pickled

Hey look at this it's an XI zero front alloy knuckle I'm sure it will fit a D3

3-RACING-ZERO-S-XI-BLACK-ALUMINUM-FRONT-UPRIGHT

eunique

iTrader: (3)

nice. thanks. I think I might have a spare plastic one of those. how do we do the mod? and how can I use that for what we want to achieve?

heres pics with overspray film removed and some stickers, light buckets and LED installed...with carbon fiber hood and doors.

I still need to assemble the intercooler and mount it to the chassis and make airdam openings bigger

pickled

looks 1 hundred % better

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Haha...thanks! Looks better than those goofy graphics!

pickled

just read this post properly lol those knuckles aren't what we want. they were just alloy is all. I think we could use street jam or R31 knuckles and cut the bottom mount off drill and tap a hole in the cut section so the lower king pin is offset to the top pin. but the thing is that they are the same as MST knuckles in that they use a larger bearing and the CVD joint sits in the bearing. Possibly may need CVD's as well but need to work out the length of the shafts needed? or fit a bearing into a collar that fits the knuckle?

this is what we are talking about but this is an extreme example

eunique

iTrader: (3)

ahhh...thanks for the explanation and pic...now that pic makes sense. and the difference in pick up points between top and bottom after the bottom "elbow" is cut off would create the difference in top and bottom kingpins. hope that bearing sizing and CVDs don't make it a problem for us.

I ordered the knuckles from eBay with the link u sent me. thanks.

pickled

yeah we'll have to wait till the knuckles arrive so we can see how to include the inner bearing? might be possible to keep the type of bearing we use already and just find something that fits the knuckle the bearing can slide into? otherwise we might need to get some longer shaft CVD's like these 48.5mm shafts


anyway looks like we may be able to keep our CVD's hopefully? the bearings look like the same size as the drive cups and our wheel bearings fit inside them snuggly so I think we'll be right!
I've been talking to another guy doing the same mod to his D3 and he has advised that we need to change the ball joint on the tower to something that only allows vertical movement luckily my tt-01 parts look like they might come in handy with a pair of unused long shock ends fitting the bill perfectly as they are made for a step screw not a ball
here is a pic of the parts

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for that update buddy. I'll have to see how this comes out. My order of the knuckles are shipped already, just have to wait for it.

Btw, I got a little practice in yesterday...only one battery though.
But still good practice. Maybe next week when I have time to practice, I'll try to go out to outer holes on the front lower shock mount on the lower arms and see how that goes

pickled

Hey I modded my steering bellcranks crossbar and added about 4mm to it. I used a piece of plastic I cut out of the surround parts come in(not sure what it's called other than rubbish lol) then drilled out both ends and screwed a 10x3mm grub screw in each end then added ball ends to it. I had to put the balls on the under side of the cranks because the cross bar wouldn't fit on the top side as the rear end of the front bulkhead got in the way I'll post a pic tomorrow.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

plus aren't we going to need either a modded A-arm or different A-arm to attach a ball end to to connect to the lower pin? I'm sure some lower arm from another chassis should fit

eunique

iTrader: (3)

sweet...it seems you now have an even better wider angle?

also, do u have any clearance issues with the front rear mounts? which could limit the travel or is it all clear?

pickled

all clear its closest to the mounts when the wheels are straight. the A-arms I'm going to try modding a ball end to fit like the C-hub

I just bought a set of Active hobby CS gears for my TT-01ED now that is going to have a CS ratio of 2.0 lol

eunique

iTrader: (3)

those gears look nice...too bad they will be hidden.
so, theoretically it should drive close to the D3 since the ratios are pretty close

I can't wait until you get your inclination mod done...and I'm very glad u did not give up in our chassis and stuck with it

sometimes, I get tempted to buy an MST or some other nicer Japanese drift setups...but then I reassess everything and figure when I get the full options on the D3 that it is as good if noT better than a lot of drift chassis out there and maybe cheaper than other fully optioned ones.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

also...I'm very glad I met these 2 nice guys at my LHS both using Xray chassis practicing this one day and I almost bought a RTR sprint2 for drifting...they gave me a heads up about Sakura and ideas on what to get...and now I have both the Zero S and D3

pickled

yeah everyone in the scene seems to be pretty helpful and easy to befriend.
I just smashed one of my new yeah racing rims, Doh. I must have weakened it yesterday when I hit a cement lip. I took it out today and didn't even go near any possible things that could do damage was drifting for about 2mins then the wheel flew off at first I thought I'd lost the nut till I picked up the wheel.