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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-07-2013, 08:12 AM
  #5026  
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Originally Posted by X God
I read on the first page that Capt.America ran the narrow rear hangers to lock the rear end in more. Has anyone else tried it and what were your thoughts compared to the wides, Thanks.
Originally Posted by SAMCRO
I run wides and my car is locked down.
There are a LOT of things you an do (or not do) that can make one end of the car either locked in, or loose. But with everything else being 100% equal, a wider track will yield less grip on that end of the car. (were not talking vast amounts here, just a slight difference)
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:30 AM
  #5027  
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I always felt like when it'd go back and forth on my SC-R between the wide and normal blocks that the wide blocks were super stable but quit rotating while the normal blocks made it rotate much better. Although that was with stock and a very slow truck.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:38 AM
  #5028  
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www(dot)kyosho(dot)com/jpn/products/rc/parts_images/UMW702.jpg

www(dot)kyosho(dot)com/jpn/products/rc/parts_images/UMW703.jpg

These were on the kyosho website yesterday
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:52 AM
  #5029  
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Originally Posted by QIMB528
www(dot)kyosho(dot)com/jpn/products/rc/parts_images/UMW702.jpg

www(dot)kyosho(dot)com/jpn/products/rc/parts_images/UMW703.jpg

These were on the kyosho website yesterday


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Old 02-07-2013, 08:59 AM
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You missed this as well.

UMW701

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Old 02-07-2013, 09:12 AM
  #5031  
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But I already have my red ones
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:18 AM
  #5032  
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Has anyone found the sweet spot for gearing a vst 17.5 in the Rb6?
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:28 AM
  #5033  
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Originally Posted by ridein04
Or you could go straight to Absolute website and buy it for $449, use their feb coupon and get it for $424
Where could I find this coupon of which you speak?
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:06 AM
  #5034  
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Originally Posted by seth556
I always felt like when it'd go back and forth on my SC-R between the wide and normal blocks that the wide blocks were super stable but quit rotating while the normal blocks made it rotate much better. Although that was with stock and a very slow truck.
Going to a wider rear track increases rotation in 3 ways, if all you change are your hangers and nothing else:

1. A wider track technically raises your roll center (which increases roll resistance)as your contact patch is now farther away from the center of the car. Roll center by ELVO

2. Your lower shock mount is technically farther away from the car as well, and if your shock length hasn't changed, you have removed droop. (which reduces roll)

3. It's possible the wider lower shock mount position also makes the rear suspension stiffer... unless that's determined by the distance from the pivot rather than the middle of the car.... im not sure if it is.

Any way you cut it, all of theses will reduce traction in the rear, and increase steering. There is ONE scenario where raising your roll center and increasing roll resistance will increase traction instead of decreasing, and that is if you generate SO much traction and roll, that you actually go over the edge of your traction curve, and go into a skid (what happens with 1:1 cars). In that case, stiffer/wider/more roll resistance can actually aid in traction, because you are no longer skidding out. You need to understand how the traction curve of a rubber tire works to get your head around it.

Last edited by Cpt.America; 02-07-2013 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:47 AM
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Not to be a smart ass but my car rotated better with the narrow blocks and less with the wider ones. Exact opposite of what u just explained. My suspension feels softer with the wider blocks. As far as roll resistance is considered, u got me there. Maybe my car is the odd ball but I had different results
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:50 AM
  #5036  
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
Not to be a smart ass but my car rotated better with the narrow blocks and less with the wider ones. Exact opposite of what u just explained. My suspension feels softer with the wider blocks. As far as roll resistance is considered, u got me there. Maybe my car is the odd ball but I had different results
Then something else changed at the same time, with a bigger effect.

Sometimes other things are felt MUCH more. For example, lets say you ran the wide blocks in the morning when traction was high... Then lets say you took a couple hours away and changed your blocks to the narrows. In the mean time, traction on the track dropped for whatever reason... You put the car down with the new narrow hangers and your rear-end is now looser due to less traction, and you say to yourself "hey... more rotation with these narrow hangers"... it wasn't the hangers, it was the track.

Obviously this is just an example of what can happen, not necessarily what did. Could of been all kinds of things.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
Not to be a smart ass but my car rotated better with the narrow blocks and less with the wider ones. Exact opposite of what u just explained. My suspension feels softer with the wider blocks. As far as roll resistance is considered, u got me there. Maybe my car is the odd ball but I had different results
I am not surprised, the issue is there is more than one "part" to a turn, and the change may be more evident in one part than another. Narrowing the rear should increase rear site bite which one would think would add push, but the narrow pivot also adds rotation, but usually this is mid to exit, so you may notice a bit less turn-in but more mid to exit, thus a feeling of more overall steering.

Things also depend on the balance of you car, if the rear was already locked in, how a change feels will vary vs a car that was very free.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:28 PM
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Don't think of it as "more or less traction", think of it as "more or less traction gain" This is because you develop more and more traction, the more the car rolls.

Picture car #1, a car that has it's suspension locked down so the arms can't move. If the car can't roll, the amount of traction the car has on either end of the car, will be the same at corner entrance, mid, and exit, because the car stays completely flat. You will have zero traction gain, throughout a corner.

Now, lets say you have car #2, a car with proper suspension, with a super low roll center. This car will roll a lot. The peak of it's roll will be dead smack mid corner. So picture the "curve" of your traction change. This car's curve will be tall and steep as it approaches mid corner, and then come back down again as it exits. The first car's curve would be about flat.

If you overlayed the two graphs on top of eachother, at the very entrance to the corner, the relative difference between the two is very close... and same with the very exit. The BIG difference between the two, will be in the middle.

So if you run a wider track, and therefor less roll (less traction gain)... you might say to yourself (or feel), "man this car has more rear traction at corner exit"... well, it doesn't have more traction at corner exit, it just has LESS traction mid corner than a car with a bigger curve, so you might perceive more exit traction because of how much traction it has mid corner.

Did that make any sense? I have a hard time understand what I wrote myself... I need to draw up some graphs.

What will really get you is when you start changing angles and lengths of your tie rodes, you change the shape of these traction curve graphs.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:35 PM
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Very well said.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:35 PM
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Physics is fun.
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