Yokomo MR4TC-BD
12-08-2007, 05:17 AM
#7906
To mount the HB C hubs you need to use the HB top hats. There are 2 ways you can do it. The first way (the way Chris does it) is to cut the flange part off one of the top hats. You then put the steering arm in the castor block and put the bottom top hat (the one not trimmed) in from underneath the castor block and insert the screw. Then using the trimmed top hat insert it in the top and screw the balljoint in.
I do it slightly different in that i machine off the top of the steering hub so instead of the having the slight curve on the top its flat and insert a untrimmed top hat before i put the steering hub in.
I do it slightly different in that i machine off the top of the steering hub so instead of the having the slight curve on the top its flat and insert a untrimmed top hat before i put the steering hub in.
12-09-2007, 02:20 PM
#7907
Tech Adept
Refers to the HB hub bushings. You cannot use the Yokomo kingpin when doing this mod. It doesent fit.
12-09-2007, 02:33 PM
#7908
Hello guys, I want to know if anyone knows if another manufacturers differential joints can be mounted on our Yokomo, like Hot Bodies, Tamiya, etc... Here in Spain is really difficult to find something of Yokomo because we have a shit disfribuitor...
Thanks to all
Thanks to all
12-09-2007, 03:13 PM
#7909
12-10-2007, 12:31 AM
#7910
Thanks
12-10-2007, 09:33 AM
#7911
Tech Initiate
2mm on the droop gauge? that's by far too much
:erm next thing I want to ask is what ball joints you are all using it seems that even when I change them on a regular basis they still pop of with relative ease.
I have tryed RPM (to big) and the yokomo anti roll bar ones, when speakin to another driver on sunday they sujested the xray ball joints.
Does any 1 now if they fit??????
12-10-2007, 01:51 PM
#7912
Yokomo BX-Ballcups part# zc-207hd
you have to remove some material from the front outer ballcup so stop it from hitting the top of the c-hub
but then you won't suffer from ballcups popping of anymore
you have to remove some material from the front outer ballcup so stop it from hitting the top of the c-hub
but then you won't suffer from ballcups popping of anymore
12-10-2007, 01:55 PM
#7913
associated ballcups are the way to go.
12-10-2007, 02:51 PM
#7914
Tech Initiate
nice 1 martin thanks for the advive
the associated 1s are the RPM ones if in correct but will order some of them bx cups
the associated 1s are the RPM ones if in correct but will order some of them bx cups
12-10-2007, 02:59 PM
#7915
DROOP
Thanks for the advice. Originally, was thinking of setting droop 5 all around and ride height 5/5 and starting off from there. Let me try your droop setting of 6/5. Thats sounds logical.
12-10-2007, 05:08 PM
#7916
the associated ones are not the RPM ones and are superior and cheaper than BX.
12-10-2007, 10:51 PM
#7917
maybe, but it's all about the look of the ballcups 
if they do the same job take the best looking
if they do the same job take the best looking
12-11-2007, 03:37 AM
#7918
BX look crap to big and bulky and need modifying, and only hold a little better than standard.
12-13-2007, 04:04 AM
#7920
Would help if you stopped stuffing it and tearing wheels off Chaz! Ive always used rollbar ends on SD and never pooped one. changed all my BD's to new std ends before CW and haven't pooped one of them either (in mod) - wot are you doing
As for droop no wonder your car bucks, rolls, swaps ends so easily. you should have asked me and Si for this. I run 6/5 on hudy gauges and it's great. I'll have a look for you on Friday.
As for droop no wonder your car bucks, rolls, swaps ends so easily. you should have asked me and Si for this. I run 6/5 on hudy gauges and it's great. I'll have a look for you on Friday.