snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

TY

crabboy

iTrader: (58)

Yeah, good enough for a top 30 driver, maybe YOU should try it the other way, you might be surprised.

Martin Hofer

you seriously think i haven't tried that yet? lol

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Have you guys tried the following yet?? (I havent read a lot of pages back so if its been said before I'm wasting your time). I learned this in 1/12th where a diff is more important than in a Touring car.

With Ceramic diff balls the problem is the the balls are too hard to grip on the diff plates. The following instructions will make you be able to use them without having to tightening your diff a lot.
Preparation:
- Take the diff apart and put a heavy cutting (Low grid polish or something like that, I use a paint cutter compound) material on the balls instead of grease.
- Put the diff back together and very slightly tighten it.
- Then start turning the diff by hand every way you want. This will sound awful while you do it and it will feel as if you are scratching the rings.
- Do this untill you feel the compound is gone, refill the diff with it and do it again. do it for 15-20 minutes or so (while watching TV,... whatever).
-After this take it apart and check the rings, you will see that you have cut a really nice groove in which the diff balls will run, this is what you want because you have more ring- material touching the diff balls.
- Clean everything very good! make sure every bit of cutting coumpound is out of the diff and lube as you would do with a normal diff. You will notice you need to put very little pressure to make the balls grip enough to drive with and the diff is silky smooth (just saw the Zohan Movie )

I've been driving Mod with the BD for 3 years now and I have 2 diffs that I interchange every 2-3 months or so, I have yet to put in my first new pair of diff rings, the grooves will stay in perfect shape.

Now, ONLY DO THIS WITH CERAMIC BALLS the cutting coumpound will do nothing to the balls! but dont try it with carbide or steel ones cause this will destroy them.
Oh yeah, I also ca- glue my diff plates to the outputs.

Anyone do this besides me I know in 1/12th there's a bunch of us doing it.

junelopez

Jason,

Thank you for all your help with my setup. You are the man. :0)

Slideaway

Ball Differential... ...long and endless story.

I used to own a BD but I do think it's the same technic for every ball differential.

I just would like to say that a differential IS DEFINITELY NOT a friction device.
RC or Full scale either. By definition, a diff's role is to allow the corner outer wheel to have an independant spining speed with the inner wheel. It MUST be free from any friction other the purpose of such device is not reached.
Freedom is the master word !
Free but not grippy nor slipery, that means the diff ring must have the minium contact with the balls and the thurst bearing is here to allow the requested pressure to avoid any slippery operation.
That's why more than 90% of RC (serious) driver do polish their diff plates to have the smoother diff as possible.

The idea to make a groove in the diff plates is (to my humble opinion) not a good idea and a terrible waste of time (even while watching TV).
About the thurst bearing plates, if they are flat, the best is to keep them flat, so polishing them.
But some diffs (I'm thinking about Robitronic Avid) have a 8x3.5x3 thrust bearing with grooved plates. These are the strongest because the genuine machining is perfect and much preciser than a "Hand breaking made"...

Ideas and discussions are still open!

Nite
Slide

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Hey everyone.
I'm having a bit of a problem bending hinge pins, the rear inner pins usually get bent pretty bad. Is there a tougher replacement?

other than that my Yoks are absolutely bullet proof and so darn fast...
My LCG is a bullet with a 13.5 .....
BD is getting rebuilt this week.

Thanks everyone

Martin Hofer

The Yokomo pins are usually tough enough ...

if nothing bends, the weakest thing breaks ... and that usually is the rearhub or smth like that

you can put in harder hinge pins ... like cut to size springsteel or something ... but the energy of an impact has to be absorbed by something ...

Quante

iTrader: (6)

If you say so buddy.....
I know I tried polishing, sanding and the groove method so I'm speaking of experience... I never comment on something I didnt try yet, keeps me from making foolish remarks (since grip of the balls and plates is bad according to you, you must be the guy with a slipping diff).

magnum

iTrader: (2)

I like the diff rings sanded smooth. I think the adjustmnet is critical.
It needs to be tight enough that it doesn`t slip on a hard straight line acceleration but loose enough to let the outside wheel rotate more around a corner. Diff adjustment can be a good tuning tool. I like the feel of the front diff being a little tighter than the rear.

Slideaway

Oh Boy! Feelin' on defensive mind, Quante ;-)

Really, I'm quite sure you tried and approved your sayings before sharing them, I never meant otherwise.
Also according to my experience, I never met any slipping issues since I'm polishing my diff plates and with a normal tightening torque, the rotation of each outdrives is totaly free and reliable overtime. Anyway, thanks for your concern.

Everybody is free to use what they believe being the right method. It doesn't mean the other's technic is obligatorily the bad one.

There's no idiot around, all is about opening minds...

Slide

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Thanks Martin, appreciate the response.

mark34

iTrader: (1)

Blimey only wanted some advice on how to get the diff working sweet did not mean to start a war of words lol
Mark

Martin Hofer

blog updated ... just to let you know

capellone24

Congrats to Martin for the second place at the german TC championship !!!

http://www.redrc.net/2008/09/marc-fi...rman-tc-title/