Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#5476
Tech Adept
Mark
2.5 and 0.5 is going to give you more steering, obviously with a sacrifice in stability. I normally only run the car like that if I know I have plenty of grip. 3 and 0 is always a safer option. I think a few tracks in the UK suffer from heat, we're just not used to it I guess.
Hopefully Southend won't be too hot for the national, feel free to come over and say hi. Hopefully car will be good for that weekend, she was very nice at Halifax.
Stu
2.5 and 0.5 is going to give you more steering, obviously with a sacrifice in stability. I normally only run the car like that if I know I have plenty of grip. 3 and 0 is always a safer option. I think a few tracks in the UK suffer from heat, we're just not used to it I guess.
Hopefully Southend won't be too hot for the national, feel free to come over and say hi. Hopefully car will be good for that weekend, she was very nice at Halifax.
Stu
#5477
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys are the SD's arms shorter than the BD's. I was wanting to know if there is a advantage to running the shorter arms and I purchased mip cvd's that are for the SD that im putting on my BD and I noticed that they barely fit in the drive cups.
#5479
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by performance26
Hey guys are the SD's arms shorter than the BD's. I was wanting to know if there is a advantage to running the shorter arms and I purchased mip cvd's that are for the SD that im putting on my BD and I noticed that they barely fit in the drive cups.
#5480
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by pops
You might have the CVDs from the old belt car MR4-TC Special. The bones were longer on the front and shorter on the rear. The new car ( SD and BD) uses the same size rear bones (shorter) on the front for clearance.
#5481
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
bd guys picture this:
i drove my bd for the first time last night and if i turn left on the corner my car is loose on power...and just today i went back to the track and try to change set up , while i was driving i snap the rear right tire (if the car's rear is facing at you)
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
i drove my bd for the first time last night and if i turn left on the corner my car is loose on power...and just today i went back to the track and try to change set up , while i was driving i snap the rear right tire (if the car's rear is facing at you)
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
#5483
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by pinggoy
bd guys picture this:
i drove my bd for the first time last night and if i turn left on the corner my car is loose on power...and just today i went back to the track and try to change set up , while i was driving i snap the rear right tire (if the car's rear is facing at you)
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
i drove my bd for the first time last night and if i turn left on the corner my car is loose on power...and just today i went back to the track and try to change set up , while i was driving i snap the rear right tire (if the car's rear is facing at you)
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
#5484
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by pinggoy
i measure the components of my car and the 3800 is like 400g and esc,motor,amb, receiver, and servo. is like 320g...is it kinda big difference. and where would i put the weights?
Just make sure you get your weight distribution correct, and remember get the weight as low down and as close to the centre line as possible
#5485
adding weight.
adding weight can be a good thing if you need to fine tune the car. But like Vortex said, you need to do it so the car keeps its current weight distributiom.
But you can put it lots of spaces. opposite motoe, under belt, on the front shoulders of the chassis. If you have access to a set of scales you need to try and weig each corner of the car and mach the weight distribution from corner to corner, and at least try to correct any uneveness left to right.
It takes time but its worth it. Then you can plsy around with the weights position and get more front or rear grip by moving it forewards or backwards.
But you can put it lots of spaces. opposite motoe, under belt, on the front shoulders of the chassis. If you have access to a set of scales you need to try and weig each corner of the car and mach the weight distribution from corner to corner, and at least try to correct any uneveness left to right.
It takes time but its worth it. Then you can plsy around with the weights position and get more front or rear grip by moving it forewards or backwards.
#5486
Tech Elite
pops, i bought the rayspeed cvds front and rear, the fronts came very close to the edge of the outdrive so i don't use them, however i did have a set of nip mip bones so i was able to use the rayspeed axle part.
the question about steering, and rear toe, i take away a much rear toe as possible. esp with a spool, right now i'm down to 2 degrees rear toe and have no traction problems. looking at using a old plastic rear block from the ssg/cgm to get down to 1 or 1.5, i worried about sanding it down and it being uneven.
also going up one spring rate in the rear will help with steering with a spool.
of course this is all my experience for my driving style.
the question about steering, and rear toe, i take away a much rear toe as possible. esp with a spool, right now i'm down to 2 degrees rear toe and have no traction problems. looking at using a old plastic rear block from the ssg/cgm to get down to 1 or 1.5, i worried about sanding it down and it being uneven.
also going up one spring rate in the rear will help with steering with a spool.
of course this is all my experience for my driving style.
#5487
What about running the 2 degree block in the rear but run the 1/2 degree right axle block on the left side and vica versa to achieve close 1.5 degrees total toe in. or you can do this with the 1 degree rear blocks. What do you think.
#5488
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Originally Posted by Turtlemaster
pops, i bought the rayspeed cvds front and rear, the fronts came very close to the edge of the outdrive so i don't use them, however i did have a set of nip mip bones so i was able to use the rayspeed axle part.
the question about steering, and rear toe, i take away a much rear toe as possible. esp with a spool, right now i'm down to 2 degrees rear toe and have no traction problems. looking at using a old plastic rear block from the ssg/cgm to get down to 1 or 1.5, i worried about sanding it down and it being uneven.
also going up one spring rate in the rear will help with steering with a spool.
of course this is all my experience for my driving style.
the question about steering, and rear toe, i take away a much rear toe as possible. esp with a spool, right now i'm down to 2 degrees rear toe and have no traction problems. looking at using a old plastic rear block from the ssg/cgm to get down to 1 or 1.5, i worried about sanding it down and it being uneven.
also going up one spring rate in the rear will help with steering with a spool.
of course this is all my experience for my driving style.
#5489
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by pops
If you disconect the shocks, are your arms being restricted by the cvd's hitting the cups? If not there is no problem.
#5490
Tech Elite
Originally Posted by fpart
What about running the 2 degree block in the rear but run the 1/2 degree right axle block on the left side and vica versa to achieve close 1.5 degrees total toe in. or you can do this with the 1 degree rear blocks. What do you think.
thanks for the info rocket