Hot Bodies Cyclone
03-18-2008, 05:45 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
03-18-2008, 06:57 AM
Does anyone have a setup for the Cyclone from an American race. IIC or the Birds maybe. I am looking for both foam and rubber setup. All I can find is setups from accross the pond.
03-18-2008, 07:57 AM
03-18-2008, 09:11 AM
The 3x1.1mm pistons are very important outdoors, the part number for the machined type is #HP73524, although I'm not sure where they can be found in the US....I'm quite sure the pistons on the teflon set from the Pro 4 are not 1.1mm, although as the holes are smaller they should be easily drilled out to 1.1mm.
03-18-2008, 09:17 AM
I finally got done putting my Moorespeed together. Didn’t go for AE diff screw, not sure what I did wrong. I couldn’t make the diff to stay tight, AE diff screw kept backing out from the T-nut even during the diff break in period.
Fortunately my LHS has a few bags of an old Pro 4 diff screw so I empty her shelf. I’m pretty sure I will snap more of them screws. The diff is still slipping while I was holding the spur and one wheel I was able to spin the other wheel with moderate force. I guess I will tighten the diff screw when I have a chance to run the car on the actual track this weekend.
I was trying to find Hara’s guide but I think it no longer available on the net. Anyone know if there is another copy on the net?
Fortunately my LHS has a few bags of an old Pro 4 diff screw so I empty her shelf. I’m pretty sure I will snap more of them screws. The diff is still slipping while I was holding the spur and one wheel I was able to spin the other wheel with moderate force. I guess I will tighten the diff screw when I have a chance to run the car on the actual track this weekend.
I was trying to find Hara’s guide but I think it no longer available on the net. Anyone know if there is another copy on the net?
03-18-2008, 09:21 AM
I finally got done putting my Moorespeed together. Didn’t go for AE diff screw, not sure what I did wrong. I couldn’t make the diff to stay tight, AE diff screw kept backing out from the T-nut even during the diff break in period.
Fortunately my LHS has a few bags of an old Pro 4 diff screw so I empty her shelf. I’m pretty sure I will snap more of them screws. The diff is still slipping while I was holding the spur and one wheel I was able to spin the other wheel with moderate force. I guess I will tighten the diff screw when I have a chance to run the car on the actual track this weekend.
I was trying to find Hara’s guide but I think it no longer available on the net. Anyone know if there is another copy on the net?
Fortunately my LHS has a few bags of an old Pro 4 diff screw so I empty her shelf. I’m pretty sure I will snap more of them screws. The diff is still slipping while I was holding the spur and one wheel I was able to spin the other wheel with moderate force. I guess I will tighten the diff screw when I have a chance to run the car on the actual track this weekend.
I was trying to find Hara’s guide but I think it no longer available on the net. Anyone know if there is another copy on the net?
http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/AH/setting/cyclone01.htm
03-18-2008, 09:29 AM
Sometimes the diff slipping is due to the lubes used, what did you use?
http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/AH/setting/cyclone01.htm
http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/AH/setting/cyclone01.htm
I'm using Associated stealth differential lube and HPI graphite grease for the thrust balls. Cyclone diff is really giving me the fist!!
I never had such a hard time building diff as this Cyclone, just can't get it right or at least close to the way I wanted.
03-18-2008, 09:47 AM
Thanks for the link
I'm using Associated stealth differential lube and HPI graphite grease for the thrust balls. Cyclone diff is really giving me the fist!!
I never had such a hard time building diff as this Cyclone, just can't get it right or at least close to the way I wanted.
I'm using Associated stealth differential lube and HPI graphite grease for the thrust balls. Cyclone diff is really giving me the fist!!
I never had such a hard time building diff as this Cyclone, just can't get it right or at least close to the way I wanted.
Copy the Hara guide when building your diff, with the exception of when building the diff Hara puts a small purple shim under the t-nut, this is only needed with the older delrin outdrives, not with the WCE alu type.
I think because your diff is new that it will need running in and tightening accordingly which is why it still slips.
03-18-2008, 09:56 AM
I dont get why people are having so much trouble with their diffs? Are you guys rushing thru the build? I spend at least 30 minutes building 1 ball diff. I make sure everything is super super clean with motor spray, wiping everything down with clean paper towels. I use motor sprayed q-tips to finish the cleaning.
I've got maybe 35 runs on my ball diffs with no slipping and no broken diff screws. Following the instructions and taking your time is so key.
I've got maybe 35 runs on my ball diffs with no slipping and no broken diff screws. Following the instructions and taking your time is so key.
03-18-2008, 10:00 AM
Anyone got a link to the Hara build guide in ENGLISH.
03-18-2008, 10:04 AM
03-18-2008, 10:15 AM
I noticed that Hara used some sort of primer before he CAd the chassis. Exactly what type of primer is it.
03-18-2008, 10:20 AM
Steve,
Any idea if the onroad HB team guys use the stock ballstuds or do they get optional Ti ones.
Thanks for the input.
Any idea if the onroad HB team guys use the stock ballstuds or do they get optional Ti ones.
Thanks for the input.
03-18-2008, 10:22 AM
03-18-2008, 10:38 AM
I dont get why people are having so much trouble with their diffs? Are you guys rushing thru the build? I spend at least 30 minutes building 1 ball diff. I make sure everything is super super clean with motor spray, wiping everything down with clean paper towels. I use motor sprayed q-tips to finish the cleaning.
I've got maybe 35 runs on my ball diffs with no slipping and no broken diff screws. Following the instructions and taking your time is so key.
I've got maybe 35 runs on my ball diffs with no slipping and no broken diff screws. Following the instructions and taking your time is so key.
If this was my first diff I would agree with you about rushing to put it together. But my first hand on building the diff was with Serpent 6000 back in 80’s, so I guess I can say I have been building a few more diff since then.
Cyclone diff couldn’t need more time to put it together then Xray, Kyosho, Tamiya and the rest of the kits available today. 35 runs on a single rebuilt sound impressive but if you try to run Xray diff you would say WOW 150 runs so and it still smooth like a butter.
I’ll figure it out one way or the other.