Yokomo MR4TC-BD
12-29-2005, 07:38 PM
#4081
Hey guys can you post what you think of my yokomo bd and give me any tips or ideas that i can improve the handeling of my bd
jut 1 question how do i know if my diff is too tight or too loose?
Help would be appreciated
jamie
jut 1 question how do i know if my diff is too tight or too loose?
Help would be appreciated
jamie
12-29-2005, 07:51 PM
#4083
From order of necessicity:
1. P-Dub hard front bumper.
2. Place the steering turnbuckles below the bell crank plate and on the bottom side of the the carrier.
3. Use the Yokomo sway bar open ball cups for the bulkhead side of the camber links. Also, use HPI titanium ball studs on the bulkheads. That way you can just use a hex driver to take off the studs and remove diffs or change roll centers.
4. Use a button head screw for the outer servo mount (where the chassis makes a fin). That will allow the screw to grinde on the asphalt and not the chassis which will eventually snap off. ONLY do this mod if you run on asphalt that is bumpy or low traction.
5. Do a search on this thread for info on how to properly build a diff.
6. If you decide to run a spool, upgrade to either TiR worlds edition CVDs or Rayspeed axles and TC4 bones (which require much grinding, but are very durable)
7. Run 64 pitch gears
8. Get a servo horn with a built in servo saver.
9. Use RPM or Schumacher ball cups for the outer sides of camber links and all steering linkages.
10. Enjoy the best engineered belt driven car on the market. Then laugh at your fellow racers when they struggle to remove diffs or change spurs.
(Disclaimer: This may cause bodily harm if fellow racers are 300lb bikers named Bubba)
1. P-Dub hard front bumper.
2. Place the steering turnbuckles below the bell crank plate and on the bottom side of the the carrier.
3. Use the Yokomo sway bar open ball cups for the bulkhead side of the camber links. Also, use HPI titanium ball studs on the bulkheads. That way you can just use a hex driver to take off the studs and remove diffs or change roll centers.
4. Use a button head screw for the outer servo mount (where the chassis makes a fin). That will allow the screw to grinde on the asphalt and not the chassis which will eventually snap off. ONLY do this mod if you run on asphalt that is bumpy or low traction.
5. Do a search on this thread for info on how to properly build a diff.
6. If you decide to run a spool, upgrade to either TiR worlds edition CVDs or Rayspeed axles and TC4 bones (which require much grinding, but are very durable)
7. Run 64 pitch gears
8. Get a servo horn with a built in servo saver.
9. Use RPM or Schumacher ball cups for the outer sides of camber links and all steering linkages.
10. Enjoy the best engineered belt driven car on the market. Then laugh at your fellow racers when they struggle to remove diffs or change spurs.
(Disclaimer: This may cause bodily harm if fellow racers are 300lb bikers named Bubba)
12-29-2005, 07:52 PM
#4084
Most important thing I do to mine is to make sure its not tweaked from a hit by loosening the top deck screws, giving the car a bit of a flex, then tightening them up again. Make sure you do it on a flat setup board though.
Not really a setup tip, but if you've got a tweak in the chassis that should get rid of it. Do it after each run.
Not really a setup tip, but if you've got a tweak in the chassis that should get rid of it. Do it after each run.
12-29-2005, 07:54 PM
#4085
Who has had a chance to try out their team bomber belt yet? Are there any differences over the original belts?
12-29-2005, 07:54 PM
#4086
Hey thanx guys ur a great help can someoen give me a link to the difff rebuild please that would be great.
12-29-2005, 07:56 PM
#4087
Here is a link to the search page, better than any one link could ever be 
http://www.rctech.net/forum/search.php
http://www.rctech.net/forum/search.php
12-29-2005, 07:59 PM
#4088
Originally Posted by pops
It is supposed to take out some of the slop in the drivetrain, did you notice any improvement?
Ok, my original review wasn't accurate. I thought I didn't notice a difference when I put in the LW shaft. So today, I put in the original to double check my first thought, and sure enough, it had a slight amount of slop. Then I put the LW shaft back in and all slop was removed.
So I figured that the freeness of the original center assembly is what it allowed the spur to spin for close to a minute which a flick of the finger. When I put in the LW shaft, I actually gained about 10 seconds of spin, so not only did it remove some slop, but it increase efficiency.
12-29-2005, 09:06 PM
#4089
Hey guys thanx for the tips i used all of the tips and pretty much set up my car drove it and it was great.
I was wondering who uses 68 pitch and who uses 48 pitch and wat the pros and cons of it..
jamie
I was wondering who uses 68 pitch and who uses 48 pitch and wat the pros and cons of it..
jamie
12-29-2005, 10:18 PM
#4090
i use a spool on a very tight, fast, very high grip asphalt indoor track, with tamiya/japan style curbing, so i use 48 pitch gears, the 64's strip on impact after a crash.
12-29-2005, 10:36 PM
#4091
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I like the Yokomo heavy duty bumper. And as far as the outer servo mount, you can cut it off and use the inner mount only and shoe-goo the servo in place. This way nothing will drag on the track.
64 pitch will allow you more adjustment and 48 pitch is more durable. If you use 64 pitch use a machined spur like RW gears, they are super durable.
64 pitch will allow you more adjustment and 48 pitch is more durable. If you use 64 pitch use a machined spur like RW gears, they are super durable.
12-30-2005, 08:37 AM
#4093
How do you do that? I have an RDX as well as a BD.
Does it just fit straight in there?
Also people, which spool is best? Had the Yokomo one for a while until it broke, fancy something better
Does it just fit straight in there?
Also people, which spool is best? Had the Yokomo one for a while until it broke, fancy something better
12-30-2005, 08:51 AM
#4094
Tech Regular
The TiR one is the best one iv found, just not used the shooters one (dont plan to). Its light and very tough.
12-30-2005, 09:03 AM
#4095
Speedtech makes a good spool for mod/19turn racing. It's solid steel and has no give. So if you use that spool, you'll have to upgrade you whole front driveshafts to keep them from snapping. I broke my speedtech last week, so I'm using the Yokomo plastic spool this week. I've used it before and it gives less steering than the speedtech b/c it takes weight off the front of the car.