Ramyuras

I don't think I am getting this gearing stuff, I am using 98 spur and 49-52 pinion with the 18t pully for rubber on carpet and reading on some of the post about gearing it seems as if I am undergear using 17.5 trinity motor the only problem I am having is if I go up to 52t pinion me lap time go's up and if I use the 49t pinion my time go's down and the lap time is more consistant but now I see most of the guys on this thread are geared much higher I am about 2sec off the fastest pace am I not getting something here about my gearing, my home track is about 90'x40-50 some where around there any suggestion.

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

Terrible ca marche de chez moi!!!

Je vais voir pour le lipo, je dois en avoir 1 en rad...

I think that this a free adaptation of Xray elements on Cyclone... very interesting hybrid...

(it seems that some pics have been removed... try http://www.petitrc.com/gallery/brows...&c=104&page=28)

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Read thru this article: http://aedownloads.com/pdf/gear_ratios.pdf

pretty much all the basics of gearing is explained there and should be helpful to you

with 18T pulleys, your Cyclone's internal ratio is 2.166

So with a 98T Spur and 49T pinion, your Final drive ratio(FDR) is: 4.33
(98 divided by 49, multipled by 2.166 = 4.33)

98 Spur and 51T pinion, you get a 4.16 Final drive ratio(FDR)
(98/51 X 2.166= 4.16 )

This should be fine for the 90' track you're running on...try to gear it so that:

1) car reaches tops out top speed at around 90% of straightaway
2) doesnt over heat: keep motor ESC temps below 180F...you're topping out around the 90% mark and your motor's coming off the track in the 170+ deg range, then maybe you should go down a tooth or two on your pinion gear.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hey mate, ditch your Cyclone, this new chassis thing is worth at least 0.5s per lap!!!

I doubt HB will go through the pain or releasing another chassis anytime soon - The TC are backordered in a lot of places, still.

Curious to read whose cars this was - prolly a creative privateer's

Si tu peux m'amener le lipo samedi t'es un champion

Later
Paul

cyclone speed

Salut les gars , je pensai etre le seul francais ici mais non , c'est cool car si ca vous derange pas j'ai des question a propo de ma cyclone WCE , plutot des probleme que des question .
Je vais peut etre melanger les mot englai avec le francais mais pas beaucoup .
Alors , quand je regle ma cyclone comme le droop , jutilise des droop gauges mes a droit ca affiche 5.5 est a gauche ca affiche 7 pour que mes roue ce leve au meme moment sur une surface plate .
C'est a dire que ci je met 5.5 droite gauche de droop , la roue de gauche touche le sol avant le roue droite , donc il faut qur je mette 7 gauche et 5.5 droite pour que mes 2 roue touch le sol en meme temps .
Je roule avec 5 cell en avant alor esce que le probleme c'est que a cause du poid du moteur a la gauche , la roue gauche apuie plus a cause du poid comparer a la roue droite qui a moin de poid car mes batterie sont a lavant.
Esce que vous pouvez m'aide sil vous plait , Merci d'avance les mec .

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

I suspect that if the TC is heavily backordered it may have something to do with the worlds and the hope that they will have a new worlds edition cyclone to present.

rc pete

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, I just corrected the setup sheet and edited my post.

Regarding a push with a spool, if you take a look at most of the posted Carpet Rubber tire setups at http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=4553, including the standard carpet setup, you'll see that a good majority are running a front spool.

Compared to a diff, I find with the spool, the initial turn-in is crisper, you get a little less mid-corner steering, and then on-power you get better forward traction. In carpet racing, I find that the mid-corner (or steady state) segment of most turns is very short (compared to long winding pavement tracks, where you'd probably run a one-way). As a result, I find that the amount of mid-corner steering isn't as important as being able to transition or rotate the car, which it does well.
But if you're finding a mid-corner push, try increasing the front inboard toe.
Other things to try would be softer front springs or a softer front swaybar... it will prevent the front end from flattening out too early and it will continue to carve into the turn. Also, a lower front roll center or higher front camber rise would increase mid-corner steering.

Ramyuras

Yyhsyym thanks for the info but I know all that stuff already just can't figure out why my ratio is different.

RCPETE thanks for all that info I will try that out.

yyhayyim

iTrader: (26)

Oh...sorry bro...well, it's probably because of the internal ratio changes when you went from the stock pulley to the 18T center pulleys.

Witht he stock 16T Pulley internal ratio is 2.4375, but with the 18T center pulleys, it changes to 2.166.

If you're using the 18T pulleys now, your interan is 2.166, and your gearing calculations have to be made with the 2.166 ratio.

Others might be offering gearing info but are probably using the 16T pulleys 2.4375 IR, and didn't realize you were using the 18T pulleys, and that's why it appears you were off.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Salut

let's keep the french language to the non-serious discussions otherwise we'll PO the other readers.

- make sure the shocks have the same length 2 by 2
- no matter what make sure they are long enough to not limit the a-arms; the droop screws should do that, not the shocks
- make sure chassis is perfectly flat (shouldn't move on the droop stands)
- set the droop symmetrically on the droop gauges fist
that takes care of the tweak - your car is now flat and symmetrical

now
- put wheels back on
- then set ride height
- set camber
- then pump the rear shocks
- then lift the front wheels
- if the front left lifts first, then screw in the rear right shock collar by a bit and unscrew the rear left by the same bit, that "tilts" the car while keeping ride height the same
- repeat till front wheels lift at the same time
- Do the same with the rear end
- check camber-ride height and repeat till correct
that takes care of the rest - your car should now drive as close as straight as possible when braking and accelerating

the above assumes the static weights are properly distributed. I remember my FK05 was 100% balanced with GP3300... but with lipos it's obviously light on the lipo side and no amount of shock preload will ever fix that, so you have to adjust the best you can and find a proper tradeoff.

NOW - the real reality check is to properly measure and adjust corner weight with 4 scales, adjust with the shock preload, and add weight on the one light corner once you can't do any better. But that's pushing it a bit.

Car tweak is not simple

Paul

Coldn

iTrader: (1)

Who know this guy??



whit this car... (new Hotbodies???)

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

here comes the x-clone again

if hara, moore and the other HB hotshots run the "standard" car, this means this is anything but a the new cyclone but, as said, a well-realised, creative privateer's effort.

no worries anyway - the cyclone (even the non-TC one) is still just as fast as anything out there

Paul

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

based on the topdeck it looks like a Mi3...

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

**COUGH** **COUGH**

Faster

Looks like there is more room to fit LiPos.

cyclone speed

Ok , but i will try everything , set it up properly and i will de tweak it with 4 scales , cheers for the help