cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

My main track is large, outdoor asphalt, and a little bumpy in a few spots.
Please have a look at the link below (I think you can see it from space!!).

http://www.nearmap.com/[email protected]&nmd=20100216

Cheers

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

a new (larger) one will be posted soon.

Itchy

iTrader: (1)

Ok, thanks. I run stock, but were i live stock is 9.5t, so i have to give it a try

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Here ya go!

BLUE 2

iTrader: (23)

Hi

Thanks for that

Do you get any front tyre grooving on the inside with this setup ?

Thanks

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Honestly... I get it with every setup. I've never had a car that didn't do it, so I don't pay attention to it anymore.

warnos

iTrader: (11)

On the settings that Korey has used.. what does it do to the rear of the car when you swap the shims in the rear hub / rear arm joint. Does it increase the wheel base and make it less prone to spin from the rear as there is less weight behind the wheel?? or does it do something else.. I usually have the standard settings here which is 2mm at the rear and .7 at the front on the hub joint (don't know what else to call tha area)..

I will give it a go next meet but just want to see what affects on handling I should be looking out for..

Thanks

RaceAce701

iTrader: (87)

anyone ???

Danny-b23

iTrader: (3)

It seems to depend a lot on the tire, doesn't matter what car. Maybe something to do with the insert/tire combos.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

When I lengthen the wheel base in the rear at the inner hinge pins, the car is usually a little smoother on entry into the corner, and has a little bit more mid-exit steering. Shortening it does the exact opposite. A little bit better entry steering, and less mid-exit on tighter corners.

When I change wheelbase at the hub, it seems to do act a little bit different. I don't notice much change in how much steering the car has, but I notice more about the forward grip the car has. Shorter... more forward grip. Longer... less forward grip. I think it has something to do with the driveshaft angle more than anything, but honestly I almost never play with these adjustments. I leave it all stock pretty much.

In the front I slam the arms all the way back (all shims in front of the arm) to give the shortest wheelbase from the front. Seems like it gives it a little bit more of an edgy feeling (which I like). If you just want to give the car that nice Caddilac feel... lengthen the front.

You might feel something different. Just give it a shot and see what you think. That is what I have found to work for me.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Usually it effects how stiff the bladder is and how much rebound will result. Foam is obviously softer than the orings, so it shoul dhave a less aggressive effect. When I run the foam, I usually get a little more rebound than if I didnt use it. I feel it also makes the shock pack up a little quicker since the bladder won't be deflecting as much. This forces the oil through the piston, rather than just moving up the shock body if the bladder were to deflect.

Right now, I usually run zero rebound. I drill a small 1mm hole in the shock cap and dont run any foam. Usually when I build shocks they get a tiny bit of rebound, then it goes away after the first run. Seems to work pretty good for me!

-Korey

RaceAce701

iTrader: (87)

thanks abunch that was exactly was i was looking for

ur the best

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

50% off 3racing Cyclone part closeout at Speedtech!

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Hi Korey, I'm assuming this is for asphault. Would you drill the cap for carpet of average grip ?
Thanks.

duggyload

Hi could somebody please help me
this is my first time racing on rubber tyres
the tyres we use are spec tyres the problem is the car is very loose at the back on and off power after the first 2 min
here is my setup
thanks