  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (31)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lake in the Hills IL
Posts: 452
Trader Rating: 31 (97%+)
Default

Will RB5 front wheels fit the RB6? Yup

What Associated front wheels fit the RB6?yup




What is the part number for the white front springs please? Kyoxgs002
Nasty N8 is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 02:13 PM
  #5887  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 2,035
Trader Rating: 68 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MikeXray
Yes, I have only used JC fronts and they fit, it seems the aka ones maybe the only hex style that needs some work.
Actually Mike the aka wheels are fine. The avid wheels need the rb5 hexes
Speedychris22 is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 02:24 PM
  #5888  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
1fastdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Sinsinnati
Posts: 2,030
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Thank you guys
1fastdude is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 02:46 PM
  #5889  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
jwood7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 856
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MikeXray
I wouldn't use the K plate, there is way too much play on the topshaft and bet both are getting chewed up.

I ground down the B4 plate and used the Kyosho spring, I think the B4 spring would have been fine as well.
I have the stock topshaft. Been running it for months. No play at all.

I cut the outer plate cause my spring was fitting way to tight around that raised area. It feels and adjusts way nicer now, and it's lighter.
jwood7 is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 04:41 PM
  #5890  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,755
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jwood7
I have the stock topshaft. Been running it for months. No play at all.

I cut the outer plate cause my spring was fitting way to tight around that raised area. It feels and adjusts way nicer now, and it's lighter.
Im confused on how this works, the vts plate will not slide onto the stock shaft, unless you are modifying it.
MikeXray is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 05:39 PM
  #5891  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
seth556's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,233
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Yes, measuring shock length doesn't tell you droop at all. If you are hearing that term used, im sorry, but it's incorrect. It tells you one thing, and that is "shock length". If you all follow the same settings on your sheets, then you will get a consistent setup, but you are using the wrong term. I will have time to explain/type it out later, can't right now. Or PM me and I can give you my phone #, and id be happy to talk to you on lunch break today or something.
Shock length will tell you droop as long as you're using the same shock mounting location. Most 1/8 buggies use shock length to measure droop, I think Xray is the only one to actually do it in a way that shock mounting location doesn't matter, same thing as on road cars.
seth556 is offline  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:36 PM
  #5892  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by seth556
Shock length will tell you droop as long as you're using the same shock mounting location. Most 1/8 buggies use shock length to measure droop, I think Xray is the only one to actually do it in a way that shock mounting location doesn't matter, same thing as on road cars.
Also depends on ride height. So while its fine, and works to compare against others, it's not measuring droop.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 03-26-2013, 01:13 AM
  #5893  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 578
Default

Originally Posted by Johnn27
Losi 55 pistons (4 hole)
Front oil __35_____ Rear oil _30______
Front spring __pink_______ Rear spring __gold_____

Some say that oil should be a lighter weight 32.5f / 27.5 rear but I am pretty happy with the heavier weight oils
Certainly tempted to try the avidrc pistons on astro in mid motor.

Prob just opt for the 4 hole option fr/r

Also may consider the WC slipper setup
mikeyscott is offline  
Old 03-26-2013, 05:03 AM
  #5894  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 488
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Turbo911
If you are running at BFG, try Barcodes (clay) or Panther Bobcats on the front with AKA red inserts. The barcodes (wider tire patch) will have more grip than the Bobcats. Also you might want to try Panther Rattlers (clay) on the rear. Another rear tire is Brocodes (clay). You might want to run 35/30 on shock oil.

Turbo
BFG is where I'm at, thanks for the response.
platinumjason is offline  
Old 03-26-2013, 06:05 AM
  #5895  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 187
Default JC Vs Kuosho wheels

Hey guys...went testing yesterday for Greek Nationals on a new astro truck near Athens

I went with Schumacher Mini Spykes in the rear and stugger front and rear motor setup since the track is not high traction. At some point I tried some JC wheels which have deeper hex...I quess that means the rear end was narrower right?

Car felt better...is this down to narrow rear end? What's the theory here?
nitroargi is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.