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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-14-2012, 06:38 PM
  #3376  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
(edit, there is one thing that is far better with schumacher.. Manual and bag packaging for the build. Schumacher is #1 there)
So true. I've had a half-finished SVR on my shelf for months and the manual and packaging were the best I've ever seen. I hear the car drives really well too. These are both very good, premium kits. As Brandon said, it really comes down to whether you want to run something that more guys at your track are likely to be running or that your LHS may stock parts for. Or maybe you'd rather be a little different than everyone else. Both good choices.

RB6 is the best buggy I've ever driven though. I highly recommend it.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:07 PM
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Those who have switched from a 22 to an rb6, what would you say the different handling characteristics would be?
Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:20 PM
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What is the part number for the front hinge pin brace? I guess I bent mine somehow?
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:47 PM
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KYOUM720 -Kyosho SP Front Suspension Plate (Type-B)

I believe is the right one
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:12 AM
  #3380  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
well.. not AT the pivot, but close. With a 2mm shim in the rear, the arm is so far forward that the very inner front of the arm hits where the chassis starts to taper inwards towards the back of the car. Just a smidge. I have a .5mm shim in front, and 1.5 in the back, and it's perfect. The arm is shimmed forward, and just barely no contact with the chassis.
I ran 1/1 tonight and it felt really good. I feel like moving the arm back gives the rear end more grip since the shock is moving up and down easier vs at an angle. Hard to explain, but its almost like moving the shock inside on the tower, except forward.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:16 AM
  #3381  
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Originally Posted by ChadB.
True, but the optional front axle (the same one that is standard on the RB6) would allow you to widen the front end about 3mm, which made a big difference in cornering speed.
Yeah but that doesn't change the suspension pivot and shocks like the caster width adjustment.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:01 AM
  #3382  
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
What is the part number for the front hinge pin brace? I guess I bent mine somehow?
I also bent one last night after some contact during a race. I was really surprised it was bent because the contact wasn't significant. I have heard of a couple others at my track also bending them as well, and we don't have many RB6's running (yet). Out of the three heats of stock buggy last night there were only two. I think that piece is a little bit soft.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:11 AM
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That piece has always been like that in the RB5/RT5. If you hit something at the right spot, it bends.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:18 AM
  #3384  
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I don't know if this has already been said or not, but if in a bind the losi 22 ball studs fit if ever in a bind and need one. Just a little tighter on ball cup
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ctimrun
I also bent one last night after some contact during a race. I was really surprised it was bent because the contact wasn't significant. I have heard of a couple others at my track also bending them as well, and we don't have many RB6's running (yet). Out of the three heats of stock buggy last night there were only two. I think that piece is a little bit soft.
After bending my second one with very little contact I have now just purchased the STRacing one and no issues. Cheaper and stronger.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:44 AM
  #3386  
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
After bending my second one with very little contact I have now just purchased the STRacing one and no issues. Cheaper and stronger.
i'm not up to date on my strc parts but unless it's a type b, it's a different part.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:24 AM
  #3387  
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Originally Posted by Eric Tomczyk
That piece has always been like that in the RB5/RT5. If you hit something at the right spot, it bends.
Yup.

You can take two pieces of plexiglass or something similar and sandwich the brace between the two pieces and give it a couple taps with a hammer. That straightens it out fairly well. If you're going to a big race I would change it though.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:07 AM
  #3388  
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
After bending my second one with very little contact I have now just purchased the STRacing one and no issues. Cheaper and stronger.
It is a diferent width and i tried it on my rb5 and instead of breaking the pivot it would break the top bulhead and the bottom chassis clip. Definetly not a good replacement. That part gives for a reason
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:47 PM
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I need so help! I was looking at some of the setups and most pros are running the number 2 shock hole on the rear arm. Are they drilling this hole out or running a different arm completely?
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:50 PM
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you flip the arm around and run the single hole on the arms.
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