mwoods

hi,

any1 got the part number 4 the rear suspension mount used on chris crainger
car

thanks

tcfree

Try that.


That shud help

John Pape

Ballcups are from the BX buggy, fit alot nicer with no play. You can also go one further and fit the BX balljoints which have a 2mm hex in them.
The rear mount on the front are the new style one piece ally versions, these allow you to put them on straight. The standard 2 piece ones you can put on at all sort of angles if not paying attention. (try it) Part no for car rear front is SD-300RF and the car front rear is SD-300FR.
By running the car rear front on the front it gives the suspension pins a slight bit of toe out, increasing steering reaction. To do this you have to file 1mm off to keep the roll centre the same.

pops

iTrader: (1)

John, I have a question, hope you can answer this. Being that the old rear front suspension mount (SD-300RF) will mount 1mm higher than the newer mounts, is Chris running anti-dive or is he shimming up the front suspension mount to make the front a high roll center and level? I can't tell if maybe he took off a mm on the R suspension mount and has a shim under it?

MARKANO

No sure by replacing the "Split Type" suspension mount "F" with the "R" will have similar Tou-Out effect instead of the one-piece type "R" block??

Noted that the belt will have to go below suspension mount if using the one-piece type.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

The FR one piece suspension block is made for the task specifically and so that it clears the block correctly.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

FYI, the block installed on the Masami Edition :


From YokomoUSA.com

Turtlemaster

what is the advantage of the one piece over the two piece

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

To be able to do this what do you have to file?

pops

iTrader: (1)

You would have to file a mm off the bottom of the old suspension mount. I just tried putting the older taller one piece mount on the front and it does give you a little extra toe out. But, it looks like if you filed a mm off the bottom to reduce the height the belt would rub on the underside of the mount. The picture supplied looks like there is a 1mm spacer under the mount? I am running the new solid SD-300FR with 1mm spacers and it was designed to clear the belt on the BD. This came out with the new SD-300RF for the rear of the car. The old style are not being produced anymore, this is a part that is being changed with no new part number.

Rowdy

So putting the "new" SD-300RF in the FR position on the car, will result in a slight inboard toe out situation. This must be because it is slightly narrower than the SD-300FR, is this correct?

How/why will inboard toe effect the handleing of the car? Do you have to set the outboard toe to its original setting, or just run with the slight increase in overall toe?

Will the SD-300RF fit directly to the FR position without modification? I understand that this will effect roll center and will need to remove 1mm in order to restore factory roll center settings.

John Pape

When running the rear mount on the front he takes 1mm from the underside so as to keep the roll centre the same as running a 1mm spacer under the normal front one (hope that makes sense). We always run 1mm spacers under the front blocks and none under the rear so as to keep the roll centre the same front and rear.
No antidive.

John Pape

Yes, belt goes below one piece mount on front.

John Pape

Advantage is that you can screw them straight on and they are totally straight on the car. With the split ones because the countersunking on the chassis is slightly too big for the screw you can put the left and right mounts on at completely different angles. Also easier to adjust roll centre due to only having to align 1 hole each side when putting in spacers.

John Pape

The underside of the mount.