172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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03-22-2013, 10:50 AM
#5821
For ghea, people are using 30/25 pink and gold or pink and red.
03-22-2013, 11:17 AM
#5823
I fought this same thing with more than normal "slop" in the steering (compared to our previous RB5's). I tried shimming and found the only way to rid the cars steering slop, was to replace the stock (plastic) steering crank arms & the king pins every once in a while. I also run the UMW701 Alum rack and found that changing the cranks & king pins is what keeps things tight as they both wear a bit (more than can be seen by the eye). Its not the most economical means to "fix" the slop, but it does keep things tight.
03-22-2013, 12:14 PM
#5824
03-22-2013, 02:05 PM
#5827
why wouldnt you just measure full shock length like we do on 8th scale? seems a heck of a lot more simple.. i like the keep it simple stupid approach.. and you could always have blocks machined that you would put under the chassis with no wheels on the car and take your ride height and measure to the lowest point on the arm. then adjust eye lit till both sides are equal.
03-22-2013, 02:22 PM
#5828
Capt, where on the chassis should I measure ride height? And just drop it, or role it back and forth a little?
03-23-2013, 04:17 AM
#5830
Just curious.. do the pros like Tebo, Maefield, etc build new cars for every big race? Is it part of the event that everyone needs to build a new vehicle? Reason I'm asking is that from all the photos I see, it looks like they build their cars at the race. How many kits do these guys go through a year?
03-23-2013, 04:36 AM
#5831
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
Got a question but not sure if I should have it here or the RB5 thread.
I have a RB5 with a +13mm chassis extension which should make this the same length a RB6 (which is why I'm here) and I figured a lot of RB5 guys probably migrated to this new chassis.
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the rear end to hook up. Running on a clay track that is pretty sticky but does get dusty so I usually run JConcepts 3D for rear tires and Suburbs after fresh watering or if its not dusty that day.
I'm new to racing so I've been running ribs for front tires as recommended to me by some guys at the track being the front Scrubs I got with my roller were hooking up too much and breaking the rear end loose.
Now that I've gotten it setup a little better (along with my driving) I'm needing a little more steering as it pushes pretty hard going into turns. I looked at the RB5 thread and saw a lot of people recommended at least 14g of weight up front which is what I did. Now with the chassis extension and the scrubs its biting a bit much and breaking the rear end loose in corners again and the ribs are not hooking up enough in the front.
Not sure if I should be looking for a front tire between Scrubs and ribs or if I need a little bit more of setup change. Thinking next time I go to the track I'm going to try the Scrubs again and remove the 7g weight I have left in the front bulk head and see if that calms down the front traction enough.
This is my current setup, if anyone could give me a few ideas I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do a few more novice races and then move to stock buggy and want to get it tuned in a little better before making the jump.
30# shock oil front and rear, pink xgear front springs, red xgear rears
+13mm chassis extension
7g front bulk head weight
7g weight on the diff case
1mm shimmed roll center (I think there are actually 1mm shims all around IIRC)
front shocks in middle hole
rears shocks in outside hole
I have a RB5 with a +13mm chassis extension which should make this the same length a RB6 (which is why I'm here) and I figured a lot of RB5 guys probably migrated to this new chassis.
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the rear end to hook up. Running on a clay track that is pretty sticky but does get dusty so I usually run JConcepts 3D for rear tires and Suburbs after fresh watering or if its not dusty that day.
I'm new to racing so I've been running ribs for front tires as recommended to me by some guys at the track being the front Scrubs I got with my roller were hooking up too much and breaking the rear end loose.
Now that I've gotten it setup a little better (along with my driving) I'm needing a little more steering as it pushes pretty hard going into turns. I looked at the RB5 thread and saw a lot of people recommended at least 14g of weight up front which is what I did. Now with the chassis extension and the scrubs its biting a bit much and breaking the rear end loose in corners again and the ribs are not hooking up enough in the front.
Not sure if I should be looking for a front tire between Scrubs and ribs or if I need a little bit more of setup change. Thinking next time I go to the track I'm going to try the Scrubs again and remove the 7g weight I have left in the front bulk head and see if that calms down the front traction enough.
This is my current setup, if anyone could give me a few ideas I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do a few more novice races and then move to stock buggy and want to get it tuned in a little better before making the jump.
30# shock oil front and rear, pink xgear front springs, red xgear rears
+13mm chassis extension
7g front bulk head weight
7g weight on the diff case
1mm shimmed roll center (I think there are actually 1mm shims all around IIRC)
front shocks in middle hole
rears shocks in outside hole
03-23-2013, 07:32 AM
#5832
steering slop
Hello there folks,
I believe the slop comes from repeated articulation of the steering bellcranks and minute impacts from normal driving.
I've driven my RB6 since it's global launch and am still using the original bellcranks with minimal slop.
My RB6 is built with an "on-servo" servo saver. Had to grind off a little off a little bit of chassis (the front brace mounting post) but it was well worth the mod.
