t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

I would start at the japanese it's very well balanced and even though it says it's for outdoors I'm hooked up so well at my indoor track I haven't changed a thing. Other than zero caster.

SAMCRO

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Capt America. I look forward to getting the Rb6 up and going!

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

No prob... let me know if I can answer any other questions for ya.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

you will love the car, very high quality. And on the track its great. Only complaint I have is with the manual and the packing of the parts, Has you going all over the place

umm winning

iTrader: (8)

Anybody else here have trouble setting their gear mesh 69/34 with a revtech 17.5? From the few laps i was able to run before stripping my spur, the buggy was awesome.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

What does the motor brand and/or gearing have to do with setting gear mesh? Here is the key to gear mesh:

1. Mesh the teeth between the two gears 2/3rds meshed.
2. Use high quality motor set screws with washers, and make em tight. Get the lunsford motor screws and you wont be disappointed. Best money I have spent in RC.
3. Your revtech is over-geared. Run it at 69/31, and run the end-bell timing all the way up.

ben73

iTrader: (40)

hi guys

are these the correct parts to put the "old" rb5 front axles on the RB6?

KYOLAW30GM Kyosho Aluminum Clamping Wheel Hubs Gunmetal
KYOUM506 Kyosho Front Wheel Shafts

BranVita

iTrader: (39)

I was at the same gearing aswell(Avid Spur), My gear mesh was perfectly fine and I still had a little room, but I went down to a 32.

305M3

iTrader: (43)

Brandon -
I've had the shock posts for about 1.5 months. Racing for 6 Saturdays and the occasional practice day. They are still very snug w/ minimal wear.

If these pics are too blurry, I'll get off my lazy "a" and get out the real camera.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I tried that gearing a while back but the mesh was way too tight for my liking.

umm winning

iTrader: (8)

Was just saying brand and gearing just in case anybody had asked. I will try the above and thanks for the gearing info. @silvalis I was the complete opposite..

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Not too shabby.. I sometimes get in 3 race nights in, in a week... there is one guy running a set at TCRC (downy? how the holding up for you?)...

Ok, sounds good. remember, if the gearing you are running (even if the ratio is right) is too tight... i.e. if more than 2/3rds of the teeth are meshed between the two gears, then you are running gears that are too large, and the motor is probably too far back (changes handling). Move down to smaller spur and smaller pinion, and do so in a ratio that keeps your FDR the same.

for example,

28/69 is about the same as 29/72, the motor just sits closer to the axle (in RM)

Always spin your meshed gears and check mesh at 4 or 5 spots around the spur gear. If the tip of a pinion tooth touches the spur gear, you're too tight. You add drag, heat, and will eventually strip the gear. If you see at some points that maybe only half of the pinion tooth is meshed with half the spur tooth, its too far away.

Just1More

iTrader: (11)

Just bought a new RB6 and starting the build. I know this has been asked before, but anything I should pay particular attention to when building, or adjust from the manual setup? Not necessarily asking which aftermarket parts i should buy, just what should be adjusted or done perfectly when building the car? I have experience with building race kits, so I won't overlook the obvious(I hope). Thanks

Ctimrun

iTrader: (18)

My scale doesn't do tenths, but the stock rear brace (without set screws) and the Exotek brace show the same weight.......

Ctimrun

iTrader: (18)

Stock steering parts compared to the Exotek steering parts.....