Yokomo MR4TC-BD
10-28-2009, 11:10 AM
#8956
FYI for anyone that's wondering...
the HB front universals are not long enough to fit inside the yokomo outdrives. (i have a yokomo aluminum front spool, btw, for reference).
the rears work fine... perfectly long enough.
i switched back to yokomo knuckles, along with the HB c-hub in the front. i fit the graphite 415s knuckle in the hub by filing it down (slightly) until it fit with the stock HB metal washers.
the HB front universals are not long enough to fit inside the yokomo outdrives. (i have a yokomo aluminum front spool, btw, for reference).
the rears work fine... perfectly long enough.
i switched back to yokomo knuckles, along with the HB c-hub in the front. i fit the graphite 415s knuckle in the hub by filing it down (slightly) until it fit with the stock HB metal washers.
10-28-2009, 01:27 PM
#8957
the rayspeed CVD's are perfect fit (designed for yok) and if you ever
bend or break a bone you can replace the bone with a
Corally MIP CVD ($30/pair)
I tested the corally CVD's in the Yokomo outdrives, perfect fit and they are
the exact same dimensions as Rayspeed bones.
To bad they aren't blue
bend or break a bone you can replace the bone with a
Corally MIP CVD ($30/pair)
I tested the corally CVD's in the Yokomo outdrives, perfect fit and they are
the exact same dimensions as Rayspeed bones.
To bad they aren't blue
10-29-2009, 10:57 PM
#8958
hmm... good info, GSR-turbo. i still have some yeah racing front uni's that are NIP... so i;'m gonna wait till i burn through my current light weight yokomo uni's, and then the YRacing joints before i worry about a new pair.
i'm still working on that bd5 front end conversion, remember?
i'm still working on that bd5 front end conversion, remember?
10-29-2009, 11:19 PM
#8959
yes, i was told by another member on here he saw first hand an old
BD with the BD5 ackerman steering plate on it. He said it "looked like it belonged on the car" and that "it fit perfect".
So im hoping you can also back that up with a picture
Also i've been thinking of using an old BD axle, drill the pin holes out to 2mm
and fit a BD5 coupler/pin and BD5 44mm axle. The stock cross pin on the old
BD is only 1.5mm and breaks often, the beefed up BD5 pin uses a 2mm pin making it 25% stronger.
You would only need to drill the pin holes in the axle to accomodate the larger pin diamater.
BD with the BD5 ackerman steering plate on it. He said it "looked like it belonged on the car" and that "it fit perfect".
So im hoping you can also back that up with a picture
Also i've been thinking of using an old BD axle, drill the pin holes out to 2mm
and fit a BD5 coupler/pin and BD5 44mm axle. The stock cross pin on the old
BD is only 1.5mm and breaks often, the beefed up BD5 pin uses a 2mm pin making it 25% stronger.
You would only need to drill the pin holes in the axle to accomodate the larger pin diamater.
10-30-2009, 02:18 AM
#8961
Good find. I've been wondering about this. I was gonna try it on a friends car, but haven't had time yet. I was worried that the steering rods would hit the suspension blocks. But it looks fine I guess.
10-30-2009, 07:04 AM
#8962
Hey Jimmy, I'm going to convert my BD to the BD5 steering now that I see that it fits with no problems.
10-30-2009, 07:29 AM
#8963
When doing the steering mod I see two problems.
From personal testing experience I know that it's hard to get bumpsteer to a propped amount when fitting a centerpoint unit to the bd steering as the steering links are super hard to get straight / parallel to the wishbone and it will be tough to get full lock
both things are not really an issue to drifters but for serious racers those 2 things are absolutely crucial
From personal testing experience I know that it's hard to get bumpsteer to a propped amount when fitting a centerpoint unit to the bd steering as the steering links are super hard to get straight / parallel to the wishbone and it will be tough to get full lock
both things are not really an issue to drifters but for serious racers those 2 things are absolutely crucial
11-14-2009, 10:38 AM
#8965
Tech Initiate
Ok, when running a spool the CVD drive pin in the standard (Granger Edition) front driveshafts seems to break very easily - the slightest glance of a barrier or coming together and it seems to break everytime.
Now I have dried the 'drill bit' fix (two different brands of drill bit too), but these seem even weaker than the standard pins.
I have got some TiR CVD's to go in, but these also have a very skinny drive pin so don't reckon much on there chances (also quality is very poor with one shaft ok and one with 1mm of play between axle and dogbone straight out of the packet!).
I'm currently running the Yokomo Hardened Steel UJ's and these hold up pretty well, but the drive pins are only a push fit and seem to vibrate loose when running a spool.
I love my BD and this problem does not exist when using a one-way or diff. However it is oh sooooo much better with a spool and I'm desperate to find a fix.
I have thought about drilling out the axle and trunion, enlarging the slot in the dogbone and fitting larger pins, has anyone tried this?
Or maybe trying pins made from piano wire?
Can anyone recommend any other shafts (maybe other manfacturers that will fit with shimming or different bearings)? Any help will be much appreciated.
Cheers
JJC
Now I have dried the 'drill bit' fix (two different brands of drill bit too), but these seem even weaker than the standard pins.
I have got some TiR CVD's to go in, but these also have a very skinny drive pin so don't reckon much on there chances (also quality is very poor with one shaft ok and one with 1mm of play between axle and dogbone straight out of the packet!).
I'm currently running the Yokomo Hardened Steel UJ's and these hold up pretty well, but the drive pins are only a push fit and seem to vibrate loose when running a spool.
I love my BD and this problem does not exist when using a one-way or diff. However it is oh sooooo much better with a spool and I'm desperate to find a fix.
I have thought about drilling out the axle and trunion, enlarging the slot in the dogbone and fitting larger pins, has anyone tried this?
Or maybe trying pins made from piano wire?
Can anyone recommend any other shafts (maybe other manfacturers that will fit with shimming or different bearings)? Any help will be much appreciated.
Cheers
JJC
11-14-2009, 04:30 PM
#8966
jjc,
drill out the axle to 2mm diamater and fit the BD5 pin, coupling and BD5 bone.
These parts are much more durable than the stock 1.5mm junk.
I noticed when i ran a spool in the BD or LCG that the 1.5mm pin in the
front breaks very easily. But once you convert to BD5 parts it won't break
because it is much stronger.
I've used rayspeed CVD's, hardened universals, and SDW universals
and they all break.
Try the BD5 parts with drilled out axle.
drill out the axle to 2mm diamater and fit the BD5 pin, coupling and BD5 bone.
These parts are much more durable than the stock 1.5mm junk.
I noticed when i ran a spool in the BD or LCG that the 1.5mm pin in the
front breaks very easily. But once you convert to BD5 parts it won't break
because it is much stronger.
I've used rayspeed CVD's, hardened universals, and SDW universals
and they all break.
Try the BD5 parts with drilled out axle.
11-15-2009, 08:47 AM
#8968
the pin, the coupling and the bone are different ( of course the axle is
too but that wont fit obviously)
The pin is different because its 2mm instead of 1.5mm and the
coupling is different because its bored to accept 2mm pin.
The bone is different because its designed for a 2mm pin.
oh and use 44mm bone
too but that wont fit obviously)
The pin is different because its 2mm instead of 1.5mm and the
coupling is different because its bored to accept 2mm pin.
The bone is different because its designed for a 2mm pin.
oh and use 44mm bone
Last edited by SammyZ; 11-15-2009 at 08:57 AM.
11-15-2009, 07:20 PM
#8969
what parts are needed for the steering conversion and is there a car with cvd assemblies that are the same size. parts are getting harder to find. thanks