I used a Futaba 9551 servo with a T.O.P. medium servo saver.
-Alexander
I believe the slop comes from repeated articulation of the steering bellcranks and minute impacts from normal driving.
I've driven my RB6 since it's global launch and am still using the original bellcranks with minimal slop.
My RB6 is built with an "on-servo" servo saver. Had to grind off a little off a little bit of chassis (the front brace mounting post) but it was well worth the mod.
I used a Futaba 9551 servo with a T.O.P. medium servo saver.
-Alexander
03-23-2013, 10:21 AM
#5833
Getting out of RC to finish my drag bug. If anybody is interested...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ip-spares.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ip-spares.html
03-23-2013, 01:24 PM
#5834
Ok, so someone was saying the avid/VTS combo fits, what backing plate are you using? the one from my B4 spaces it so far out, there is no way you can thread the nut/spring combo on. I could just dremel off the lip, but I'm curious if there is another plate that is being used. I ended up using the standard b4 setup for now.
I only changed a few things, played with battery forward/back and rear hubs fwd/back (after going back to the stock 0's). Car was still really good, there is only one section of the track I could use some more on power steering on, the rest just getting the right line/timing. I settled on battery fwd (technically this is the middle setting) and hubs back.
I only changed a few things, played with battery forward/back and rear hubs fwd/back (after going back to the stock 0's). Car was still really good, there is only one section of the track I could use some more on power steering on, the rest just getting the right line/timing. I settled on battery fwd (technically this is the middle setting) and hubs back.
03-23-2013, 01:38 PM
#5835
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Tires
Got a question but not sure if I should have it here or the RB5 thread.
I have a RB5 with a +13mm chassis extension which should make this the same length a RB6 (which is why I'm here) and I figured a lot of RB5 guys probably migrated to this new chassis.
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the rear end to hook up. Running on a clay track that is pretty sticky but does get dusty so I usually run JConcepts 3D for rear tires and Suburbs after fresh watering or if its not dusty that day.
I'm new to racing so I've been running ribs for front tires as recommended to me by some guys at the track being the front Scrubs I got with my roller were hooking up too much and breaking the rear end loose.
Now that I've gotten it setup a little better (along with my driving) I'm needing a little more steering as it pushes pretty hard going into turns. I looked at the RB5 thread and saw a lot of people recommended at least 14g of weight up front which is what I did. Now with the chassis extension and the scrubs its biting a bit much and breaking the rear end loose in corners again and the ribs are not hooking up enough in the front.
Not sure if I should be looking for a front tire between Scrubs and ribs or if I need a little bit more of setup change. Thinking next time I go to the track I'm going to try the Scrubs again and remove the 7g weight I have left in the front bulk head and see if that calms down the front traction enough.
This is my current setup, if anyone could give me a few ideas I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do a few more novice races and then move to stock buggy and want to get it tuned in a little better before making the jump.
30# shock oil front and rear, pink xgear front springs, red xgear rears
+13mm chassis extension
7g front bulk head weight
7g weight on the diff case
1mm shimmed roll center (I think there are actually 1mm shims all around IIRC)
front shocks in middle hole
rears shocks in outside hole
I have a RB5 with a +13mm chassis extension which should make this the same length a RB6 (which is why I'm here) and I figured a lot of RB5 guys probably migrated to this new chassis.
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the rear end to hook up. Running on a clay track that is pretty sticky but does get dusty so I usually run JConcepts 3D for rear tires and Suburbs after fresh watering or if its not dusty that day.
I'm new to racing so I've been running ribs for front tires as recommended to me by some guys at the track being the front Scrubs I got with my roller were hooking up too much and breaking the rear end loose.
Now that I've gotten it setup a little better (along with my driving) I'm needing a little more steering as it pushes pretty hard going into turns. I looked at the RB5 thread and saw a lot of people recommended at least 14g of weight up front which is what I did. Now with the chassis extension and the scrubs its biting a bit much and breaking the rear end loose in corners again and the ribs are not hooking up enough in the front.
Not sure if I should be looking for a front tire between Scrubs and ribs or if I need a little bit more of setup change. Thinking next time I go to the track I'm going to try the Scrubs again and remove the 7g weight I have left in the front bulk head and see if that calms down the front traction enough.
This is my current setup, if anyone could give me a few ideas I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm going to do a few more novice races and then move to stock buggy and want to get it tuned in a little better before making the jump.
30# shock oil front and rear, pink xgear front springs, red xgear rears
+13mm chassis extension
7g front bulk head weight
7g weight on the diff case
1mm shimmed roll center (I think there are actually 1mm shims all around IIRC)
front shocks in middle hole
rears shocks in outside hole
If you are running at BFG, try Barcodes (clay) or Panther Bobcats on the front with AKA red inserts. The barcodes (wider tire patch) will have more grip than the Bobcats. Also you might want to try Panther Rattlers (clay) on the rear. Another rear tire is Brocodes (clay). You might want to run 35/30 on shock oil.
Turbo