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Old 03-01-2010, 07:47 PM
  #18616  
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question

i have noticed that on carpet a minor impact like a tapping a a wall the car seems to tweak, has anyone eles seen this. is there anything to do to make the car more resistant to not tweaking. besides dont tap the wall.

thanks
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:10 PM
  #18617  
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Originally Posted by RLMW VQ
question

i have noticed that on carpet a minor impact like a tapping a a wall the car seems to tweak, has anyone eles seen this. is there anything to do to make the car more resistant to not tweaking. besides dont tap the wall.

thanks
eehmm don't tap the wall......
no seriously it is the best way and all cars seem to tweak after a touch. look at the videos from the european championships, ronald volker with his yokomo jumped on a dot and didn't continue running that run as his car was tweaked...
a dot is no where near equal to a wall.
only thing i think of is don't use light metal screws for the topdeck only steel and tighten them down decently. losen and tighten the topdeck screws after each run!
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:55 AM
  #18618  
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Default xenon tires

i was wondering if anyone ran Xenon 28 tires and if so, do you have recommendations for a setup for asphalt low/med traction.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:56 PM
  #18619  
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This has probably been asked before, but has anyone tried using the Xray front hubs, as im fed up buying a front and a rear, and eneding up with loads of rears. Can anyone tell me if the ackerman will be the same please.
Cheers Malc
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:10 PM
  #18620  
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan
This has probably been asked before, but has anyone tried using the Xray front hubs, as im fed up buying a front and a rear, and eneding up with loads of rears. Can anyone tell me if the ackerman will be the same please.
Cheers Malc
They will work. Just use the forward hole on the steering block. That will be very close to the typical position we use on the HB knuckles.

-Korey
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:21 PM
  #18621  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
They will work. Just use the forward hole on the steering block. That will be very close to the typical position we use on the HB knuckles.

-Korey
Thanks for the quick reply are the hubs on the 008 009 and T2 the same? Do the Tamiya ones fit to?
Cheers Malc
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:08 PM
  #18622  
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Default Lipo Upper Deck

Any ideas on the handling differences of the Lipo Deck when compared to the TC top Deck or even the Hara Top Deck.. I was thinking of getting the Lipo Deck but if it handling is worst then the other two decks then I won't bother..

I see some of the top drivers still use the older top decks..
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:11 PM
  #18623  
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan
This has probably been asked before, but has anyone tried using the Xray front hubs, as im fed up buying a front and a rear, and eneding up with loads of rears. Can anyone tell me if the ackerman will be the same please.
Cheers Malc
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
They will work. Just use the forward hole on the steering block. That will be very close to the typical position we use on the HB knuckles.

-Korey
Have you tried using the Pro4 arms (no mod's needed)? They are more durable than the TC arms.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:54 PM
  #18624  
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan
Thanks for the quick reply are the hubs on the 008 009 and T2 the same? Do the Tamiya ones fit to?
Cheers Malc
T2, 08 and 09 are the same. Not sure about the tamiya parts, I just remember I was in a bind one time and I grabbed a xray steering knuckle and it worked fine.

-Korey
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:57 PM
  #18625  
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Originally Posted by san.
Have you tried using the Pro4 arms (no mod's needed)? They are more durable than the TC arms.
Malc is talking about the steering knuckle. They are the same between all the cyclone cars and the pro 4. But you are correct, the pro 4 suspension arms are much more durable. They are just a bit heavy.

-Korey
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:15 PM
  #18626  
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Korey, Hiro and everyone else at HB, please do not forget us, the "foam guys" with this new release. Hope you guys follow Xray, T.O.P. and AE with their US Spec versions. Or at least thicker upper and mid decks with wings.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:17 AM
  #18627  
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Speaking of...

Does anyone need a foam chassis, upper deck and mid deck? I have a set I purchased a while ago when foam tire racing was still popular here. I don't use it anymore and would rather someone else benefit from it. PM me for details.

-Korey
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:56 AM
  #18628  
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Im having trouble with ride height. Im using the pro4 pink front and silver rear springs.

Now my problem is having set the pre-load of the springs equally, my ride height is off. In order to attain equal ride height left to right my pre-load is off.
I am unsure if balancing weights are needed because it seems I will need allot to balance out the lipo side of the car.

What is the proper way to solve this? Is it ok the have the shock collars off in order the get equal ride hieght?
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:49 AM
  #18629  
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Hi everyone, I just want to share my Cyclone setup for the recent TITC race. A few guys asked me, so I thought I post it here, to share with all fellow Cyclone racers.

I qualified 2nd and finished 3rd at TITC 11.5T class. This setup works especially well when the track is very hot as I TQed the controlled practice round when the track was at 65 degree C. I also TQed one of the qualifying when the track was cooler, around 50 degree C. During the 3rd round qualifying at night where the track temp was around 36 degree C, I was already leading but I crashed due to my own mistake. The car worked very well, that run could have given me the overall TQ if I didn't crash. Therefore I think this setup should work pretty consistently at most track temps and conditions.

My setup is exactly as the instructions manual, except for the followings:

-- Silver Springs at front and rear. I did run softer springs in the early rounds, but as the grip increased, I had to switch to slightly harder springs.
-- 55 weight Associated oil front and rear.
-- Shocks mounted on #3 holes at front and rear shock towers.
-- 3 mm ackerman washers.
-- 1.5 mm shims under all suspension blocks
-- WCE top deck, uncut
-- Gold sway bar at the rear end.
-- Titanium Racing Delrin spool at the front.
-- HB DCJ at the front.
-- Protoform R9-R body regular weight body, with wing pushed forward 3 mm from the max rearward position allowed by IFMAR.
-- I used a traction compound custom made by a Thai friend. We joked and called the traction ParaPraey because his name is Praey
-- Car weight was at 1450 grams. I pushed the battery pack outward to a point where the CG of both sides are approx the same. Basically, I added some weight to the battery packs so that the total weight at both sides of the car were exactly the same, then push the battery pack outward to make the CGs of both sides the same distance from the centerline. I believe this could make the car more balanced statically, and also dynamically.
-- SMC 5400 50C lipo
-- LRP SXX Stock Spec ESC
-- Controlled motors = SP V3 11.5T with some timing advanced fixed on the end bell.
-- Controlled tires = Ride RJ 36

This setup should work well with tires with lower grip on asphalt tracks, such as the Ride tires. With better tires such as Sorex or Much More that can produce more steering and response, I would probably use slightly heavier springs and shock oil all around, 0.5 mm shim under the inner rear link, and LTCR body.

I have to thank Hara for his tips, which made my car drove more consistent and therefore faster overall. He is a true master with real wisdoms.

I hope this setup helps you go faster

Last edited by andrew188; 03-03-2010 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:49 AM
  #18630  
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Great job Andrew and thanks for sharing the setup!
I'm very glad that the cyclone TC was one of the fastest cars on the track in stock class too.
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